Jump to content

Re-Sacing Waterman Jif Masterpiece


terim

Recommended Posts

We have two brand new Waterman "Masterpiece" pens which we are trying to restore. Both have the attached aerometric "flag" filling systems.

 

http://www.peytonstreet.com/pens/waterman/jif_converter.jpg

 

We need to replace the sac inside the "flag" filling system, but we can't get the metal cover off. We've gone thru the usual bag of tricks -- insinuating a thin shim between plastic and metal, heat and Syd's formula (didn't seem much point in soaking since it had never been inked).

 

Has anyone had experience re-sacing these? Failing that, does anyone have a recommendation for getting the sac cover off?

 

Thanks!

TERI

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 10
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • terim

    4

  • mitto

    3

  • pjo

    2

  • Left FPN

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

I have seen this model and other similar models appear over on the Waterman Forum with the same problem and much the same result...its virtually impossible to remove the 'converter'. Even brute force seems to have little affect on the adhesive used.

 

I suspect you are trying to carry out the repair to sell the pens so this is not of much help. On a No 3, I cut the steel tube and bonded on a sac.

 

One has to roll up the sac, dunk the nib into ink, then release the sac.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen this model and other similar models appear over on the Waterman Forum with the same problem and much the same result...its virtually impossible to remove the 'converter'. Even brute force seems to have little affect on the adhesive used.

 

I suspect you are trying to carry out the repair to sell the pens so this is not of much help. On a No 3, I cut the steel tube and bonded on a sac.

 

One has to roll up the sac, dunk the nib into ink, then release the sac.

 

attachicon.gifDSC_6126.JPG

 

Thanks for the info. It's good to know that normal tactics will not be productive. The type of glue used sure seems like overkill......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got one that I got the housing off of intact; the bit that fits over the nipple still refuses to budge, but with some soaking and careful tugging it is... sometimes possible to resac it. I didn't know it wasn't a converter at that point.

 

If I remember correctly, it was soak, heat, tug (get close the threads), soak, heat, tug, naphtha, heat, tug, surprise, sit quietly while heart-rate resumes normal pace... and then spend rather a long time trying to get that damn converter plug off the nipple before reading the threads Force refers to. I can't guarantee results, of course. I may have got one that was put together poorly.

Edited by Ernst Bitterman

Ravensmarch Pens & Books
It's mainly pens, just now....

Oh, good heavens. He's got a blog now, too.

 

fpn_1465330536__hwabutton.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got one that I got the housing off of intact; the bit that fits over the nipple still refuses to budge, but with some soaking and careful tugging it is... sometimes possible to resac it. I didn't know it wasn't a converter at that point.

 

If I remember correctly, it was soak, heat, tug (get close the threads), soak, heat, tug, naphtha, heat, tug, surprise, sit quietly while heart-rate resumes normal pace... and then spend rather a long time trying to get that damn converter plug off the nipple before reading the threads Force refers to. I can't guarantee results, of course. I may have got one that was put together poorly.

Thank you, this is mildly encouraging!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay but I have only just seen your question on resacking a Waterman Jif pen. I have done this a couple of times with good results. My pens were unused (NOS) English Waterman's 88 GS M, made in the 1940's or 1950's. The mechanism is identical to the Jif Masterpiece.

 

The main problem is that the aluminium cover over the latex ink sac is shelaced in, it is a very tight fit and requires more than a little gentle wiggling to break the seal. I put mine in an ultrasonic bath with warm water and a little detergent. This, plus the warmth, seemed to help. The sac is over a small conical section that has a nipple for the sac to be cemented over. I used a No 14 sac, with shelac cement.

On one of my pens the conical section fitted into the pen with a very small rubber washer on the small end of the hollow cone. The washer was about 5mm OD and had a hole (ID) of about 2.5mm.

 

I suppose this is all a bit late to help you now. Do tell us how you got on as it will help others.

Edited by pjo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for the delay but I have only just seen your question on resacking a Waterman Jif pen. I have done this a couple of times with good results. My pens were unused (NOS) English Waterman's 88 GS M, made in the 1940's or 1950's. The mechanism is identical to the Jif Masterpiece.

 

The main problem is that the aluminium cover over the latex ink sac is shelaced in, it is a very tight fit and requires more than a little gentle wiggling to break the seal. I put mine in an ultrasonic bath with warm water and a little detergent. This, plus the warmth, seemed to help. The sac is over a small conical section that has a nipple for the sac to be cemented over. I used a No 14 sac, with shelac cement.

On one of my pens the conical section fitted into the pen with a very small rubber washer on the small end of the hollow cone. The washer was about 5mm OD and had a hole (ID) of about 2.5mm.

 

I suppose this is all a bit late to help you now. Do tell us how you got on as it will help others.

Never too late! We haven't broken anything yet. If we have anything to add I'll be happy to post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I have seen this model and other similar models appear over on the Waterman Forum with the same problem and much the same result...its virtually impossible to remove the 'converter'. Even brute force seems to have little affect on the adhesive used.

 

I suspect you are trying to carry out the repair to sell the pens so this is not of much help. On a No 3, I cut the steel tube and bonded on a sac.

 

One has to roll up the sac, dunk the nib into ink, then release the sac.

 

attachicon.gifDSC_6126.JPG

 

I resaced mine. It is easy peasy. The usual soaking and removing the button method. It didn't even require heating.

 

Pictures refusing to upload despite repeated tries with the message " the previous action ciuld not be completed due to low memory" appearing. Wonder what does this message mean? What low memory? My smart phone has more than enough empty memory. I am confronting this situation for quite some time now. Any help?

Khan M. Ilyas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi mitto . I'm so glad you have had no problem with the replacement. I've done it several times as described earlier in this thread and I can't understand why others are having so much trouble.

As to the picture uploading problem, I do hope someone can help you , as I have all sorts of problems too and would be interested in the answer. These things are probably dead simple, but somehow I never seem to get the hang of it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it was so easy. I soaked the button/nipple side of the converter for a few hours and the black button came off with gentle pulling and witout needing any heat or tools. Mine was the smaller size with the #2 nib. So digging out a smaller sac to fit was a bit of a problem. Anyhow I was able to manage the sac from my part bin. The pen looked to be NOS as beside the pristine condition of the pen i couldnt find any traces of ink in the sac or in the section. The nib/ feed were also super clean.

 

The picture uploading problem persists. Hope someone knowledgable chime in to help.

Khan M. Ilyas

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43972
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      35351
    3. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      30436
    4. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    5. Bo Bo Olson
      Bo Bo Olson
      27744
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • inkstainedruth
      Thanks for the info (I only used B&W film and learned to process that).   Boy -- the stuff I learn here!  Just continually astounded at the depth and breadth of knowledge in this community! Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth 
    • Ceilidh
    • Ceilidh
      >Well, I knew people who were photography majors in college, and I'm pretty sure that at least some of them were doing photos in color,<   I'm sure they were, and my answer assumes that. It just wasn't likely to have been Kodachrome.  It would have been the films I referred to as "other color films." (Kodachrome is not a generic term for color film. It is a specific film that produces transparencies, or slides, by a process not used for any other film. There are other color trans
    • inkstainedruth
      @Ceilidh -- Well, I knew people who were photography majors in college, and I'm pretty sure that at least some of them were doing photos in color, not just B&W like I learned to process.  Whether they were doing the processing of the film themselves in one of the darkrooms, or sending their stuff out to be processed commercially?  That I don't actually know, but had always assumed that they were processing their own film. Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth   ETA: And of course
    • jmccarty3
      Kodachrome 25 was the most accurate film for clinical photography and was used by dermatologists everywhere. I got magnificent results with a Nikon F2 and a MicroNikkor 60 mm lens, using a manually calibrated small flash on a bracket. I wish there were a filter called "Kodachrome 25 color balance" on my iPhone camera.
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...