Taking Apart A Pelikan 120 Merz & Krell

[stez]

I've a Pelikan 120 Merz & Krell that I want to take the piston out of, but I don't know how it dismantles, and I'd rather not break it.

Does anyone know how?

[1point1mm]

I don't know if this applies. . .

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/159266-pelikan-disassembly/

[christof]

I've a Pelikan 120 Merz & Krell that I want to take the piston out of, but I don't know how it dismantles, and I'd rather not break it.

Does anyone know how?

 

same procedur as usual for vintage pelikans:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3380/3615880453_07e3e483f3.jpg

...hope this helps

 

ps: step 6. -> do warm the pen gently with a hairdryer before knocking out the mechanism.

Edited September 10, 2010 by christof

[stez]

omg!!!

O.K. maybe I won't take it apart.

Thanks for the info; I like the graphics.

I'm a painter, so pictures always work better for me than those word thingies.

stez

[Rick Propas]

I'm not at all crazy about the hammer on the piston unit to remove the filler on the vintage 400 series pens. It may work, however, if you don't shatter the piston rod.

 

But it will not work on the M&K pens, the fillers on those are integral units that screw into place and are not reverse threaded, you seat the filler and then (nervously) keep turning.

 

First, soak the snot out of the pen.

[stez]

But it will not work on the M&K pens, the fillers on those are integral units that screw into place and are not reverse threaded, you seat the filler and then (nervously) keep turning.

First, soak the snot out of the pen.

 

Rick, it sounds like the same way to remove the piston on my Lamy 2000; twist the filler knob to the empty position, and keep turning until the piston mechanism pops out.

You puzzle me tho' most people, myself included prefer using ink in their pens; I guess you just like writing in a greenish color. :roflmho:

[bigstick]

Could be worse......he could like brown....

[Rick Propas]

actually, if you take antibiotics, you get a nice clearish white color, very elegant on black paper. Quite snooty (sp?) you might say.

[watch_art]

Here's the thread where I took my 400 apart...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/167642-taking-apart-a-pelikan-120-merz-krell/page__pid__1676030#entry1676030

 

But like Rick says it won't work on this.

But I still posted it for your viewing pleasure.

 

 

Good luck with yours.

[Rick Propas]

Like I said, I really do not like that method of driving out the piston assembly, it's a bit like swatting flies with a shotgun.

 

If you soak a 400 for at least 24 hours in a water and ammonia solution, apply just a bit of heat, you should be able to simply draw out the filler without any resort to force.

[pelikano]

this is a long shot... but does anyone in this thread happen to have

a spare 120 M&K cap they can sell?

[stez]

actually, if you take antibiotics, you get a nice clearish white color, very elegant on black paper. Quite snooty (sp?) you might say.

Rick,

Have you ever heard the term, "TMI"?....Well, that would definately qualify.

[Rick Propas]

TMI???

Ohhh, too much information.

Edited September 12, 2010 by Rick Propas

[stez]

TMI???

Ohhh, too much information.

Yeah Rick, that TMI. :clap1:

[christof]

 

 

But it will not work on the M&K pens, the fillers on those are integral units that screw into place and are not reverse threaded, you seat the filler and then (nervously) keep turning.

 

First, soak the snot out of the pen.

 

It would seem as I have to apologize for the wrong information. Sorry. Seems that Rick saved your pens life...

[stez]

It would seem as I have to apologize for the wrong information. Sorry. Seems that Rick saved your pens life...

 

Actually what saved it was my not following my usual order of things, that being: "If it ain't broke, fix it" :ltcapd:

I'm actually in the process of frankenpenning it by adding a Sheaffer Triumph nib to it. It looks amazingly streamlined and elegant; shiny black body, green ink window, and gold nib and trim.

Edited September 13, 2010 by stez

[watch_art]

How are you going to manage a triumph nib on a Pelikan? I need to see pics of that one, please.

 

[stez]

How are you going to manage a triumph nib on a Pelikan? I need to see pics of that one, please.

 

I'd won two Sheaffers on eBay, one was a black snorkel with a palladium silver nib, marked F4, one tine was bent, so it's on my own personal frankenpen.(MOPFP) The other was a blue touchdown filler with a perfect gold and silver "fine" nib.

That blue pen became the basis for MOPFP.

The Sheaffer Snorkel has a piece that connects the nib to the body; take that piece, sand down the threads on the body side, (Do not sand down the nib side threads, or you can't attach the nib to the pen. Duh!) it fits the Pelikan 120 M&K nearly perfectly. Shellac that piece to the pen body.

The hard part is that you have to scrape the inside of the Pelikan cap to allow it to accept the Triumph nib.

WARNING: Press fit all parts BEFORE you shellac the nib holder to the pen body.

Because you're using the Sheaffer nib & feeder holder, it allows you to change the Sheaffer nibs. Use the feed from a Touchdown, NOT a Snorkel, the TD ink feed is more streamlined because it lacks the snorkel tube hole; and also you don't have to plug the snorkel tube hole. The snorkel ink feed is also on MOPFP; I used the feed core from a Sheaffer school cartridge FP to block the tube hole; the ink slit goes face up, towards the feeder top.

I hope I haven't confused you.

Edited September 14, 2010 by stez

[watch_art]

I want pictures. THis sounds like fun!

[stez]

How are you going to manage a triumph nib on a Pelikan? I need to see pics of that one, please.

 

 

Here's one of the pics i took, the other trhee were too large to download. :hmm1: ???