Mabie Todd Swan - Sac Replacement Advice, Please?

[Pendarion]

I just won a Mabie Todd Swan on eBay (model number unknown). Pen looks to be 1930s/40s judging by the images and info here. Seller didn't photo or mention model number. But it says "Self Filler" and is a lever fill.

 

I already have a Blackbird which is later period (1950s, one of the last ones, the "New Blackbird", I suspect) which is a twist cap filler and I realised, after I bought it, I wouldn't be able to replace the sac myself as the nib and feed need knocking out of the section. I assumed that might be because it was a twist cap filler? But am unsure.  I don't have the tools so have sent it off recently to a restorer.

 

I've got this pen for a low price on eBay from someone who doesn't appear to be a "pen person" and so will assume the sac will need replacing.  have looked this up online and have seen people saying they removed the nib and feed first to replace the sac and others saying they didn't... I'd rather replace the sac myself, if at all possible.

 

My question. With a Swan lever model, can I replace the sac without removing the nib and feed?

[Greenie]

Yes.  For every lever filler,  remove the entire section with the nib and feed still in place.  clean out all the  old sac from the inside of the barrel.  Clean the old sac of the section nipple.  And replace the sac.

 

Pics would help to be sure I am not missing something odd about this particular lever filling pen.

[Pendarion]

17 hours ago, Greenie said:

Yes.  For every lever filler,  remove the entire section with the nib and feed still in place.  clean out all the  old sac from the inside of the barrel.  Clean the old sac of the section nipple.  And replace the sac.

 

Pics would help to be sure I am not missing something odd about this particular lever filling pen.

Thank you so much. This was the info I needed! Pen is on its way to me still so no pics but I was trying to figure out whether it was worth me sending for the right sized sac, ahead of its arrival or whether it's one to send away for repair. So your answer has been very helpful indeed. I have sent a MT Blackbird twist cap filler for professional restoration as I'm aware with that one, the feed and nib do need knocking out of the section but hoped I could do the lever filling Swan  myself.

 

Pendragons have advised me on sac size and type for this model so I've ordered a sac whilst waiting for the pen to arrive.

 

ETA: Seller told me the pen is a 3120. (Midnight Blue late 30s/early 40s?)

[lionelc]

3120s are nice with a usually flexxy number 1 nib, good luck with the restoration

[Pendarion]

12 hours ago, lionelc said:

3120s are nice with a usually flexxy number 1 nib, good luck with the restoration

Thanks! Predictably it has a stuck section so I am contemplating trying to(carefully and slowly) to open it myself and if I can't, will send away to be restored. I since also got on eBay a lovely "austerity" 6260 - and that too, is stuck!

 

I have some spark plug pliers. Am going to practice on something more expendable first as these are both lever fillers and unlike my twist cap Blackbird, am sure that if I can get inside, I can clean and re-sac - but so far trying with hands a rubber gloves only have been unable to open either pen... Both have lovely nibs. 

[lionelc]

that really is the most difficult thing in the restoration - to remove the section without damaging the pen.  For my last swan restoration, needed some dry heat and 2 section pliers - invaluable in not crushing the pen.  unlike celluloid pens, the chance of setting the whole thing on fire is small with a heat gun.

[Pendarion]

Phew! Got the 3120 open and, whilst I was at it, the wartime 6260, both of which I'm really excited about. Will cautiously clean then re-sac but have no intention of trying to knock out feeds. Hoping all the lever/pressure bar gubbins will be intact in there!

 

Used a little dry heat on the 3120 but it was hard to regulate the temp with a hair dryer and nothing budged so I gave up. But now my spark plug pliers have arrived and they worked fairly easily - more so with the 1950s' pen that got the dry heat, than the 1939/40 pen that didn't. 

 

Husband is a modeller so I already have a wide array of dental tools, etc to clean out the dead sacs and got Pendragons' advice on correct sac size.

 

ETA: My "expendable" Osmiroid 65 that is jammed shut, the pen I was hoping to practice on, remains firmly closed.

[lionelc]

good work @Pendariona watson cheyne is great for scraping off bits of old sac off the ebonite inner barrel

[VacNut]

An old section should come off with minimal effort by hand. Section pliers can apply too much pressure onto the barrel or section and you run a higher risk of damaging parts.

 

Many technicians do not use pliers to minimize risk.

 

Repeated dry heat is the best method. You may have to make multiple attempts. A good way to determine heat is to touch the heated pen part onto your cheek or soft skin areas. If it is too hot to the skin, then you have likely overheated the parts. Celluloid burns at 140 degrees. BHR has a higher heat tolerance. You may consider getting an inexpensive calibrated heat gun if you are concerned about applying too much heat.

 

If you have an older “junk” pen,  test how much pressure is needed from the pliers to break a BHR or celluloid loose barrel. You may be surprised.