HEAT GUNS

[BenMawhorter]

Hey There, I am interested in getting a heat gun that will provide attachments for focused micro-use applications.....such as getting sections from pens. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,Ben

[Ron Z]

Several of us, that is professional repair guys, use a little heat gun sold by AC Moore. It's identical to the one sold by Giovanni at Tryphon. The heat gun is used for embossing, and is priced at $28. With their coupon, you can buy it for a heck of a lot less.

 

Single temperature, you vary the temperature applied to the pen by moving the pen away from the outlet. The opening is about 1/2" in diameter, so focused enough that you can use it for all applications. It says that the gun is 650 degrees, but I've measured the temperature, and it falls off rapidly as you move away from the outlet.

 

I've literally worn out one of these heat guns, and am well into the second one in the shop. I have a temperature controlled heat gun by Steinel, and never use it. Richard gave his away. The big fancy heat guns just aren't needed.

 

This link will take you to the AC Moore web page to look at the gun. Similar ones are sold by other craft stores.

 

fixed the spelling error

Edited June 29, 2009 by Ron Z

[BenMawhorter]

Thanks Ron, You Rock!

Several of us, that is professional repair guys, use a little heat gun sole by AC Moore. It's identical to the one sold by Giovanni at Tryphon. The heat gun is used for embossing, and is priced at $28. With their coupon, you can buy it for a heck of a lot less.

 

Single temperature, you vary the temperature applied to the pen by moving the pen away from the outlet. The opening is about 1/2" in diameter, so focused enough that you can use it for all applications. It says that the gun is 650 degrees, but I've measured the temperature, and it falls off rapidly as you move away from the outlet.

 

I've literally worn out one of these heat guns, and am well into the second one in the shop. I have a temperature controlled heat gun by Steinel, and never use it. Richard gave his away. The big fancy heat guns just aren't needed.

 

This link will take you to the AC Moore web page to look at the gun. Similar ones are sold by other craft stores.

[Kelly G]

Several of us, that is professional repair guys, use a little heat gun sole by AC Moore. It's identical to the one sold by Giovanni at Tryphon. The heat gun is used for embossing, and is priced at $28. With their coupon, you can buy it for a heck of a lot less.

 

Single temperature, you vary the temperature applied to the pen by moving the pen away from the outlet. The opening is about 1/2" in diameter, so focused enough that you can use it for all applications. It says that the gun is 650 degrees, but I've measured the temperature, and it falls off rapidly as you move away from the outlet.

 

I've literally worn out one of these heat guns, and am well into the second one in the shop. I have a temperature controlled heat gun by Steinel, and never use it. Richard gave his away. The big fancy heat guns just aren't needed.

 

This link will take you to the AC Moore web page to look at the gun. Similar ones are sold by other craft stores.

 

While I highly admire Ron's experience, restoration abilities, and willingness to share, on this particular topic I would like to respectfully offer a differing opinion.

 

Ron, Richard, and the other professional restorers have more pens go through their hands in a week than most of us will see and mess with in a year or several years or maybe at all. Because of that level of experience, they develop a finely tuned feel for the materials of the various pens. This allows for a real sense of how much applied torque and temperature is sufficient for the particular task and thus fewer mistakes.

 

The heat gun Ron mentions and those like it are handy and cheap. But, and this is the crux of the issue, they get way too hot for most if not all pen related repairs. Sure, you can compensate for that by moving the material away from the heat source, but that assumes a fairly well developed feel for the work. This is same method used for compensating for temperature from an open flame source, which was the absolute standard for pen repair in the not too distant past. The less expensive heat guns will work just fine, if (a big if) you know what you're doing with a degree of precision that comes only with sufficient experience.

 

IMHO and for my repair work I much prefer an adjustable heat source that allows me to set the limit on how much heat I'm applying to the material. I use a Sears Craftsman Industrial heat gun that has a low temperature around 120 degrees and a max temp way beyond anything I will ever need for pens, unless I decide to torch them all someday. The gun isn't cheap, but it's saved me a great deal of pain and suffering. I know that to be true because using a different gun early in my repair efforts I managed to melt down two or three pens; that really hurt. This model comes with several nozzles to help focus the heat and it sets upright on the bench for hands free work. I've used mine for over six years without experiencing any heat related failures.

 

While the cheaper, non-adjustable guns are fine for experienced hands, the only difference between those models and an alcohol lamp is a matter of degree.

I prefer tighter control for my less frequent adventures with pen repair.

 

No matter what heat source you decide to use, here are two critical bits of advice that I don't believe are debatable:

 

1. Practice, practice, practice - on junk pens of the lowest value - develop feel for the materials before working on pens you care about.

2. A small, fairly accurate thermometer is useful for you to know the temperatures you're dealing with. Some materials are very unforgiving to slight increases in temperature. It's not hard to check the temperatures and thus know for sure what you're doing. Until you develop sufficient "feel", use a thermometer.

 

 

Good luck with your pens.

[Johnny Appleseed]

I would also like to second some of what Kelly said, and really emphasize the point about heat control.

 

I too have one of the embossing heat guns, and use it frequently. However, I badly melted the first pen I ever tried it on.

 

Do not hold a pen more than 6" in front of the mouth of the heat gun. Do not hold it closer than that until you have gained extensive experience with using the heatgun.

 

A variable-temperature heat gun it probably a better choice, but if you are going to use one of the cheaper heatguns, distance is your best friend.

 

John

[BenMawhorter]

TRULY I AM NOT WORTHY!! I appreciate the great advice and multiple opinions. I think the best bet is to entrust my pen to the hands of an expert....Thanks,Ben

 

I would also like to second some of what Kelly said, and really emphasize the point about heat control.

 

I too have one of the embossing heat guns, and use it frequently. However, I badly melted the first pen I ever tried it on.

 

Do not hold a pen more than 6" in front of the mouth of the heat gun. Do not hold it closer than that until you have gained extensive experience with using the heatgun.

 

A variable-temperature heat gun it probably a better choice, but if you are going to use one of the cheaper heatguns, distance is your best friend.

 

John

[ngc2632]

I haven't repaired a huge number of pens, but I have used a heat gun exactly as Ron described. Having smoked the edge of an old Vac I used for training purposes, I quickly learned when to stop applying heat.

 

Using a multimeter equipped with a contact pyrometer, I measured the temperature of the heat gun's output to be around 650°F at the nozzle, and around 250°F at 4" from the nozzle.

 

I found that I could safely heat the pen if I QUICKLY rolled it between my thumb and forefinger, waving it in and out of the heat, exposing it for no more than 8-10 seconds at a time. I would repeat this procedure until I brought the pen up to temperature.

 

Initially I checked the heated area with an IR thermometer and also touched the area with my fingers, and (once I got used to it) the edge of my lips. I found that "too hot to touch" was around 150°F, confirmed by the thermometer. Now I just use touch or lips. If it's beginning to feel too hot to touch, I stop.

 

No matter what procedure or kind of heat gun you use, make sure your setup is safe and you have a backup plan (ie., a way to cool the pen should you overdo it).

 

That's my procedure. I'm hoping some of the professional guys here will add their comments.

 

David

Edited June 29, 2009 by ngc2632

[Ron Z]

Exactly.

 

If you set your heat gun at 120 degrees, you really don't have enough heat to to release thread sealants, or a stuck barrel. Nor do you have enough heat to set a hard rubber feed. I usually work at a distance of 3 to 4 inches from the heat gun.

 

I've tried the larger heat guns, and also the Steinel regulated temperature heat gun. Neither worked nearly as well as the small heat gun, which is why we use them. I actually find the larger heat guns to be more dangerous. With the small gun, the heat is more focused, and if you move about 4 inches away from the outlet, you should be fine.

 

Remember that I have always said that when you use a heat gun, you have to keep checking to see how hot your pen is to prevent damage. (see my article on "Seeing With Your Fingers"). The fault lies not with the heat source, but with the operator. The operator can learn......

[Kelly G]

Ron,

I certainly wouldn't question your use of whatever heat source you choose to use - you use it daily I would guess. For myself, I prefer a more controlled source, given I don't use it daily - lately, not even weekly.

 

As a matter of clarity, I didn't suggest that 120 degrees is good for much of anything, that just happens to be the bottom end of the Craftsman gun. I typically set it at 145 to 150 degrees for section removal and insertion. I go up to 165 degrees for some materials, if the section is particularly stubborn. Setting a feed requires more temperature as does working with hard rubber, but the material can stand those higher temps without fear of combustion.

 

The nozzle I use on the Craftsman is quite sufficient to focus the air flow and as I said, I've not broken or melted a pen since I started using this gun. So, I'm merely stating what works for me.

 

As to the operator learning - I couldn't agree more, it's what we destroy in the process that's troubling. I just find it better for my level and volume of repairs to use a heat source that helps me stay out of trouble - even though over the last eight years I've developed a well calibrated "feel".

 

If I was working on a high volume of pens, I'm sure I would explore using the smaller gun, which allows for faster work and a smaller bench footprint.

 

 

[Possum Hill]

As other posters have already said, practice is necessary if you want good results from a heat gun, or just about any heat source, whether you're working on pens or bending PVC conduit.

 

I suggest cutting up a heavy polyethylene bucket or something similar into strips for practice pieces to heat and bend and twist. It will help you get a feel for how your heat source works. Most people have a bunch of free BP pens that won't write -- heating, possibly to destruction, is a good use for them. Keep a metal bucket nearby in case of excessive gooey-ness or even ignition.

 

For fun, polyester (PETE) bottles, and sometimes their labels, can be heated and you can see where the "hot" is by how the plastic acts.

[Vintagepens]

To each their own.

For my part, I must agree wholeheartedly with Kelly G.

My standby is also a Sears variable-temp heat gun.

I stopped accepting outside repair work over ten years ago, but I probably do as much pen repair as anyone in the business -- around 1000 pens a year, going back to the early '90s (I worked on pens for years before, at a substantially lower volume). I am fully capable of using a single-temp heat gun, or open flame for that matter. I choose not to, however, for the same reason that I don't use a sledgehammer for fine carpentry.

 

When I use my heat gun, I like to be able to put a pen right over the nozzle, for maximum control of what gets heated and what doesn't. Most often the workpiece is almost touching the nozzle. That way I can apply heat to an area just a half-inch across or so -- simply not possible when holding a workpiece four inches above a heat source.

[Ron Z]

This is one of those areas where the experts disagree - and when the fun discussions start when we get together. But both techniques work.....

[Kelly G]

One thing I think we can all agree: There is nothing quite so exciting (on the pen repair bench) as a smoking and soon to be flaming celluloid pen barrel! No matter the heat source, too much is too much. One thing Frank was definitely right about - a pan of water handy when heating celluloid is a good thing.

 

FWIW - I have a 40+ year old lawn sprinkling system which is primarily constructed of polyethylene pipe. I would much prefer PVC, but that's another story. I've found the adjustable heat gun to be most useful when making the inevitable repairs to this old system. Heating the poly pipe before inserting a barbed fitting makes life so much simpler. It's the same principle as relaxing a pen barrel but usually done staring down into a hole with mud up to your elbows. Thank goodness the Sears gun is nearly indestructible! I would guess the embossing gun would work as well but I'm not sure about the alcohol lamp!

[Ron Z]

Very true Kelly.

 

This is one of those areas where there are going to be disagreements in tools and or techniques. We work with something, and stick with it because it's what we're most comfortable with. I don't even like changing hand tools, because I know how something feels when I use it, and trust what I feel.

 

I used a hair dryer for years, then went to a heat gun when it was suggested that the longer exposure to the lower temperature heat could damage the plastic of the pen. But I went with the small heat gun because I just didn't feel at all comfortable (and still don't) with the larger, generic heat gun. I found the Steinel to be too big and cumbersome to use.

 

No matter tool what you use, there will be a learning curve. But we do agree - no open flame. If we ever meet, I'll tell you my story about what convinced me! I tried open flame precisely one time. NEVER again!

[Vintagepens]

I used a hair dryer for years, then went to a heat gun when it was suggested that the longer exposure to the lower temperature heat could damage the plastic of the pen.

Actually, all evidence I've seen suggests that it's the maximum temperature that is more the worry when it comes to plastics deterioration. That is, better to expose it to a slightly lower temperature for a longer time than to a higher temperature for a shorter period of time.

[Ron Z]

Actually, all evidence I've seen suggests that it's the maximum temperature that is more the worry when it comes to plastics deterioration. That is, better to expose it to a slightly lower temperature for a longer time than to a higher temperature for a shorter period of time.

 

Interesting. I'd be interested in reading the technical data if you can provide a link to the source.

 

While I'm not advocating maximum temperature, the information that I got from the person whom I know to be pretty reliable was in favor of higher temperatures for a shorter period, and not just because you get the pen apart sooner.

[qpens]

I just stumbled on this thread, and have read it with interest. I've always used a Steinel Air Gun and have been very happy with it. I bought it because Susan Wirth recommended it to me, probably 20 years ago or more. I didn't know about the Craftsman heat gun, but am interested in taking a look at it when I need to replace the Steinel. One can purchase different "tips/nozzles" for the Steinel and I have two different ones.. One nozzle concentrates the heat through a small opening, but the one that I use almost exclusively is a "U" shaped one that circulates the air around the pen, I'd guess, somewhat evenly. The gun that I have only has small LED lights that show approximate temperature. I know that the newer ones come with digital readouts...which, I'd think, are probably more accurate.

 

I agree with everyone, that it takes a while to sense the "correct" temperature at which a section will release from the barrel. IMHO, that comes with time and experience. Yes...start off with some "junkers" until you get a good feel for the process.

 

I don't sit over the bench for hours at a time anymore, since I gave up doing repairs for the "public" to finally work on my own pens...but, I've never had a problem with the height of the the Steinel. As they say...different strokes...and, I guess "there are always more ways to skin a cat"...or remove a section. Just my take...

 

Michael Quitt

www.charmcitypens.com

Edited July 25, 2012 by qpens

[Marlow]

As a plebeian newbie (but very enthusiastic! lol!) at pen repairs, I noticed several instances of repairers advising the use of a hairdryer. I acquired a tiny Remington example, used, for the princely sum of £5, and have already used it successfully to dismantle and re-assemble about 30 sections. Within a couple of inches from the quite small hot air outlet it seems to get very hot indeed whereas around 3-4inches away the heat appears manageable. Rotating the pen constantly in the hot air and taking the temperature of the plastic with fingers only, I have been able to shift sections comfortably that absolutely would not budge before heating.

 

I wonder whether I am likely to run into situations in which this heat source no longer proves sufficiently effective?!

 

:hmm1:

[Ron Z]

You should be OK for most repairs, and I have recommended them for the amateur, but there are times when a hair dryer simply is not sufficient.