Jump to content

Polishing compound for Parker 51 barrel and hood


BoxerDad

Recommended Posts

What type of compound is used to polish the barrel and hood of a Parker 51 that has minor scuffs /abrasions, not gouges ?

 

I'm assuming it's done by hand or made a dremmel with a very light touch as to not overheat the barrel or hood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Ron Z

    3

  • kpfeifle

    1

  • Paddler

    1

  • Opus104

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

I would suggest not using a Dremel rotary tool - ever, to polish a pen. It simply turns too fast and even with the lightest of touch you risk damaging the plastic.

If you want to use a Dremel - find one of their shoe buffers - the kind that has a black buff on one side and a red buff on the other side. Then convert it to accept 4" flannel buffs. It works great as a low speed, low power buffer. I use a plastic finishing compound from www.eastwood.com on one buff and then use an empty buff for the final polish. As with all of these techniques, practice on some junk first. And be careful.

May we live, not by our fears but by our hopes; not by our words but by our deeds; not by our disappointments but by our dreams.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try some of Giovanni's pen polish, followed by the carnuba wax. They're products that I use on a regular basis in my shop.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What Ron Z said. Works for me. The outfit that sells the polishing compound and wax is Tryphon Enterprises.

 

I have also used toothpaste to polish the scuffs out and then used acrylic floor polish to shine the pen. So far, all the "secret ingredients" have not had any adverse effects.

 

Paddler

 

Can a calculator understand a cash register?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ron:

 

Out of the many different polishs that Giovanni carries, which ones do you use?

 

I use the pen polish (brown stuff), the celluloid polish, and the carnauba wax. If you're protecting hard rubber pens, use the muxeum wax or Renaissance wax.

 

The celluloid polish works very well, and is my preference on mottled pens like the Waterman red and gold, or Conklin and Chilton black and gold plastics. The colors have different densities, so you can end up with a rippled surface if you buff them. I also use the plastic or celluloid polish on Parker VS pens. The plastic on a VS will melt and go ugly long before it polishes, so they should NOT be buffed, even with a wide slow buffing wheel.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plastic on a VS will melt and go ugly long before it polishes, so they should NOT be buffed, even with a wide slow buffing wheel.

 

Sounds like the voice of experience! This is why I don't do much on my own (can't afford the experience).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plastic on a VS will melt and go ugly long before it polishes, so they should NOT be buffed, even with a wide slow buffing wheel.

 

Sounds like the voice of experience! This is why I don't do much on my own (can't afford the experience).

 

....as indeed it is. :yikes: :headsmack: :bonk:

 

There's a lot that I write here - both positive instruction and negative, that comes out of experience. Not that I know everything, but one hopes that something would be learned in about 17 years of doing repairs.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless you're polishing a BUNCH of pens, you can polish by hand using 1000 grit sandpaper, followed by 2000 grit, then Novus plastic polish (Heavy, then Light scratch formulas).

 

Mask off the imprint at the top of the barrel first (Scotch Magic tape will work, use a few turns to cover the imprint).

 

Using only the pressure of your fingers, sand the entire barrel (and later hood, if necessary) in the same direction, pressing a little harder to work out deeper scratches.

 

Do the same with the 2000 grit, but work towards even coverage.

 

Polish with Novus Heavy Scratch Polish. Work it into a clean shop rag first.

 

Remove the tape from the imprint and give the pen a final polish with Novus Light Scratch polish (work polish into a paper towel or soft cloth).

 

That's it. The barrel will shine with a liquid gloss.

 

--Karl

 

PS: For deeper scratches and gouges, I sometimes start with a padded nail file, coarse side, then move to 800 Grit sandpaper, then 1000, then 2000, etc.

Visit my new writing instrument buy/sell/trade community: Fountain Pen Classifieds

 

100% dedicated to making deals better for everyone! And it's FREE!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or just use the Novus Heavy Scratch Polish, and do it while you're waiting for the program to compile or server to reboot.

 

Does it really _matter_ how long it takes you, as long as you've got the time? :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33559
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26744
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...