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Pelikan 120 Vintage piston fountain pen


ranjit

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The Merz und Krell is the 120 I have too. It was the first 'good' pen I had and got it back in the 70's too. I also used it for drawing and calligraphy-with italic nibs that were bought separate. I have used the 4001 black without any problems and because it is almost as black as Higgins India ink (which I would never put in a fountain pen) Cross fountain pen ink is also just as black. It even comes in the same bottle, so it may be made for them by Pelikan.

 

One time when I got some in Kansas City at the Pen Place, the owner said the 4001 was popular with his engineering customers because it was so black.

 

Edit:

Koh-I-Noor makes a Font India ink that is very much like India ink but I would not leave it in a pen for more than a couple days, then thoroughly rinse it out.

Edited by Artie
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Oh one other thing. If the piston is stiff, try removing the nib and retract the piston all the way back, then, with a tooth pick put a dab of silicone grease around the inside of the barrel up against the piston, then work the piston back and forth. I hope that loosens it up for you, otherwise the twist mechanism inside may be worn.

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I just purchased some Higgins ink -- it was the only ink on hand at a nearby art store. It's called "Higgins Fountain Pen India" non-waterproof black ink.

 

I assume I can try that stuff, right? It was surprisingly cheap ($2.76 for 2.5 fl. oz.), so maybe it isn't so hot....

 

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I recall when I used the pen frequently (for drawing), the piston moved easily - this after the thing being initially stiff. So it clearly loosens up with usage, and maybe I need to give it a good rinse and soak.

 

Thank you for this advice. Here comes a really predictable question: Where do I find silicone grease?

 

 

 

Oh one other thing. If the piston is stiff, try removing the nib and retract the piston all the way back, then, with a tooth pick put a dab of silicone grease around the inside of the barrel up against the piston, then work the piston back and forth. I hope that loosens it up for you, otherwise the twist mechanism inside may be worn.

 

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Joe,

Go to a dive shop and get scuba grease, the smallest container. Use the smallest amount you can use since it goes a long way. You'll need the grease for when you convert a cartridge or converter pen to an eyedropper. The smallest container will last you a lifetime if you're not a diver.

Tim

Tim

 timsvintagepens.com and @timsvintagepens

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks to this thread I have confirmed that I have a Pelikan 120 Merz und Krell, bought when I was in architecture school in the late '70's in Toronto. Unfortunately years ago the cap broke, and the clip has since disappeared. (It may turn up somewhere, I keep hoping.) Can anyone point me toward a good source of parts for this pen?

 

I'm just getting back into fountain pens, and would like to restore this one. :)

 

Thank you!

 

Rob in Seattle

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No Joe don't never ever use an India Ink in a fountain pen. :crybaby:

Dump it now and wash out the pen with lots of cool water.

 

It will gum up the works.

 

 

 

And if your piston is 'stiff' you need 100% pure silicon grease, found at dive shops, or Typhoon or Wood something, and or perhaps Richard Binder.

Do not use silicon car/plumbing or oil or spray, none are pure.

 

Buy a rubber ear syringe (great for cleaning out C/C pens too), for speed and ease of cleaning the Pelikan when changing inks. Twist out the nib...and be very careful...the longitudinal rills are delicate. They are ebonite so worth it.

 

If you have not taken out the nib yet...soak it in cool water, section high in a cup over night so any old dried ink will dissolve.

Take a paper towel wrap the nib and feed, putting pressure only on the nib side, screw it out.

 

If you put it back in easy, you don't need to use a paper towel any more. Don't crank the nib in hard.

 

I have a 120...that I now got to go look up to see exactly how old it is, but from the feed '57-65, that has a very nice regular flex gold plated steel nib.

It is a joy to write with. It's nip and tuck with my '90 400 14 K nib and IMO better than my 605's.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Joe's post is from August 09, but in any case, Joe lucked out on his choice of India ink. This one is one that is safe for fountain pens. Regular India ink will really mess up a pen but Higgins Fountain Pen, non waterproof India is ok. I used to use it on certificates that were too slick to take regular fountain pen ink.

 

As a general rule of thumb, unless you know for sure that it is ok, completely avoid any ink that says India or pigmented on the label.

Edited by ANM

And the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And know the place for the first time. TS Eliot

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:thumbup: On the info about Higgins. I was/am/some day going to buy some for my dip pens.

It's nice to know I can put it in a regular pen. :thumbup:

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Do NOT put Higgins India ink in a fountain pen. Joe said he used "Higgins Fountain Pen India" non-waterproof black ink. NON WATERPROOF for FOUNTAIN PENS is OK. Not the same thing as regular Higgins. Even so Higgins fountain pen ink is best flushed after using a couple of days and is better not to store ink in a pen for long periods of time. It is a very black fountain pen ink.

And the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And know the place for the first time. TS Eliot

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Inexperience allows one to read what one thinks and not what is meant.

 

Thanks again.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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You are quite welcome. I felt it needed to be made very clear to anyone reading this that there is a difference. One is OK, the other a disaster. Higgins India ink is very easily obtained in art stores. Higgins for fountain pens isn't all that common. I used to have to special order it when I needed it.

And the end of all our exploring

Will be to arrive where we started

And know the place for the first time. TS Eliot

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Dear All,

 

I just came across a Vintage Pelikan 120 piston fountain pen on EBaY. Is it a good pen?

How much will be an appropriate cost for it? It is in an 'as is' condition for sale.

 

Have anybody bought pens on EBay? I havent..so i ask this to you.

 

Finally, it is having a 'EF' or a 'F' nib type. not really sure about that. I although prefer the thicker ones..'M' suits me fine.

 

If i do buy this pen, will it be possible for me to fit a 'M' nib onto it??

 

Thanking you all in advance,

 

ranjit.

 

I have one that someone gave me after I had seen a drawing of this pen in a how-to-draw book. Now you've made me curious about what vintage I have.

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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Ruediger’s link

 

http://www.ruettinger-web.de/e-pelikan-modell-souveraen.html

 

 

more Pelikan stuff

 

http://www.pelikan-g....com/index.html

 

Martin Lehman: Pelikan-guide

 

I'm really happy with my 120...I'd not expected much from a school pen.

 

A regular Fine that is a joy to write with.

Compared to todays' regular, a tad more springy.

 

Nip and Tuck with my '90 400 and better than my 605.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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You can tell the difference between the earlier 120 in the 50's and the Mertz and Krell versions by: the newer one had a turning knob a the end of the pen that was flush with the barrel, the cap ring was tapered, not straight and the section has a taper without a flair at the end. The early 120 nibs and the newer ones are not interchangeable. I got turned on to fountain pens when I got one in the 70's. You could get both writing and calligraphy nibs for them. finding nibs for them now days is difficult and the current Pelikan nib assemblies do not fit them. You will pretty much be stuck with the nib it comes with. If you like a broader nib, maybe you should wait for one to come along.

 

In my opinion, the one design flaw was the dome on the cap was thin and hollow and they tended to crack and then the clip would not work. I made a sterling silver cap dome and glued it on with epoxy when mine broke. I still have it today. As I recall, the ones I have seen lately on ebay in good condition bring around 85 to 125 dollars.

 

On examination, SEEMS like I have the older (junkier?) model.

 

The turning knob's not quite flush and the section seems to be flared just a bit.

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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On examination, SEEMS like I have the older (junkier?) model.

 

The turning knob's not quite flush and the section seems to be flared just a bit.

 

 

My junker 120 stays in my rotation, for some odd reason. Could be is I don't have many regular flex fines. And I am very impressed with my vintage regular nib.

 

So is the M&K a springy nib or a semi-flex.

I have a lot of semi-flex nibs '30's-65. Some are second tier from the mid-50's -65, so semi-flex is not unusual...one 'less' expensive school pens. I have a nib from a Geha School pen that is is semi-flex.

 

I also have a regular flex Geha, that surprised me as a school pen, in regular flex, it is 'springier' than today's 'school' and the next level higher pens I have from today....ok...so I only have three of that class, not counting a couple of nails ...

 

I don't have a Geha school pen of that time, just some nibs, one (the better) fits another pen.

 

I also had/have a couple of regular flex Geha school nibs that don't impress.

So not every German school pen nib of the '50-mid '60s is better than the lower middle class and school pen (non Chinese) of today.

 

The 120 had been my first Fine nib, and I'd not expected much of it...and from the first day it was "Oh, and is still a joy to write with."

 

My junker's better than yours. :ltcapd:

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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  • 2 years later...

I saw an Ebay listing of "PELIKAN 120 with 14C KF nib".

But in this thread it is told that 120 has gold plated steel nib.

So this 120 of Ebay may have a replacement nib, maybe of 140.

But what is a KF nib? I have heard of F, M and B nibs.

What does the prefix K before F mean?

I am sure K is not mistyping of E (had the nib been EF) as E and K are far apart on the keyboard.

Can someone throw some light?

Edited by bbbiswas
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KF: Kugel Fine. Kugel being the German word for a ball tip.

 

Meanwhile I got a reply from the Ebayer and he told KF stands for Kugelspitzfeder Fein:

Kugel = bullet (small ball)

spitz= pointed

feder= spring/fountain

Fein= fine

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