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Platinum Century 3776 Cap and Other differences


PotbellyPig
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47 minutes ago, PotbellyPig said:

Is that a wetter ink or a dryer ink?  I know nothing about inks.  I’m still contemplating whether to get a UEF to complement my Sailor EF

 

This ink is completely new to me, bought to try with the new pen.  Diamine inks, in general, have a (very) good flow. All the reviews I have read for raw sienna indicate an average to good flow, so it’s certainly not a dry ink.  Control of the ink by the pen itself (I tried several different inks this morning) is awesome.  No converter issues so far - all good.

 

Based on the little writing I have done so far, you will only need an EF; the UEF seems quite specialised, notwithstanding the Sailor EF being known as an extremely fine line nib.  (Never wanted a Sailor myself, somehow).

 

Sorry I can’t be of more help.

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1 hour ago, Peter_H said:

 

Based on the little writing I have done so far, you will only need an EF; the UEF seems quite specialised, notwithstanding the Sailor EF being known as an extremely fine line nib.  (Never wanted a Sailor myself, somehow).

 

I was told before I bought it that writing with a Sailor EF is like writing with a sharp pencil.  I like the feel.  But there is a little too much ink going on the page and/or some line width spreading going on with the standard black ink cartridge.  I have been told to try the Kiwa-Guro pigment ink as it is supposed to keep very fine lines thin.  This is just my perception.  

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I'll chime in here as someone who has used many fine and extra fine nibs in vintage Japanese pens...

 

First off, my experience is mostly with older pens that are usually unmarked as to nib width, however the *tipping* widths are easily seen and will clue an experienced user in on what to expect as far as *potential* finest line width.

 

So, here goes:  never mind the fractional millimeter width increments between F, EF, XF/UEF nib tipping, your biggest differences between these three (assuming the fine nibs in question are typical Japanese widths) is going to be how wet the feed is, how well your chosen ink flows, how much that ink feathers or spreads and the properties of the paper you're writing on.

 

I have wet writing nibs that feature microscopic tipping, yet write the equivalent of a fine and fines with stingy inkflow that wind up presenting as EF/XF when written on smoothly finished, bleed resistant papers. All of these subtleties disappear when you write on (most) cheap note paper, since it soaks the ink into the fibers, effectively spreading your lines as far as the pens inkflow allows. A heavy hand with an extremely fine nib can also break fibers in the surface of high quality papers and lead to the same sort of line spread as you get with more porous paper.

 

Remember also, that individual pens of the same stated nib size, even within a brand will vary in inkflow, as well as measured tipping width and tine gap. The big three Japanese makers have great QC, but even they show occasional sample variation!

 

I guess the upshot of all this, is that I'd suggest choosing pens that you like the look and feel of, inks that you enjoy the colors of and a tip size that won't cause trouble if you have to use it on average paper (so probably no UEF), then write with them and enjoy your pens, rather than obsessing over EF vs. UEF, or the difference between a good screw cap vs. the BEST screw cap. Once you have some time living with your early FP choices, your experiences will guide you to the next ones and eventually you may even find The One pen that makes you happiest, but don't expect that any amount of research will actually net you "The One" on the first few tries ...or if it does, quick, go play the lotto, before your incredible luck is all used up ;)

 

As to Kiwaguro vs. "standard" Sailor black (dye based formula), the standard black is more "watery" and with most papers will spread very slightly more than the nano/pigment based Sailor inks, but it's not a huge difference on good paper like Rhodia.

Maybe try a lighter hand, you might be inadvertently spreading the tines to allow more inkflow, or crushing/scraping the surface of the paper, so that ink soaks into the sizing or fibers more (or sizing residue may be building up on the nib tip, giving a wider, sloppier line).

It's easy to forget how little pressure a fountain pen requires to write well, especially if you also use paste/grease based ink ballpoints regularly.

 

 

David-

 

So many restoration projects...

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6 hours ago, awa54 said:

I'll chime in here as someone who has used many fine and extra fine nibs in vintage Japanese pens...

 

Good advice, borne of long experience.  Kudos.

 

So, I have now inked my #3776 (aka “The One”) with the lovely Diamine Monboddo’s Hat.  It’s a winning combination, likely to be [semi-] permanent.

 

The gold-trim c/c for this pen (bought separately) is lovely - so smooth and well-fitting.  This is turning out to be great fun!

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Monboddo's Hat is a little too dark to qualify as my favorite purple, but today I'm wielding a Rotring 700 (stealth MB Noblesse Oblige) filled with Diamine Billberry.

 

I personally wouldn't want a "One Pen to Rule them All", since IMO, variety is the spice of life... though a smooth, soft fine or EF, in a mid-sized resin barrel is my default for writing ease.

 

My only owned 3776 Plats are an early production (BHR feed) and current production Gathered, they're both slip caps, both excellent writers and both have only average dry-out resistance, with the newer one being slightly more prone to drying over a week or more of disuse. Needless to say, neither is close to being The One, but I like the barrel design and feel in hand, so they stay!

 

I'd like to eventually find a nice ebonite feed, black resin/GT model, but haven't seen one at the right price recently :(

David-

 

So many restoration projects...

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On 10/20/2021 at 9:10 PM, awa54 said:

Monboddo's Hat is a little too dark to qualify as my favorite purple, but today I'm wielding a Rotring 700 (stealth MB Noblesse Oblige) filled with Diamine Billberry.

 

Not tried Bilberry; I tend to go for saturated colours since these always look good with an EF line.  So, for example, Raw Sienna is a bit “under” for me - I may go back to Macassar.

 

 

 

On 10/20/2021 at 9:10 PM, awa54 said:

I personally wouldn't want a "One Pen to Rule them All", since IMO, variety is the spice of life... though a smooth, soft fine or EF, in a mid-sized resin barrel is my default for writing ease.

 

Of course, everyone is different, thank goodness.  For me, finding “The One” does not mean neglecting my other pens.  Indeed, the way thing are organised here, my FC Hexo (inked in Obsidian) will usually get more paper time than my 3776 (inked in Monboddo’s Hat).  All my pens are, at a minimum, “good” writers - it is just that my Platinum is exceptional!  Doesn’t stop me enjoying the feel of a Waterman or a LAMY in my hand, though.  The only real difference now is that I no longer have an urge to actively expand my small collection.  Of course, if I stumble across something, that may be different but FOMO and seeking the next “big thing” have gone.  Won’t stop me browsing pens, of course - that is fun as well!

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3 hours ago, Peter_H said:

 

Not tried Bilberry; I tend to go for saturated colours since these always look good with an EF line.  So, for example, Raw Sienna is a bit “under” for me - I may go back to Macassar.

 

 

 

Billberry is a nicely saturated purple-blue, just not as deep and dark as Monboddo's

Sort of like a purple-dominant Sargasso Sea

 

It's not that I don't use very dark colors, I just like ones with more brightness to show that saturation off better

David-

 

So many restoration projects...

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