Elecrodeposited fine silver overlays

[GlenV]

I’m quite excited after studying overlay patterns for a long bit as have plans to make some ( time…) and with a cap made in the style of a Parker 14 to have seen this pen come up for sale. It wasn’t that expensive since no feed, section, or nib and marked “sterling” although it’s fine silver. The floral pattern is very similar to a Waterman overlay of the time but does not otherwise fit with a Waterman pen. Who made it? No one could say. These pens were not made by fitting a tubular pre- engraved and cut out overlay, but the silver was actually deposited like electroplating right on the hard rubber and then the details added after. Quite amazing. 
 

[Glenn-SC]

“Deposited like electroplating”?

Are you sure?

Firstly, I would think that the melt temperature of silver would exceed the melt temperature of Hard Rubber and that the rubber would burn or melt. 
Secondly, unless this is a new “retro” pen, did the technology exist in the 1920-1930 time frame to “deposit silver” on HR?

I am confused and may be complete wrong. 

[inkstainedruth]

@GlenV I've seen a number of brands that have similar designs of overlays: Morrison, Townsend, Eclipse, Parker and Waterman -- in both sterling and either gold or gold-filled (I have two Morrison ringtops that have the gold-filled overlay, and one that has the sterling overlay).  

Someone told me that they were made by some jeweler but I don't know the company's name.  I had always assumed that the overlays were done separately and were designed so they'd just fit around the barrel and cap.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[mke]

8 hours ago, Glenn-SC said:

“Deposited like electroplating”? 

 

That is possible: https://www.sharrettsplating.com/base-materials/plastics

I cite:

"Special preparation is necessary prior to plating on plastic. The material is initially etched in a chromic acid-based solution to enhance its adhesive capabilities. Any excess chromic acid that is produced must then be neutralized. A solution consisting of palladium and tin salts is then applied to the material. Next, the surface of the material is coated with either nickel or copper from an electroless plating solution. The palladium and tin salt solution serves as catalyst when combined with the nickel or copper. The material is now ready for electroplating using standard plating technology."

"1. Preparation:
The plastic surface is first prepared by cleaning and possibly etching it to create a rougher surface for better adhesion of the conductive coating. 
2. Conductivity:
A conductive layer, such as a thin layer of metal or conductive paint, is applied to the plastic. 
3. Electroplating:
The prepared plastic part is then submerged in an electroplating solution containing metal ions (like gold, silver, or chrome). An electrical current is passed through the solution, causing the metal ions to deposit onto the conductive layer and form a metallic coating on the plastic surface. 
4. Post-Treatment:
After electroplating, additional treatments like polishing or applying a protective clear coat may be applied to enhance the appearance or durability of the final product."
 

Electroplating itself was invented early 1800 but electroplating plastic was only used from the 1960s.

 

Eventually, the pen is older than the "overlay".

 

[Glenn-SC]

4 hours ago, mke said:

 

Electroplating itself was invented early 1800 but electroplating plastic was only used from the 1960s.

 

Eventually, the pen is older than the "overlay".

 

OK, but ….

This pen’s base material is rubber, not plastic.  Does the same chemical process even work with rubber?

 

Did you mean “Evidently”?  Either way, I do not understand your final sentence.  Are you postulating that the base rubber barrel is 1920s to 1930s vintage and the “overlay” a more recent addition?

 

Applying an overlay is a mechanical process that was certainly used in the 1920s (and beyond), which I expect is the time frame for this pen.  

[GlenV]

I think you are not correct on those statements, well documented overlays of this type (electrodeposited) were made in 1890s at least until 1903. See

https://vintagepens.com/Waterman_overlay_patterns.shtml

[GlenV]

Just to say, the later overlays were probably just stamped out and some details added after in the late teens to 20’s and after. This above thread is how the earlier overlays were hand made by a jeweler (probably not later than 1920) usually from Sterling .925 since sturdier than fine silver 99%. The very early ones from Wirt and others were engraved wonderfully without perforations and slid over the barrel. 
 

How the hard rubber was made conductive for such thick plating is a different topic though… ah chemistry.

[mke]

10 hours ago, Glenn-SC said:

Did you mean “Evidently”?

I said eventually because it was just an idea of what could be done if some people wanted "to improve" their old black pens.

The electrodeposition of metals on plastic seems to have started (industrially, large-scale) in the 1960s but apparently the eletrodeposition of rubber started much earlier. I just did a search and found evidence around the early 20th century (patent, white paper). (Note: electrodeposition on plastic could also be earlier, I might have missed some evidence. I didn't do a thorough check).

 

8 hours ago, GlenV said:

How the hard rubber was made conductive

 

1) Incorporating Conductive Fillers:

Mixing conductive materials like carbon black, metal powders, or graphite into the rubber compound during its manufacture makes the rubber itself conductive. This allows for direct electroplating in some cases.
2)Surface Treatment: Applying a conductive layer to the surface of the cured rubber. This could involve:
Chemical etching and activation: Similar to plastics, to create a receptive surface for subsequent metallization.
Applying conductive paints or adhesives: A conductive paint containing metal particles or graphite can be applied, creating a conductive surface.
Pressing conductive powders: Metal powders can be pressed into the surface of uncured or partially cured rubber, becoming integrated as the rubber cures.
Electroless plating: Similar to plastics, an electroless plating step (e.g., copper or nickel) can be used to create an initial conductive layer on the rubber surface.

 

How Waterman did it? No idea. You would need to check old patents.

 

10 hours ago, Glenn-SC said:

This pen’s base material is rubber, not plastic.

Natural rubber is a polymer of isoprene units. That makes it very similar to plastic. The difference lies in the fact that rubber is an elastomer while many plastics are moldable. If you take plastic as a synonym for (synthetic) polymers - as many people do - than you are not wrong calling rubber a "plastic" too.

 

[GlenV]

Thank you for your input on this to all, Ruth you may be thinking of the Heath company.  They made overlays for several higher end pens, starting somewhere around 1905, brands with them are Heath's own brand, Waterman, Parker, and a few others, but was mostly pre Sheaffer (c1913). It is interesting that they only marked the sterling silver overlays they made and not the identical gold ones they also made.  Later overlays from the mid-teens and later I believe were not handmade generally, which makes the Heath overlays especially pretty. The amount of work and time to make the early overly pens would be significant, including electrodeposisted ones which were hand cut into the soft silver. I know that AA Waterman did have patterns that were close to LE Waterman at that time, maybe my pen was made by them. There is a pen for sale at David Nishimura's site that is somewhat similar that he attributes most likely to AA Waterman.

Overlay pens continue to be made but with laser cutting so intricate patterns can be done. If i had time (and money for the sterling) I would like to make some more, I really like silver overlays, to make gold ones would require electroplating the brass or copper and would be pretty expensive to do.

[inkstainedruth]

I'm wondering now -- do you know how late in the game Heath was continuing to make the overlays?  Because I'm guessing the Morrisons I have are probably from the 1920s or 1930s.  (The first one I bought, I actually paid MORE for than I did for my Plum Demi 51, but the guy whose table I bought it from at my first show told me that it had been restored.  And it does have a really lovely semi-flex stub nib on it.  Then, a couple of years later, I somehow dropped it in the entryway between our front porch and the door to the from hallway inside the house on the way to another show.  Lucked out and found one (although not with NEARLY as interesting a nib) at the show in a box of "parts" pens.  And those two pens, with the gold-filled overlay, are going to be somewhat famous in the future -- because they're being rented out to the production company filming a bio-pic about Milton Hershey (yes, as in Hershey's Chocolate) as props.  

Of course, the one with the really nice nib got nicknamed "Trixie" because the pen has a really nasty habit of unscrewing itself from the cap when I've got it on the lanyard (fortunately it has never landed nib down).  And of course, I paid more than for both gold-filled ones combined when I bought the one with the sterling overlay....  But I'm just a sucker for sterling silver....  Always have been. 

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[GlenV]

Richard Binder says 1900- 1915, that seems about right. 1915-16 it looks like the 14 last offered by Parker(could be old stock), Waterman I think much earlier(?) since were making their own overlays. I have 2 barrels with Heath overlays, the Parker 14 above and a AA Waterman twist filler.