""""is the blue black with a bit of iron gall, I could try that one in the pen. Or maybe Rohrer and Klingner Salix, which is my favorite everyday ink.""""
Both would do just fine in narrowing the line.
That would be MB Irish Green a very good shading green-green = R&K's Verdura. You do need 90G or + laser paper to get any shading. 80G Rhoda is good too, but regular 80g copy paper is not good enough. If you don't put the twice as expensive 90g Laser paper in the printer....a waste, a ream will do you a number of years of fun at home.
I find Edelstein inks to be towards the middle like MB....but I don't do a lot of looking for the thinnest line I can get, so can't tell you if MB is the same wetness or wetter than Edelstein.
In Inky Thoughts there should be someone who can.
""I was also fiddling with the idea of swapping the twsbi nib for a Zebra G for trying a really flex nib in a fountain pen, don't know if that's a good idea, but it's well worth a try."" A number of folks have done that.....the Zebra G, is perhaps comparable to Wet Noodles, but is not a real flexible dip pen nib. It is a start.
Later see if a Hunt 99-100-101 would fit, they make a wet noodle look uncooked.
Could be a regular dip pen would do fine. This picture was given to the Com by someone who discovered if you take pure beeswax, and warm it it will fit the nib as a feed and you can cut the 'combs' your self. ( so immediately I went out and bought a pure beeswax candle.....that is still unused.
Modern (after 1965 for Pelikan...'70 for Geha and MB or others of that era) obliques have too little line variation compared to semi&maxi-semi-flex nibs.
I see too little line variation even in regular flex nibs to make it worth while. I trans-mailed some Pelikan 200's obliques to England for a pal, in there are some Germans who refuse to mail out of Germany. I even have a W.Germany 200, whose nib is a slight tad more springy than the later Germany 200's nibs, and it did not do the trick.
Modern Oblique is good if one is left eye dominate or a left hander.
Put on your list to buy German semi-flex Obliques of the '50-60's. :puddle:I have 13 in a mix of semi&maxi. There is also @ 15 & 30 degree grinds from that era. I have OBB, OB, OM and OF in both grinds. The 30 degree does give more pattern of course. Pure luck if it's 15 or 30 degrees.
Mauricio sells superflex pens, not cheap, but he sees exact fitting of the nib and feed into the pen as the best way to get the best results. It's a lot of fiddling work, and he is experienced; and it still is a lot of fiddling work.
I'm expecting a full wet noodle Waterman 52 from him....it won't be as thin as the last ....EFF-BBB, which is a nib I learned more about the variation of flex in Superflex. The nib started out Easy Full Flex and half way through became a wet noodle. I have a few Easy Full Flex pens, and a couple of Degussa nibs...I now only have two Wet Noodles, soon to be three. But
But....to get best use one needs to get a book on how to draw the letters.
Dip pen nibs are cheap and if you bust one it is no big deal. It takes quite a while for some....like me to lighten one's Hand, and learn how much stress a nib can take.....to judge how wide to test the nib at.
I strive to never max a nib. Richard has a great article on that. My post-war Pelikan 100n, will give a 5 X tine spread to a light down stroke and I try not to take it more than 4 X.
That Waterman that goes EEF-BBB, I try to keep it no wider than BB.
Richard's article really opened my eyes.
I always advise working one's way up the flex ladder....regular flex, then semi-flex for a while until the nib is not maxed all the time, before looking for more flexible nibs..............dip pens accelerates the process.
It also shows will you put in the work to make a superflex nib worth while. I don't put in the work, so I don't have the fancy the nib could give me.
Edited by Bo Bo Olson, 23 November 2017 - 17:56.