Doric II Lever Filler Nib Drying Out Too Fast & Leaking Slightly From the Section, How to Disassemble It?

[Mr_PFM]

I recently got my hands on a senior size Doric II lever filler in silver & black shell. 

 

It was labeled restored by the seller and fills normally. I've re-saced lever fillers, just not Dorics. If I don't write with it for 1-2 days the nib drys out and I have to dip it in water for it to get going. It also leaks ink onto my fingers from right above where the thread are. It's only a little but has happened more than once. I just have a few questions...

 

1. Is the grip section made of ebonite or celluloid? It looks like celluloid to me. I want to make sure it's safe to soak it in water for a bit before I apply some heat and try to remove it.

 

2. Is the section simply friction fit into the barrel without threads? Is it easy to get to the sac or is there more going on than say a Sheaffer balance lever filler.

 

3. The metal ink-shut off valve on the back of the feed is stiff and doesn't move around if I try to press on or poke it. Could this be why the nib is drying out? I assume it's supposed to depress when the cap is screwed on but because it's not moving the nib isn't being going all the way into the inner cap to prevent moisture from escaping? 

 

4. Any tips for how to access the ink shut off valve & repair it? I assume there's a rubber gasket that's hardened somewhere. 

 

I would like to learn to sort this out myself

[Wahlnut]

On 1/9/2023 at 12:49 AM, Mr_PFM said:

I recently got my hands on a senior size Doric II lever filler in silver & black shell. 

 

It was labeled restored by the seller and fills normally. I've re-saced lever fillers, just not Dorics. If I don't write with it for 1-2 days the nib drys out and I have to dip it in water for it to get going. It also leaks ink onto my fingers from right above where the thread are. It's only a little but has happened more than once. I just have a few questions...

 

1. Is the grip section made of ebonite or celluloid? It looks like celluloid to me. I want to make sure it's safe to soak it in water for a bit before I apply some heat and try to remove it.

You can soak it.  You can heat it too but keep it under 160 degrees F, (to protect the barrel as much as the section) and try not to take it out by twisting.  Use well-controlled rocking motion

 

2. Is the section simply friction fit into the barrel without threads? Is it easy to get to the sac or is there more going on than say a Sheaffer balance lever filler.

On lever filler, It should be friction fit.  if it is a visualated barrel ink window model the section i either fused to an inner window or has a screw-in see through piece screwed into the section that aligns with the outer barrel window when the section is in place.  the sac attaches to the nipple on the back end of the inner windowed piece.

 

3. The metal ink-shut off valve on the back of the feed is stiff and doesn't move around if I try to press on or poke it. Could this be why the nib is drying out? I assume it's supposed to depress when the cap is screwed on but because it's not moving the nib isn't being going all the way into the inner cap to prevent moisture from escaping? 

Theres more going on that just a stiff shut-off, but is the shut-off stuck in the forward position? The shut off goes to the forward position when the cap is removed because there is a spring in the subsection collar that pushes it forward and is supposed to let the ink flow.  If the shut-off is stuck that firmly in the forward position after soaking in ammonia/water solution to dissolve any old ink, something mechanical is involved with the setting of the shut-off, nib and feed.  taking oit apart is the only way to know.

 

4. Any tips for how to access the ink shut off valve & repair it? I assume there's a rubber gasket that's hardened somewhere. 

There is a black rubber gasket seated in the inner section shelf behind the nib/feed collar, or in front of the visualated inner window piece that is usually hard and mis-shaped by now.  it comes out with difficulty as it is usually held in place by adhesion or old ink and crud.  youll need 3/16" soft rubber sheet and a punch of the correct sizes to make a new one.  

 

I would like to learn to sort this out myself

Good for you...But dont be surprised if the specific tools, and materials needed present some limitations. 😉

See some tips above in the quote.  These comments are not conclusive of encompassing...They are based on wha you say you are working on, but there are various models within the model range you describe.

Hope this helps a little

Syd