Wenol vs. Simichrome

[pen2paper]

Yes, I read the article, but what's done is done and I have more important things to concern myself with.

 

I appreciate the warnings, and probably won't use RW again on my more valuable pens, but won't lose any sleep over it.....they're only pens (Is that heresy?)

no..you own your pens, and may use them for recreation at the local pub as darts, if you wish.

 

my perspective is slightly different.. I own (caretake) pieces (non-pen items) from many old collections.. I 'm currently reviewing an inherited collection, developed by a formal study society founder in this field, 70+ years ago.. unlike many pieces found 'out in the wild' there is very little destruction.. HOWEVER.. and yes that's a shout.. Exactly as David is presenting here..we're just beginning to know/are learning about the varied materials, how the compositions hold up over time, in different environments, and specifically to This discussion, how Their "Caretakers" usage, storage, Cleaning practices affected them. Collectors of years past used a variety of mounting storage methods, [unfortunatly Some used acidic boards, with moisture wicking mounting devices], specifically, as in this well-cared for collection:Very little cleaning...& The dry, dark, storage, Avoiding MIXED materials is key to their longevity.

This collection, though correctly divided By Material is seeing roughly less than 1% damage.. The few mixed material trays are showing the beginninings/progression of Significant Severe damage. (some pieces once photo'd are imediately pulled out) IOWs.. we both agreed that Now was the time to open up this collection, document As IS, then as inertly, minimally as possible, clean, then remount on inert archival materials.. The original Collector would be thrilled to know that the many years of intense labor has gone into the hands of this inheritor, and it's being cared for with such care... even 10 years ago, it would likely have been flitzed/simichromed/409'd/tumbled/dremeled/Marine rustremovered to early death.. Now, it will continue to educate serious collectors for the years to come...as She fully intended. There are Study boxes which, in great detail, Teach.. what a Thrill to view these items!!!

Btw, one is a mongramed (maiden name too!), late 19thC Silver retracting pencil, on its original grosgrain ribbon!!! which she used to notate the entire collection:D*

My this lenthy Thing is on one gulp of am coffee.. Roger not at all ranting at you..just that you mentioned your daughters.. pray that it be multiple healthful decades, far in the future.. but the day your daughters become the caretakers of your pens, my perspective hopes they will be in such good conditon that they will be enjoyed by Their aprreciative inheritors as well:)

But you May use them as darts, which will make for some interesting history, if not an interesting repair project for a future restoration expert

Best to All..and your "Stuff"

* FPNer's would have enjoyed the moment when I spied the pencil, The inheritor said I don't have a clue what This Is...

my eyes went wide, I lept up, and said!!! It's a silver retractible pen/pencil!! wait!~ it's her maiden name initials~! what! year was she married?! which dated many things exactingly! We're hoping to find a photo with her wearing the pencil while working on her collection. or even with the pencil stucked in a pocket but the ribbon showing! I have a photo(s) to share here.. I need to find out what pencil leads fit it, and how they are inserted, as she would like to make new notations on the recarded items with the same pencil!

Edited February 2, 2010 by pen2paper

[islandlife]

I followed this up with Mothers 100% carnauba wax.

I don't recommend carnauba wax; it is universally eschewed by curators and conservationists due to the acids that can be produced which can attack the object.

 

--Daniel

I have taken your advice after having the following experience. I noticed small ink marks on the body two of my vintage pens in the area underneath the caps. Some ink had wicked its way from the inner cap to the pen body. When I tried to remove the ink with just plain water it did not come off. I became worried that the pen was stained. However, it did come off easily with plastic polish. This seems to indicate that the ink was not repelled by the wax but was absorbed by it. That would be contrary to what I thought would have happened. In any case I have discontinued its use.

[Vintagepens]

Wow, this is wonderful! Will the hard rubber polish result in hard rubber which has really been de-oxidised(oxidation process reversed)?

 

Sorry, no magic wands here.

When materials deteriorate, it's usually a one-way street. The more complex the structure of the material, the more true this is. When the deterioration is superficial, as it generally is with hard rubber, one has more options for treatment -- but don't for a moment think you'll ever be able to put Humpty together again.

 

Treatment options basically fall into two classes. The first is stabilization -- which in the case of hard rubber, would ideally involve extraction of moisture and sealing of the surface to prevent further moisture intake. The second involves removal of the oxidized surface, whether mechanically or chemically, or through a combination of both.

 

Just sticking a hard rubber pen on a buffing wheel is less than ideal, because mechanical removal alone is very hard on imprints and chasing, not to mention edges and trim. Soaking in bleach or degreaser is also not optimal, since these agents are very aggressive in stripping the surface away, sometimes too far -- not to mention the issue of residue. What we are offering is a nontoxic hand polish that is optimized for removal of superficial oxidation with minimum abrasion. For real museum pieces, it may not always be the treatment of choice, but for ordinary articles, it is head and shoulders above the metal polishes now in common use.

[significantpass]

Wow, this is wonderful! Will the hard rubber polish result in hard rubber which has really been de-oxidised(oxidation process reversed)?

 

Sorry, no magic wands here.

When materials deteriorate, it's usually a one-way street. The more complex the structure of the material, the more true this is. When the deterioration is superficial, as it generally is with hard rubber, one has more options for treatment -- but don't for a moment think you'll ever be able to put Humpty together again.

 

Treatment options basically fall into two classes. The first is stabilization -- which in the case of hard rubber, would ideally involve extraction of moisture and sealing of the surface to prevent further moisture intake. The second involves removal of the oxidized surface, whether mechanically or chemically, or through a combination of both.

 

Just sticking a hard rubber pen on a buffing wheel is less than ideal, because mechanical removal alone is very hard on imprints and chasing, not to mention edges and trim. Soaking in bleach or degreaser is also not optimal, since these agents are very aggressive in stripping the surface away, sometimes too far -- not to mention the issue of residue. What we are offering is a nontoxic hand polish that is optimized for removal of superficial oxidation with minimum abrasion. For real museum pieces, it may not always be the treatment of choice, but for ordinary articles, it is head and shoulders above the metal polishes now in common use.

I was kind of hoping for some of this magic. Sigh. What ways are there to stabilise oxidation? I live in a very humid country, you see.