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Taps/dies, Threads, Bits - Sizes Chart


jjudge

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I posted this over at IAP, and posting it here.

 

Its a PDF spreadsheet of important sizes to know -- please CONTRIBUTE to this, so we can get this updated, accurate, and improved.

Posts here or there, will get me to update the spreadsheet and repost (at both sites)!

 

I can't post the Excel (xls, xlsx) here -- msg me, if you want that Microsoft, editable, file format.

 

As with all custom pen work, you really only care about the "hard edges" to which you have to conform. That is:

  • size of "what you have to buy" (nib/feed assemblies, or quads/whole-sections)
  • length & diameter of the internal, purchased, mechanisms (converts/cartridges)

The rest is up to you. However, its nice to know that, e.g., the larger FP kits use a 12x.8 triple start cap/body threads ... or the smaller FP kits use a 10x1 section thread

 

I've added in the odd stuff too. E.g., Sharpie refills, so you can make a body, and thread the refill right into them.

Please contribute more of these odd things (e.g., pelikan nib assembly threading?)

 

 

-- joe

pen_related_sizes Sheet1.pdf

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I posted this over at IAP, and posting it here.

 

Its a PDF spreadsheet of important sizes to know -- please CONTRIBUTE to this, so we can get this updated, accurate, and improved.

Posts here or there, will get me to update the spreadsheet and repost (at both sites)!

 

I can't post the Excel (xls, xlsx) here -- msg me, if you want that Microsoft, editable, file format.

 

As with all custom pen work, you really only care about the "hard edges" to which you have to conform. That is:

  • size of "what you have to buy" (nib/feed assemblies, or quads/whole-sections)
  • length & diameter of the internal, purchased, mechanisms (converts/cartridges)

The rest is up to you. However, its nice to know that, e.g., the larger FP kits use a 12x.8 triple start cap/body threads ... or the smaller FP kits use a 10x1 section thread

 

I've added in the odd stuff too. E.g., Sharpie refills, so you can make a body, and thread the refill right into them.

Please contribute more of these odd things (e.g., pelikan nib assembly threading?)

 

 

-- joe

 

Thank you! very useful.

Sometimes, if you stand on the bottom rail of a bridge and lean over to watch the river slipping slowly away beneath you, you will suddenly know everything there is to be known." ~ Winnie the Pooh

 

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Splendid initiative, thanks !

As for the Pelikan nib units ,Pelikan always used and still uses "Inch" threading for their nib units:

-The M150 to M 600 uses 9/32" -36 pitch, pre-drill 6.3mm

-The M800 uses 11/32"- 36 pitch, pre-drill 8.1mm

-The M1000 uses 3/8"-36 pitch, pre-drill 9.3mm

As for the combination of an M10x1 section thread and a 3 leads M12x3 cap thread

I fully agree the remaining wall thickness is to thin .

Personally I would prefer a 3 leads M13x3 threads for the cap thread (combined pitch 1.0mm).

Any chance we could launch a tap/die group buy for these?

Francis

Edited by fountainbel
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Thanks Joe. This information will be very useful and more as it is expanded.

 

Francis there have been several group buys at the IAP with a 10mm triple start going on at the moment, 12mm and 14mm triples done in the past. The minimum needed for an order is 12 sets at about $120.00+ per set. With greater quantities there are small price drops but they aren't significant. Mike at Silver Pen Parts (listed in Joe's chart) sells the 12mm and 14mm and will stock the 10mm soon too. You could get ahold of him and see if he would want to run another group buy for the 13mm size you want. http://www.silverpenparts.com

 

Pete

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I think I'm moving to smaller section threads vs. larger cap threads. E.g., M9x1 vs. the current M10x1 section threads ... against the M12 x 0.8 x2.4 triple start tap/die I have for caps.

 

However, if someone did kick up a group buy on any multi-start M13 threads, I could find some money to join in for a tap + die.

 

And ... thanks for the Pelikan info. I'm updating the spreadsheet now. In a day or two, I'll post an update to it.

 

-- joe

 

Splendid initiative, thanks !

As for the Pelikan nib units ,Pelikan always used and still uses "Inch" threading for their nib units:

-The M150 to M 600 uses 9/32" -36 pitch, pre-drill 6.3mm

-The M800 uses 11/32"- 36 pitch, pre-drill 8.1mm

-The M1000 uses 3/8"-36 pitch, pre-drill 9.3mm

As for the combination of an M10x1 section thread and a 3 leads M12x3 cap thread

I fully agree the remaining wall thickness is to thin .

Personally I would prefer a 3 leads M13x3 threads for the cap thread (combined pitch 1.0mm).

Any chance we could launch a tap/die group buy for these?

Francis

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I think there is a place for British Standard Cycle threads in the Section-Barrel Interface, much as I hate to mix metric & inch sizes

 

I made a pen with M12 x 1 cap - barrel thread and a 3/8" x 26 tpi (Bitish Standard CYcle) barrel-section thread that has lasted 7 months of heavy use now. This appears strong enough. At a nominal diameter of 9.525mm, there is more meat left in the barrel, especially if you then go to M12 x 0.8 x 3 start for the cap-barrel thread. The BSCY taps & dies are fairly common on UK E-Bay, and all have 26 tpi regardless of diameter. I use a tapping drill of 8.5 for my 3/8" x 26 tpi BSCY thread and turn the section to 9.5mm for threading.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

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  • 7 months later...

Could someone tell what is the tap for Sheaffer no-nonsense/Balance II/connoisseur?

Everything is impermanent.

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Subscribed to this thread, thanks!

 

ETA: Just got a lathe, so I know this info will come in handy once I figure out what I'm doing.

Just built my first pen -- a kit. You know, the ~$25 one that cost me $1200 to build? :rolleyes:

Edited by escribo

I may not have been much help, but I DID bump your thread up to the top.

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