Which Could Be My Next Pen?

[AMlines]

One reason why the Plaisir is so often recommended for new pen users is that it really is very good value compared to most fountain pen options; a $100 pen is not at all guaranteed to offer more than the Plaisir. To be clear I'm not saying that there aren't $100 pens that are better, just that being $100 is no guarantee.

 

Another reason is that there's very little to not like about the Plaisir (other than aesthetics perhaps). Many pens have shaped sections (hourglass, triangular etc) that some people will like and some people won't, some people prefer skinny pens and some girthy ones, some people dislike smooth metal sections, and there's nice grip materials out there (ebonite, soft rubber, celluloid, even wood). But the Plaisir's straight plastic average-diameter grip should be acceptable to most people. Some people prefer heavy pens and some don't, but most people can comfortably handle a reasonably light pen like the Plaisir. Another thing is that some people (like myself) like to grip pens quite close to the nib, and therefore pens that don't let you do that (because of larger nibs or threads just above the nib etc) can be uncomfortable. The Plaisir has a small nib and long section that give you a lot of freedom in where to position your hand.

 

Basically the Plaisir is OK for most people. That's not to say it can't be bettered; far from it. It's just that it's a safe bet.

 

That's mostly my experience with the Plaisir It just works.

 

There's a lot of pricier pens that some people love, but that don't work for others for personal reasons. I hear a lot of people talk about how much they prefer #6 nibs to #5s for example, but #6 nibs are too long for me so I've come to avoid them. I don't post the cap when writing, but some people won't use a pen if they can't post the cap.

 

Can you elaborate on the technical aspects of nibs a bit? The Plaisir has a F 03. Other than aesthetic issues do nib sizes make a significant difference to the writing experience?

 

What happens as we move from the small and short nib of the Lamy 2000 to much bigger and longer ones, say, in the 3776 Century?

 

Again, I see that the Plaisir nib size seems to be an in-between and I feel I won't take to much larger/longer nibs. The Lamy would be ideal, but I know I won't enjoy the tapering grips and body shape.

 

 

So a $100 pen might be a huge improvement for you if it happens to have the features that are just right for you, or might not if it doesn't. My impression is that you start to get diminishing returns as far as pure function goes once you start to get past around $50, but you might get specific features (ergonomics, materials, filling systems, aesthetics) that appeal to you that you might not find for cheaper.

 

Got it. Now I know how to parse through the $100 or more models I am checking out.

 

Aaaaanyway, pen recommendations. Hmm. There's any number of plastic pens around at all sorts of price ranges, I don't really know what to recommend. If you want something with no step, you could try a Parker 51 or a clone, such as the Jinhao 51A. Or maybe a Sheaffer 330 or 440 (they aren't made anymore but still widely available on ebay and from sellers such as Peyton Street Pens). If you want something pretty, you can get some very colourful acrylics from FountainPenRevolution and other Indian sellers, and there's some very handsome Conklin Duragraphs out there.

 

So far, I am interested in Lamy, Pelikan, Platinum. Can you recommend other pens that have a similar girth and nib size as the Plaisir?

 

I checked the Sheaffer 300 on their website and it has a thicker girth and tapers some towards the edges. I know I like an even thickness like the Plaisir since that allows me to move my thumb a bit, as needed.

[AMlines]

Depending on where you live, you could take a Pelikan to a pen show, and get the nib ground to your preference. Or send it to a nibmeister.

 

Pelicans are very reliable. They write even if ignored for weeks.

 

Edited to add that unfortunately Pelikan pens cost more in the US. So we either pay up, or buy online from an overseas seller. If you really want a Pelikan, sargetalon here on FPN gave me good information in a private message conversation. He writes the blog The Pelikans Perch. He or other members (read adding to the flock thread for them) would probably be happy to help you find a good seller.

 

 

Thanks! Helpful, this. I was maybe going to order from Goulet pens who have a reasonably priced Pelikan M200. But this bit about nibs needs more research.

 

Why do I have the impression that Japanese nibs are more reliable/consistent? Since I am using a Plaisir F, I will also have to go for a Pelikan EF. Not sure if that creates any issues of its own.

[AMlines]

The 200 has a very nice springy regular flex nib. It is 1/2 width narrower than the fat and blobby round ball nibs of the other Pelikans. It has a nice semi-vintage tear drop shaped tip. It is as good as the '82-97 semi-vintage 400 regular flex nib.

 

How fascinating. Can you explain how nib flex effects the writing experience? Is it for those writers who like to press down on the nib?

 

I like the Plaisir nib experience as I hold the pen lightly and never press down much. That's even when I am using ball pen or gel pens.

 

It's interesting that the 200 nib is narrower. So, the regular rule of Japanese F = Euro EF doesn't hold? If I want the Plaisir F equivalent then I should get a Pelikan F ?

 

I rave about the 200's nib quite often.

You can buy eventually, say 4 pens from now a semi-flex vintage nib, '50-65 and screw it into a 200.

For @ $27 you can get other steel/gold plated nibs in different widths. The F & M nibs are very good nibs for two toned shading inks.

I mention M in it is because many come into fountain pens with a western M, and go skinny or broad not as well liked as it deserves. (You it seems came in like many now with Japanese, so you might think M is wide....it ain't it's medium. )

 

Ha ha, yes, I knew I liked thinner nibs. Plus, members' suggestions were helpful because I had mentioned that I will also be writing on regular A4 paper. The Plaisir F is not too thin and narrow, and while the ink spreads out quite a bit on A4, it is nevertheless nice to look at. Just feels like you wrote using a M or B on FP paper

 

A M nib is great for classic rough papers like Laid or Linen effect papers. Those papers are not good on Western EF or Japanese F nibs. They are too narrow.

 

You do need 90g paper, for shading inks out side of Rhodia 80g (I have the new 90g Rhodia) or Tomalo River (sp...which I don't jet have) Japanese 70 g papers.

 

Common 80g/20 pound copy paper will not shade. Good to better paper costs two mechanically delivered Cokes or even better two cups of Starbucks coffee.

 

Writing is 1/3 nib width and flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3rd ink and in that order......though some add a third for the user.

 

Oh, by the way, a western B, has some pizazz...when that day comes.

 

Great, thanks.

[cattar]

Going to a pen club meeting would allow you to hold and try many different nibs and pens.

Take a notebook and consider whether you like the nib on the page, the feel of the pen in hand, the nib/pen appearance, and whether you could comfortably write with the pen for an extended time (or for short notes).

 

Search for pen clubs on google, meetup, or here. Mention what city you're near and members may point you to one.

[SoulSamurai]

 

Can you elaborate on the technical aspects of nibs a bit? The Plaisir has a F 03. Other than aesthetic issues do nib sizes make a significant difference to the writing experience?

 

What happens as we move from the small and short nib of the Lamy 2000 to much bigger and longer ones, say, in the 3776 Century?

 

That's kind of a big topic, and I'm not very experienced myself. Nibs vary in:

-smoothness & feedback

-tolerance to rotation (some nibs have an unforgiving "sweet spot")

-softness/bounce

-flex (BIG topic, but basically the tines of some nibs "flex" apart under mild pressure to create a wider line)

-line width (fine, medium, broad etc)

-tip shape (stub, italic, etc)

-overall shape/type (traditional, arrow, hooded, semi-hooded, inlaid, etc)

-overall size and length (#5, #6 etc)

 

Personally I don't know that overall nib size (#5 vs #6 etc) has much effect on actual writing experience; perhaps with soft or flex nibs a larger nib might have the potential to bend or flex a bit further but I don't really know. Small nibs like the hooded nib on a Lamy 2000 are very unlikely to have much flex, but then most pens these days don't have much flex anyway. Nib tipping width though (fine, medium, broad etc) does have an effect, in that the finer the nib the less likely it is to be very smooth.

 

I don't think you should get too drawn into this topic right now; rather this is something to explore slowly over time.

 

 

 

 

 

So far, I am interested in Lamy, Pelikan, Platinum. Can you recommend other pens that have a similar girth and nib size as the Plaisir?

 

 

 

 

Not off the top of my head. Websites such as Goulet have a lot of details concerning weight and dimensions if you go looking. Of course getting to handle pens in person is the best. If you're interested in the a hooded or semi hooded stepless pen like the Lamy 2000 but want something less tapered, I think the Aurora Duocart (the modern version) might have a slightly straighter grip. I think it's around the same price too. Haven't tried one in person though.

 

 

 

I checked the Sheaffer 300 on their website and it has a thicker girth and tapers some towards the edges. I know I like an even thickness like the Plaisir since that allows me to move my thumb a bit, as needed.

 

Not the 300; that's a modern pen of fairly traditional make. The 330 and 440 are "Imperial style" inlaid nib pens that haven't been made in a while. You said you don't like tapered grips though, so the Imperials are probably not right for you after all.

 

Personally I did find the Sheaffer 300 to be very comfy in my hand, but mine is not at all resistant to drying out so it doesn't get used.

[Bo Bo Olson]

 

How fascinating. Can you explain how nib flex effects the writing experience? Is it for those writers who like to press down on the nib?

No, a springy nib, is like having good shock absorbers, a good ride and the nib has a clean line. It is not just for the ham fisted....but for everyone.

I don't care for nails and semi-nails, I do like a nice springy regular flex and not yet for you semi-flex....which is no where near a 'flex' pen.

 

 

 

It's interesting that the 200 nib is narrower. So, the regular rule of Japanese F = Euro EF doesn't hold? If I want the Plaisir F equivalent then I should get a Pelikan F ?

 

It would be a EF and a half to Japanese EF is my guess. You would I think consider it a fat F if you compared to a Plaisir F. The 200 is skinnier than Pelikan, MB and Lamy. I don't know if Waterman is as skinny or skinnier. I don't chase skinny, nor Waterman.

I do have a 200 EF, but found I had a few vintage semi-flex nibs that are actually a tad narrower.

Just thought I have a couple F semi-vintage nibs in Pelikan Celebry pens.................in vintage I only have an OF 400NN (my first 'skinny' nib and that in OF semi-flex)...because I chased wider nibs when given a chance.

 

There is tolerance in every pen ever made by no matter who. It is not only possible but probable you can get a skinny M and a fat F that will be = equal. If each nib is 100th of an inch or cm in side of tolerance, you can not tell the difference.

If you want I'll re-post Ron Zorns info on tolerance.

 

Each of the companies like even the Japanese have their very own standards (so you don't mistake a wider Parker nib and a skinny Sheaffer nib and make a major mistake and buy the wrong new pen back in the day of One man, One Pen. Customers were trained to accept one company's width as wished, by the then trained pen sales man; keeping one in brand loyality......)....and it depends on which era one is looking at. MB, Pelikan were thinner nibs in vintage; and semi-vintage times. (Well only have one MB from '70-80; three from early '50's.) Whole slew of vintage and semi-vintage Pelikans.

 

I've only had a Japanese made Sheafer that I sold because it was a nail. It was skinny. How skinny exactly I don't know. By the time I got it I'd stopped using Richard Binder's width guide. I knew one was only going to get approximately a width in any company's standard.

One good Japanese poster said, Sailor was the Fat Japanese nib...…….a couple of non-Japanse posters jumped all over me with their spiked hip waders.

Aurora once had the reputation of being the thinnest European nib. Waterman next.....

I have an old chart, from before Japanese pens started going main stream in the about the turn of the century.

Conway Stewart was by far the widest, then came Parker well known as wider than Shaeffer, then Pelikan with it's then two widths, one thinner for the 800. Then came Waterman...………..it was discovered later after many Flame Wars, Piston and nib change vs Skinny, that Waterman also had a nib set as wide as the regular Pelikan. ......

However Pelikan EF was the narrowest of those companies....that had to be @ 1990-97.

Aurora was not on that list nor any Japanese. Then japanese pens really came in and Waterman fans no longer had a cleaim on a skinny nib.

 

I would expect a Pelikan EF to be near but not as skinny as a fat Sailor F nib. (The Japanese nibs are designed for a tiny printed script.....Western nibs are designed for larger flowing cursive.

If you print, stay Japanese.

 

 

Ha ha, yes, I knew I liked thinner nibs. Plus, members' suggestions were helpful because I had mentioned that I will also be writing on regular A4 paper. The Plaisir F is not too thin and narrow, and while the ink spreads out quite a bit on A4, it is nevertheless nice to look at. Just feels like you wrote using a M or B on FP paper

What ink are you using?....what paper 80g?

I don't know Japanese inks....nor if dry 4001 Pelikan international cartridges will fit your Japanese pen. Do see if there is a dry Japanese ink.

 

Great, thanks.

 

Springy means bounce, or a bit of bend and a bit of tine spread.....not 'flex' as in large amounts of tine bend and wide easy tine spread.

Some have called certain Japanese nibs 'soft'.(for a while I thought them about the same)...but because others call a 'soft' Japanese nib mushy.....the 200 is 'soft' but not mushy.

 

Skinny nibs do not, nor will they shade or give you much sheen...……..

I do find the vivid, monotone supersaturated inks needed to be seen with real skinny nibs....boring.

 

And you will not be scribbling at home??? Using your very own paper. For fun....a ream of 500 sheets can last a year perhaps two.

Well do stay far away from ink jet paper.....it's a feather champ.

 

I only have some 40 papers and consider myself a paper 'noobie'.

Edited August 28, 2019 by Bo Bo Olson

[AMlines]

That's kind of a big topic, and I'm not very experienced myself. Nibs vary in:

-smoothness & feedback

-tolerance to rotation (some nibs have an unforgiving "sweet spot")

-softness/bounce

-flex (BIG topic, but basically the tines of some nibs "flex" apart under mild pressure to create a wider line)

-line width (fine, medium, broad etc)

-tip shape (stub, italic, etc)

-overall shape/type (traditional, arrow, hooded, semi-hooded, inlaid, etc)

-overall size and length (#5, #6 etc)

 

Personally I don't know that overall nib size (#5 vs #6 etc) has much effect on actual writing experience; perhaps with soft or flex nibs a larger nib might have the potential to bend or flex a bit further but I don't really know. Small nibs like the hooded nib on a Lamy 2000 are very unlikely to have much flex, but then most pens these days don't have much flex anyway. Nib tipping width though (fine, medium, broad etc) does have an effect, in that the finer the nib the less likely it is to be very smooth.

 

I don't think you should get too drawn into this topic right now; rather this is something to explore slowly over time.

 

I had the same thoughts Clearly, there's a lot to learn and a lot of it will depend on how much time I can give to this. Indeed, going slow is what I intend to do.

 

But, thanks for all these details. I am pretty sure I won't appreciate flex nibs at the moment. I quite like the nib to lay down a clear and firm line, and I have never pressed hard on any pen. Of course, the nib width will have an obvious effect. In fact, I quite like the line width on FP friendly paper that the Plaisir F lays down. Even on A4 paper the line is thicker but not too much. So, I guess the Japanese F size of nib is what works for me, for now, at least.

 

Not off the top of my head. Websites such as Goulet have a lot of details concerning weight and dimensions if you go looking. Of course getting to handle pens in person is the best. If you're interested in the a hooded or semi hooded stepless pen like the Lamy 2000 but want something less tapered, I think the Aurora Duocart (the modern version) might have a slightly straighter grip. I think it's around the same price too. Haven't tried one in person though.

 

I hadn't checked Aurora pens at all. The Duocart sure looks nice, and the girth looks even. I'll keep this in mind as I narrow down my selection.

 

Not the 300; that's a modern pen of fairly traditional make. The 330 and 440 are "Imperial style" inlaid nib pens that haven't been made in a while. You said you don't like tapered grips though, so the Imperials are probably not right for you after all.

 

Personally I did find the Sheaffer 300 to be very comfy in my hand, but mine is not at all resistant to drying out so it doesn't get used.

Yes, I resistance to drying is important for me too. While I do write everyday there are often days when I don't need to, or may not be carrying my FP.

 

Speaking of which, are the Pelikan M200, Platinum Plaisir/Century 3776, and Lamy's in general highly resistant to drying out?

[cattar]

quote AMlines

Speaking of which, are the Pelikan M200, Platinum Plaisir/Century 3776, and Lamy's in general highly resistant to drying out?

 

 

Yes. Also the Platinum Plaisir and Preppy and Century 3776, and the Sailor Promenade and a few other Sailor Pens have a spring-loaded slip/seal cap liner and that means those pens don't dry out when left for a year or more (as when lost under the car mat).

Many other pens can last weeks or months.

Some last days. Some have such an open cap seal they dry out overnight.

[A Smug Dill]

Speaking of which, are the Pelikan M200, Platinum Plaisir/Century 3776, and Lamy's in general highly resistant to drying out?

It depends on the Lamy model. My Lamy CP1 is very good at resisting ink drying out when capped and unused, but not so my Lamy Logo pens. I'm not sure about the Lamy Imporium yet, since I have only had it for a short while. The Safari and Al-Star seem to be marginally better than the Logo in that respect.

 

The other pens you've listed are very reliable and resistant to ink drying out.

[Arkanabar]

 

 

I think it might help people give useful recommendations if you could give more specifics about what you liked and what you didn't like about the pen.

 

Using the Plaisir as a starting point, I'm wondering if you might like the Lamy Aion? It also has an aluminium body and plastic grip with a snap cap and a similar shaped nib, however I believe the aluminium in the body is a bit thicker (according to Goulet the Aion's body is 21g to the Plaisir's 9g), and the grip is a probably a bit thicker at the midpoint (again going by Goulet the Aion's grip diameter is 1mm larger). Also the Aion has no step between the body and the section. It's a much pricier pen though, at around $70.

 

Consider an ebonite pen if you want something with more grip than metal or acrylic. I don't know of any ebonite pens with snap caps, but if you're happy with a screw-on you can get Indian ebonite pens in a variety of sizes. Some will have ebonite feeds, others will take fairly standard nib units with plastic feeds and cartridge/converter compatibility. Check out FPR, Gama, Asa and others to see if anything catches your fancy.

 

Echo that. I always recommend that you use a new pen for a few months before you go shopping for your next one. It's helpful to know what you do and don't like, with regard to length, girth, weight, filling system, materials, and so on. I am of the opinion that it takes at least a few months to really understand how you like a pen, and all its advantages and flaws. Don't be in a hurry to get a bunch of new pens.

 

I really do like ebonite, but I am not going to suggest you look at Indian ebonite just yet, unless you plan to pay out for a Ranga. My FPR pens aren't quite reliable enough for me to recommend them to a new user, unless you're up to watching lots of videos on adjustment, tuning, and problem correction.

[chromantic]

 

Can you elaborate on what you mean by huge? The girth around the cap? Something else? Strange, I never thought of the Plaisir as huge.

 

The M600 will be out of my budget. With the cap posted the M200 should be fine for me. It's a light-weight pen and I am pretty sure I never enjoyed heavier or thicker FPs, ever.

 

Well, I guess not huge as in M1000 huge but distinctly larger than the M150s I was gravitating to at the time. It's over a 1/2 inch taller than an M200 and while the barrel isn't too bad the cap has a pretty big girth. My JIFs, for example, are just under 1/2" taller than an M200 but that's offset by their relative slimness.

 

I was going to say "if they're in your price range" about the M600 but didn't (and, also, that the piston mechanism is pretty well time-tested in terms of reliability), sorry. I love my Pelikans - the 150/2xx/4xx are perfect for me, both in size and weight.

[bemon]

I am using a Platinum Plaisir and quite liking it. However, I can see the body has a thin and slightly tinny feel to it, besides being slippery to carry. The grip is however nice, and I have no problems writing with the pen. I also like the nib size which I find it neither too big nor too small.

 

I will soon be stepping up and getting another FP. What should i be looking for?

 

A Japanese F / Euro EF should suffice. This should have the same, or a little more, thicker grip than the Plaisir. I am not sure about the long-term reliability of pistons so I may prefer C/C pens.

 

I really like the Pelikan M200. However, it doesn't exactly meet my criteria. Which other options should I consider? I also doesn't seem to be highliy recommended pen here.

 

How about Platinum 3776 ? It seems nice but it heavier and the nib feels too big to me.

 

The Lamy Studio has a steel grip and I am pretty sure I won't take to it.

 

How about the much cheaper TWSBI Eco?

 

Let me know your recommendations.

 

Thanks!

My experience has taught me to steer clear of entry level Pelikans. The M2-600 range has a very under-built/over-priced feel and they can't even be disassembled for maintenance. On top of that there's some question around nib QA. I think that's an unpopular opinion, but I've had 6 over the years. So as far as I'm concerned that's advice you can take to the bank.

 

The Lamy Studio is a solid option, but again from my experience I'd recommend the Palladium Studio since the polished nib section on the other versions become difficult to hold on to long term.

 

Can't go wrong with the 3776! It's a solid pen for the price and you'll easily over come any differences in handling due to nib size.

 

I've also had a few TWSBI products through the years. Out of the box they do write well. I hear stories of caps cracking though- I sold all of mine virtually mint so I don't have any long term experience to comment from.

 

How about the Lamy 2000? It's incredibly well rounded: easy to hold, light weight without feeling cheap, holds a decent amount of ink and has a timeless design. As a bonus Lamy's customer service is pretty good. Parts are easy to come by and it's easy to maintain on your own. Mine's developed a crack in the plastic above the nib section after 4 years of daily office use, but I believe that's due to a design flaw which has been corrected.

Edited August 29, 2019 by bemon

[A Smug Dill]

My experience has taught me to steer clear of entry level Pelikans. The M2-600 range has a very under-built/over-priced feel and they can't even be disassembled for maintenance. On top of that there's some question around nib QA.

Whereas my biggest disappointment was with my Pelikan M815 Metal-Striped, primarily because of the nib; that then extends to the whole pen not worth its asking price to me, even though the barrel is solidly built and interesting. I'm happier with my M200 Smoky Quartz than I imagined I would be, so much so that I ordered another one as a gift set (with a bottle of Edelstein ink included in the gift box) to give to a friend, as well as a M205 Blue Marbled (which looks quite nice and doesn't feel cheap, now that I've had it in my hands for a couple of days) and two M400 (White Tortoise and Tortoiseshell-Brown). I'm also very happy with my M600 Vibrant Orange, thanks to Dan Smith's marvellous job of customising the nib for me and selling the pen to me at a very good all-inclusive price.

[bemon]

Whereas my biggest disappointment was with my Pelikan M815 Metal-Striped, primarily because of the nib; that then extends to the whole pen not worth its asking price to me, even though the barrel is solidly built and interesting. I'm happier with my M200 Smoky Quartz than I imagined I would be, so much so that I ordered another one as a gift set (with a bottle of Edelstein ink included in the gift box) to give to a friend, as well as a M205 Blue Marbled (which looks quite nice and doesn't feel cheap, now that I've had it in my hands for a couple of days) and two M400 (White Tortoise and Tortoiseshell-Brown). I'm also very happy with my M600 Vibrant Orange, thanks to Dan Smith's marvellous job of customising the nib for me and selling the pen to me at a very good all-inclusive price.

To be honest, I kept my White Tortoise M400 and green striped M600 just because they're damn 'purdy. But I can't see myself inking them up again just because they don't feel as substantial as their price tag suggests, and that's all it is to me. You're right, they don't feel cheap per se. But they also don't feel substantial. This is my opinion, but it's one I know other share. I sold my EDC M600 and bought a GVFC classic from my friend as my replacement EDC flagship pen. It's still not my GOAT, but it FEELS far more substantial for the money.

[AMlines]

My experience has taught me to steer clear of entry level Pelikans. The M2-600 range has a very under-built/over-priced feel and they can't even be disassembled for maintenance.

Oh, that's interesting. So, if there's a problem with the piston mechanism you will need to replace the body or the pen?

On top of that there's some question around nib QA. I think that's an unpopular opinion, but I've had 6 over the years. So as far as I'm concerned that's advice you can take to the bank.

I've read about the inconsistent nib quality elsewhere, and been wondering about it. The general opinion seems to be that Japanese nibs have consistent quality control. But, one could always replace the nib too.

The Lamy Studio is a solid option, but again from my experience I'd recommend the Palladium Studio since the polished nib section on the other versions become difficult to hold on to long term.

Thanks, I'll check this out. I find the Plaisir grip nice to hold even over longer durations. And I think I'll like resin grips too. My sense is that a metal grip is a tricky thing. It can get slippery and also adds unnecessary weight.

Can't go wrong with the 3776! It's a solid pen for the price and you'll easily over come any differences in handling due to nib size.

Ah, I see. That was the other pen I was considering alongside the M200. The nib just seems too broad and long for me, but I know that it's well-received by members here. Okay, so now I will give it a more serious look :-)

I've also had a few TWSBI products through the years. Out of the box they do write well. I hear stories of caps cracking though- I sold all of mine virtually mint so I don't have any long term experience to comment from.

Yeah, I am not hot for them. I checked sizes and I am pretty sure they're too wide for me. And the nibs are big too. While a demonstrator is good to look at, a "traditional pen look" is what appeals to me.

How about the Lamy 2000? It's incredibly well rounded: easy to hold, light weight without feeling cheap, holds a decent amount of ink and has a timeless design. As a bonus Lamy's customer service is pretty good. Parts are easy to come by and it's easy to maintain on your own. Mine's developed a crack in the plastic above the nib section after 4 years of daily office use, but I believe that's due to a design flaw which has been corrected.

You read my mind. I had ignored that pen for its price, and felt that the tapering grip is not for me. I like the Plaisir grip and have big hands. The grip lets me move around my thumb a bit.

But, of late I've been considering the Lamy 2000. I am not sure about it's weight, which at 25 g is much heavier than my Plaisir at 19 g. But then again, it may just have a really good feel while writing.

I love the design and even better the understated nib. But it's a piston so I am also thinking about what will happen if I need to maintain or worse repair it.

Is there a time of the year and/or a seller who can give me the 2000 at good discounts?

 

Thanks!

[A Smug Dill]

So, if there's a problem with the piston mechanism you will need to replace the body or the pen?

You send it to Pelikan or Chartpak for warranty claim and/or authorised repair service.

 

I've read about the inconsistent nib quality elsewhere, and been wondering about it. The general opinion seems to be that Japanese nibs have consistent quality control. But, one could always replace the nib too.

From what I've read, and also in my first-hand experience, Pelikan's steel nibs for the M20x are OK. It's with Pelikan's gold nibs, especially for the finer grades, and even more especially for the Extra Fine nibs for which Pelikan — or its retailers, surely not independently of Pelikan's wholesale pricing policies — generally want to charge extra (and not only by a trivial or token amount!) that purchasers have problems with consistency and fitness-for-purpose.

 

I love the design and even better the understated nib. But it's a piston so I am also thinking about what will happen if I need to maintain or worse repair it.

As with any piston-filler that you're not prepared to just throw away and replace wholesale (such as a three-or-four-dollar Wing Sung 3008 or PenBBS 494), as an average pen user without pen repair and restoration expertise of one's own, you send it to someone else to deal with it (and pay up if required).

 

Is there a time of the year and/or a seller who can give me the 2000 at good discounts?

What counts as "good" discounts? Endless Pens in the US always lists it at a discount, and sometimes more of one for brief periods than other times. I was actually tempted to get one recently (when I got a refund from some other retailer on a much more expensive piston-filler that was utterly, unbelievably bad), but then there are many equally interesting but prettier "kick-around" pens I could buy for that amount of spend, since the Lamy 2000 is something I'd buy out of curiosity only to see what the fuss is about, yet another piece of my, "Yeah, I have one of those too, and not that impressed compared to my (other) German and Japanese pens) collection. Or I could get a second Diplomat Aero for less, and be more certain that I'd be happy with the purchase and enjoy using that pen.

[bemon]

Oh, that's interesting. So, if there's a problem with the piston mechanism you will need to replace the body or the pen?

 

I've read about the inconsistent nib quality elsewhere, and been wondering about it. The general opinion seems to be that Japanese nibs have consistent quality control. But, one could always replace the nib too.

 

Thanks, I'll check this out. I find the Plaisir grip nice to hold even over longer durations. And I think I'll like resin grips too. My sense is that a metal grip is a tricky thing. It can get slippery and also adds unnecessary weight.

 

Ah, I see. That was the other pen I was considering alongside the M200. The nib just seems too broad and long for me, but I know that it's well-received by members here. Okay, so now I will give it a more serious look :-)

 

Yeah, I am not hot for them. I checked sizes and I am pretty sure they're too wide for me. And the nibs are big too. While a demonstrator is good to look at, a "traditional pen look" is what appeals to me.

 

You read my mind. I had ignored that pen for its price, and felt that the tapering grip is not for me. I like the Plaisir grip and have big hands. The grip lets me move around my thumb a bit.

But, of late I've been considering the Lamy 2000. I am not sure about it's weight, which at 25 g is much heavier than my Plaisir at 19 g. But then again, it may just have a really good feel while writing.

I love the design and even better the understated nib. But it's a piston so I am also thinking about what will happen if I need to maintain or worse repair it.

Is there a time of the year and/or a seller who can give me the 2000 at good discounts?

 

Thanks!

As far as I know with any Pelikan below the 800 you can’t access the piston mechanism. Whether Pelikan can service it or not in I don’t k ow but my understanding is that you’ll ruin the pen by trying to disassemble it.

 

Japanese nibs have in my experience offered better out of the box performance for sure. Though there’s plenty of good to say about German nibs too. (Lamy 2k)

 

My main issue with a steel section comes from polished finishes. If there’s some texture then I’m ok with the extra weight.

 

You can always order a Platinum with a fine nib so you’re putting down a thinner swath of ink- mines a medium and it’s a little on the thin side for me but I like western mediums to Japanese broads so. You may fare well with a fine Japanese nib.

 

The L2K is worth checking out. Is there somewhere you can go locally to take one on a test drive? It’s possible to completely disassemble it on your own if you choose! I’ve seen L2Ks out there for under $200. I can’t think of a place where you could find one heavily discounted, but for the price you’re getting a solid writer that ticks a lot of boxes and will last you years. The only thing I might caution you around is nib sizing. If you like a fine then I’ve heard the sweet spot can be tough to find.

 

I have a medium and a broad and they’re both butter smooth.

[AMlines]

You send it to Pelikan or Chartpak for warranty claim and/or authorised repair service.

 

 

From what I've read, and also in my first-hand experience, Pelikan's steel nibs for the M20x are OK. It's with Pelikan's gold nibs, especially for the finer grades, and even more especially for the Extra Fine nibs for which Pelikan — or its retailers, surely not independently of Pelikan's wholesale pricing policies — generally want to charge extra (and not only by a trivial or token amount!) that purchasers have problems with consistency and fitness-for-purpose.

I use a Japanese F and would have got the Pelikan EF. So, now I am no longer enthused about it.

What counts as "good" discounts? Endless Pens in the US always lists it at a discount, and sometimes more of one for brief periods than other times. I was actually tempted to get one recently (when I got a refund from some other retailer on a much more expensive piston-filler that was utterly, unbelievably bad), but then there are many equally interesting but prettier "kick-around" pens I could buy for that amount of spend, since the Lamy 2000 is something I'd buy out of curiosity only to see what the fuss is about, yet another piece of my, "Yeah, I have one of those too, and not that impressed compared to my (other) German and Japanese pens) collection. Or I could get a second Diplomat Aero for less, and be more certain that I'd be happy with the purchase and enjoy using that pen.

Thanks for the tip! I checked and was pleasantly surprised to see it going for $125 ! This is the cheapest I have seen so far. This is easily a good enough discount. Though weirdly, they have two different 2000s on sale - one for 125 and the other for 135, with the former on pre-order.

 

https://endlesspens.com/collections/lamy-fountain-pens

 

I checked Goulet pens and other sellers and they were selling it for $175. My question is simple - why this wide difference in prices?

Could there be some minor quality issues with these pens to make them offer it for such discounts?

 

Thanks!

[AMlines]

Japanese nibs have in my experience offered better out of the box performance for sure. Though there’s plenty of good to say about German nibs too. (Lamy 2k)

That's why I am considering the 3776 Century. But at $180 plus its not a price I am willing to pay. Will try and see if I can find a discount.

My main issue with a steel section comes from polished finishes. If there’s some texture then I’m ok with the extra weight.

Not sure what you mean by polished finishes. Steel nibs polished with gold?

You can always order a Platinum with a fine nib so you’re putting down a thinner swath of ink- mines a medium and it’s a little on the thin side for me but I like western mediums to Japanese broads so. You may fare well with a fine Japanese nib.

I am using a Plaisir with a F nib and quite like it.

 

That means I should be going for a Lamy EF or maybe a F should suffice?

 

I am not sure I'll be able to tune the nib if I don't get a good writing experience. From what you're saying it may be a better idea to go for a M, but then that will be too thick for my uses.

The L2K is worth checking out. Is there somewhere you can go locally to take one on a test drive? It’s possible to completely disassemble it on your own if you choose! I’ve seen L2Ks out there for under $200. I can’t think of a place where you could find one heavily discounted, but for the price you’re getting a solid writer that ticks a lot of boxes and will last you years. The only thing I might caution you around is nib sizing. If you like a fine then I’ve heard the sweet spot can be tough to find.

 

I have a medium and a broad and they’re both butter smooth.

Actually, I just got a tip in the previous response. See here for superb deals on the L2k -

 

https://endlesspens.com/collections/lamy-fountain-pens

 

This is easily the best discount I've seen. Though weirdly, they have two different 2000s on sale - one for 125 and the other for 135, with the former on pre-order.

[A Smug Dill]

I am using a Plaisir with a F nib and quite like it.

 

That means I should be going for a Lamy EF or maybe a F should suffice?

In my experience, Fine nibs on Platinum Plaisir (and Preppy) pens are not all that 'fine', and the line widths they put down are quite varied from ink to ink (or from nib to nib, but I haven't tried using the same nib with different inks than I've seen different F nibs put down varied line widths, so I won't comment on actual nib production consistency).

 

I found the line width put down by the 14K gold EF nib on my Lamy Imporium acceptable, even though it's neither as narrow nor as crisp as I'd really like. My experience with Lamy steel EF nibs is more varied. Obviously, I can't (and wouldn't want to) comment on the performance of the nibs on Lamy 2000 pens.

 

Though weirdly, they have two different 2000s on sale - one for 125 and the other for 135, with the former on pre-order.

I have never seen that happen before with Endless Pens. For US$112.50, I can reconsider it, although I'll need to find something else I want to buy to get the order total past US$250. Hmmmm.

 

Still a toss-up between that and a second Diplomat Aero for essentially the same price.

Edited August 30, 2019 by A Smug Dill