In for a dime...

[Bluto Carpaccio]

Hello, Good Folks,

 

The pictures are of my first project. Can anyone steer me to what tools, supplies, and parts I'll need to get it in working order? Thanks, Bluto

[nyawn]

Hello, Good Folks,

 

The pictures are of my first project. Can anyone steer me to what tools, supplies, and parts I'll need to get it in working order? Thanks, Bluto

 

Filling system:

I don't recognize the model, but I'm assuming it's lever-fill? If not, disregard everything I say here. You'll need a replacement sac, standard latex is probably best - I don't know what size, so I suggest getting several sizes and testing them in the actual pen. You'll need shellac to secure the sac, and talc to lubricate it. You'll probably also need something to scrape the old sac out of the pen barrel, and maybe something to heat the barrel if it won't move when the pen is cold - a hair dryer may work, don't use anything more powerful (could melt the plastic), and don't use hot water (may discolor the plastic). A sac spreader / tweezers is optional, you may or may not find it helpful. You may also want a small, strong flashlight to get a good look down into the barrel.

 

Aesthetics:

If you want to smooth out the small scratches, I suggest 800, 1500, and 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then finish with a few applications of polish - I like Tryphon celluloid polish, but there are other good options. I suggest doing it all by hand, so no tools here. Note that if you polish without sanding, you'll just make shiny scratches. Use masking tape so you don't sand what's left of the gold plating off of the trim.

 

Gold-plated trim:

I think most people either don't touch this, or send it to a pro. Home DIY electroplating kits are available, but I've never used one or seen results.

 

Nib:

I can't tell if the tipping on the nib is complete. If it's not, then your best option is to buy a replacement (you'll want a knockout block and mallet to do the replacement, unless it's a screw-out nib as on an Esterbrook, Osmiroid, etc.) If the tipping is OK, then your best tool for adjustment is your own fingers. Assuming the nib needs adjustment, you'll want a good magnifier or jeweler's loupe; 10x is standard, but I'd prefer something stronger. If the tines are straight and it's still scratchy, you might try some mylar smoothing/polishing paper in the neighborhood of 1 or 0.3 micron grit.

 

[WendyNC]

I'm of no help whatsoever, but I love the colors. Have you identified the maker/model of the pen?

[jack852]

It looks like you have mold on the pen. You will need to disinfect the entire pen, including the inside of the cap. There are threads on the board on this. I think Richard binder has an article on his site on this as well.

 

If you don't disinfect, you will likely have the problem again in the future and you could pass it onto other pens that you share ink with (from a bottle). You want to do this right.

 

I had Richard Binder take care of one of mine with a mold problem.

 

 

 

[pen2paper]

Parker is what I'm seeing???

[Seville]

Ok ...Parker Burgundy/Black Special or Moderne I think.

 

If it is a button filler then it should be a Duofold.

 

Philip

[sumgaikid]

Your pen is an early 1930's Parker Duofold in red and black marble. There is

a black blind cap on the bottom of the pen,so it's a button filler. Not sure if that's

mold on the nib(since it's upside down,can't tell if that's the original Duofold

nib);it may just be dirt. Not sure what you paid for it,but to get the parts and

tools necessary that one member suggested could make your project expensive.

You might be better off sending it to a pen restorer to have it put in good writing

shape.

 

 

John

[OcalaFlGuy]

In my nOOb opinion, getting it in good writing condition is one thing, fixing the cosmetics is something else. The worst issue to me the heavily brassed

hardware. There are reproduction clips but that won't do you much good without having the cap bands professionally replated. There are only a couple

of people who specialize in doing that on pens and they are ($) proud of their work (most likely with due reason). You could try one of the home plating options bur I suspect that is a temporary "throwing good money after bad" solution.

 

Possibly you best cheapest option would be to contact some of the most well known restorers in the hopes they might have replacement furniture parts that are in better shape (though maybe not primo still) than yours.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[sumgaikid]

In my nOOb opinion, getting it in good writing condition is one thing, fixing the cosmetics is something else. The worst issue to me the heavily brassed

hardware. There are reproduction clips but that won't do you much good without having the cap bands professionally replated. There are only a couple

of people who specialize in doing that on pens and they are ($) proud of their work (most likely with due reason). You could try one of the home plating options bur I suspect that is a temporary "throwing good money after bad" solution.

 

Possibly you best cheapest option would be to contact some of the most well known restorers in the hopes they might have replacement furniture parts that are in better shape (though maybe not primo still) than yours.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

 

 

Bruce,he might be able to find a decent washer clip to replace the one that is there,

but from where I'm looking that 2nd capband would need replating or replacing and

the chances are good that it would be far easier to replate the original band than to

find one even remotely like it. Still then,as you state,it's going to take $$$.

 

 

John

 

[OldGriz]

Aesthetics:

If you want to smooth out the small scratches, I suggest 800, 1500, and 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then finish with a few applications of polish - I like Tryphon celluloid polish, but there are other good options. I suggest doing it all by hand, so no tools here. Note that if you polish without sanding, you'll just make shiny scratches. Use masking tape so you don't sand what's left of the gold plating off of the trim.

 

Your pen appears to be a Duofold Jr... very nice button fill pens that are relatively easy to restore.

DO NOT use sandpaper on your pen.... If the scratches are real deep, best leave them alone... if you are talking about lighter surface scratches your best bet is to use micromesh pads (available from Tryphon) and use them wet, not dry to get an even finish.... follow this by some polish and carnuba wax also from Tryphon

You should not have to knock out the nib and feed UNLESS the nib or feed is damaged or very badly clogged...

Start with an overnight soak in a 10% non-sudsing ammonia and cool water solution followed by clear water flush.. you might have to do that 2-3 times...

If this does not work, buy some technical pen cleaner from your local hobby shop... it is used to break down india ink and will clean any remaining ink it can get to...

 

As for tools, all you need is a heat source (NOT OPEN FLAME or BOILING WATER) to heat the barrel so you can take off the section, a new sac, something to cut the sac and some shellac...

Everything else you should be able to do with your fingers.. There are no special tools required to restore a button filler...

As for the gold trim.... if this is going to be a user pen, don't worry about it.... re-plating can be done by Daniel Kirshheimer, but it is not inexpensive... and unless the body is really nice IMO not worth it...

Fix the pen, write with it and enjoy your restoration experience...

Worst case scenario, if you decide it is too much for you there are a few professional restorers, including myself, on FPN who can to this work

 

This is what your pen can look like when it is done IF you take your time and are careful

 

Edited September 1, 2009 by OldGriz

[OldGriz]

It looks like you have mold on the pen. You will need to disinfect the entire pen, including the inside of the cap. There are threads on the board on this. I think Richard binder has an article on his site on this as well.

 

If you don't disinfect, you will likely have the problem again in the future and you could pass it onto other pens that you share ink with (from a bottle). You want to do this right.

 

I had Richard Binder take care of one of mine with a mold problem.

 

 

WHERE... I see what looks like some fluff stuck between the tines.. but nothing that looks like mold...

[grimakis]

It looks like you have mold on the pen. You will need to disinfect the entire pen, including the inside of the cap. There are threads on the board on this. I think Richard binder has an article on his site on this as well.

 

If you don't disinfect, you will likely have the problem again in the future and you could pass it onto other pens that you share ink with (from a bottle). You want to do this right.

 

I had Richard Binder take care of one of mine with a mold problem.

 

 

WHERE... I see what looks like some fluff stuck between the tines.. but nothing that looks like mold...

 

Agreed, mold simply doesn't settle down in the tipping area. If it were infected with mold, it would be fluffy all through the slit, and most likely emerging from the feed channels.

[rsilver000]

It is going to be a user grade pen anyway so polish up the bands as best as possible and coat them with a very thin layer of clear coat to seal. That way they will not tarnish back to square one. They may strip down to the silver colored base coat and lose the gold wash but it will probably look better that way if they are both uniform in color instead of being a mix of gold and silver,

Rob

[Bluto Carpaccio]

Hello, Good Folks,

 

The pictures are of my first project. Can anyone steer me to what tools, supplies, and parts I'll need to get it in working order? Thanks, Bluto

 

 

Yes, early 30's Duofold (I think). $49. Am floored by all the responses. Very, very helpful. My only local input was "Tools? Get a shovel!" Thanks to you all. I'm going to try to do it myself, hopefully well enough to return it to respectability. I think that's paper tuft caught in the nib. I'll post before and after pics and a narrative if anyone wants. Thanks again.

 

Semper Fi, Griz

[OldGriz]

Hello, Good Folks,

 

The pictures are of my first project. Can anyone steer me to what tools, supplies, and parts I'll need to get it in working order? Thanks, Bluto

 

 

Yes, early 30's Duofold (I think). $49. Am floored by all the responses. Very, very helpful. My only local input was "Tools? Get a shovel!" Thanks to you all. I'm going to try to do it myself, hopefully well enough to return it to respectability. I think that's paper tuft caught in the nib. I'll post before and after pics and a narrative if anyone wants. Thanks again.

 

Semper Fi, Griz

 

Just let us know if we can help any more...

 

Sempi Fi ????? I ain't no damn jarhead :roflmho: I was a Navy SEAL.. you know the guys who save the jarheads when they get in trouble

[Bluto Carpaccio]

Hello, Good Folks,

 

The pictures are of my first project. Can anyone steer me to what tools, supplies, and parts I'll need to get it in working order? Thanks, Bluto

 

 

Yes, early 30's Duofold (I think). $49. Am floored by all the responses. Very, very helpful. My only local input was "Tools? Get a shovel!" Thanks to you all. I'm going to try to do it myself, hopefully well enough to return it to respectability. I think that's paper tuft caught in the nib. I'll post before and after pics and a narrative if anyone wants. Thanks again.

 

Semper Fi, Griz

 

Just let us know if we can help any more...

 

Sempi Fi ????? I ain't no damn jarhead :roflmho: I was a Navy SEAL.. you know the guys who save the jarheads when they get in trouble

 

 

Here's a better picture of the nib. Says "diamond point, iridium." Can't find any info. Is it a Parker nib at all?

 

 

 

 

Force recon, An Hoa -- you know, those guys they send to save the fish breaths...oh, and infantry grunt, too - you know, those guys that go looking for a fight...

 

[OldGriz]

Here's a better picture of the nib. Says "diamond point, iridium." Can't find any info. Is it a Parker nib at all?

 

 

 

 

Force recon, An Hoa -- you know, those guys they send to save the fish breaths...oh, and infantry grunt, too - you know, those guys that go looking for a fight...

 

Unfortunately it is not a Parker nib.... a replacement Parker nib is going to go in the neighborhood of $35 or so....

 

LOL, Ain't inter-service teasing fun..... Semper Fi Brother...

South East Asia Yacht Club 1970-73

[Bluto Carpaccio]

Thanks, Griz. Buy you a beer sometime?

[OldGriz]

Thanks, Griz. Buy you a beer sometime?

 

Diet Coke... Doc says no more beer and booze... damned diabetes... :roflmho:

You ever get to the Columbus or Raleigh Pen Shows look me up...

[Bluto Carpaccio]

Thanks, Griz. Buy you a beer sometime?

 

Diet Coke... Doc says no more beer and booze... damned diabetes... :roflmho:

You ever get to the Columbus or Raleigh Pen Shows look me up...

 

 

Will do. You ever get to New Mexico (ABQ or Santa Fe) give me a holler. BTW, doc said I was boderline diabetic and soon to be - runs in the family. Started a breakfast of a BIG plate of fish, potatotes, and brocolli or other greens every morning, anything I want for lunch, nothing but salad for dinner. Lost 30 pounds easy and way back in the safe zone. With a little olive oil, cajun seaoning, not as bad as it sounds and certainly better than ham and mothe....

 

Take care, Bluto