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Did I damage the Pelikan M200 nib?


Mysterious Mose

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1 hour ago, sansenri said:

one more thing

"Sorry, but I can't provide any pictures."

why not?

"you can't" meaning you don't know how to post pictures in the forum or which other reasons?

 

 

(cell phones take good pictures nowadays, the very quick way, in emergency, although the regular approach should be to create an image album, is take a picture, and just copy and paste it in the post! - don't do this regularly as the space dedicated to each member to do that is limited...)

Sansenri--

 

1.  Thank you for all that information and the links.

 

As to adjusting the alignment between the feed and the nib, I called Rick Propas (Penguin) yesterday and asked him how to do it.  His response, "You can't.  I can," either by applying heat or by moving the metal.  $45.00.

 

Wasupen said he could send me another nib in November, after he returns to Greece from Germany, for a price we'll determine then, or I could buy a feed-nib from Propas or elsewhere, but ... too much tsuris (aggregation) and $ already, over a pen that should have written when I got it.

 

2.  Pictures.  My computer is out of commission (it's dead).  I could take pictures with my DSLR camera, my film cameras or this smartphone, but how do I do post- processing and, most important, how do I upload it to the forum?  I would love to find out how.

Dan Kalish

 

Fountain Pens: Pelikan Souveran M805, Pelikan Petrol-Marble M205, Santini Libra Cumberland, Waterman Expert II, Waterman Phileas, Waterman Kultur, Stipula Splash, Sheaffer Sagaris, Sheaffer Prelude, Osmiroid 65

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On 10/10/2021 at 5:46 PM, Mysterious Mose said:

Senzen

 

What I do with Pelikans is return ink to the bottle, unscrew the nib assembly and clean the piston with water, then run the nib assembly under the tap. I then fill a cup of water with a single drop of dishwashing liquid, fill the reassembled pen with that, and repeat until the water comes out clear. Finally I dry with a lint free if possible paper towel and move the piston to dry the nib assembly.

 

"The trouble with the world is that the stupid are cocksure and the intelligent are full of doubt."

 

B. Russell

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Well, I've decided to return the pen.  I wrote to Wasupen telling him that.

 

Let's hope the cancellation goes smoothly.

Dan Kalish

 

Fountain Pens: Pelikan Souveran M805, Pelikan Petrol-Marble M205, Santini Libra Cumberland, Waterman Expert II, Waterman Phileas, Waterman Kultur, Stipula Splash, Sheaffer Sagaris, Sheaffer Prelude, Osmiroid 65

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3 hours ago, Mysterious Mose said:

Well, I've decided to return the pen.  I wrote to Wasupen telling him that.

 

Let's hope the cancellation goes smoothly.

Except now he wrote that he might get me a replacement nib in the next few days.  So I'll hold off on cancelling with eBay.

 

Dan Kalish

 

Fountain Pens: Pelikan Souveran M805, Pelikan Petrol-Marble M205, Santini Libra Cumberland, Waterman Expert II, Waterman Phileas, Waterman Kultur, Stipula Splash, Sheaffer Sagaris, Sheaffer Prelude, Osmiroid 65

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On 10/16/2021 at 5:15 PM, Mysterious Mose said:

Sansenri--

 

1.  Thank you for all that information and the links.

 

As to adjusting the alignment between the feed and the nib, I called Rick Propas (Penguin) yesterday and asked him how to do it.  His response, "You can't.  I can," either by applying heat or by moving the metal.  $45.00.

 

Wasupen said he could send me another nib in November, after he returns to Greece from Germany, for a price we'll determine then, or I could buy a feed-nib from Propas or elsewhere, but ... too much tsuris (aggregation) and $ already, over a pen that should have written when I got it.

 

2.  Pictures.  My computer is out of commission (it's dead).  I could take pictures with my DSLR camera, my film cameras or this smartphone, but how do I do post- processing and, most important, how do I upload it to the forum?  I would love to find out how.

 

I believe you can upload pictures from the smart phone

perhaps someone more used to the process might help, as I do prefer to save my photos, whether taken with a camera or smartphone, on the PC, then upload them to the forum gallery and then select them from there.

 

The process should be similar however, I would suggest you create an image album (in the top bar select gallery and proceed from there - possibly on android rather than a bar there is a menu to select if I recall).

You then select "add images" and browse to your image on the phone and upload the photo you want.

When in your post, click on "other media" (right hand corner), insert "existing attachment", "gallery images", then select the image.

Rick seems to confirm the fact that disassembling a Pelikan nib group is not such a simple matter (unless you know how to).

At the asking price however you might as well buy a new steel nib, which will cost you much less (about 25 euro).

 

If you do get a replacement nib from the seller that should settle it.

The matter here is very much depending on whether the nib did not write when you got it, in which case you should get a FOC replacement, or whether you tampered with it, in which case I would expect paying for a replacement is due.

In whichever case, don't get rid of the faulty nib, you might be able to learn how to fix it in future...

 

Oh, and yes, in case the nib swap does not work, remember to tell the seller that he might still receive the pen back... (if the fault is in the pen...)

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On 10/17/2021 at 2:15 AM, Mysterious Mose said:

I could take pictures with my DSLR camera, my film cameras or this smartphone, but how do I do post- processing and, most important, how do I upload it to the forum?

 

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Done!  I returned the pen and got my money back.

 

Dan Kalish

 

Fountain Pens: Pelikan Souveran M805, Pelikan Petrol-Marble M205, Santini Libra Cumberland, Waterman Expert II, Waterman Phileas, Waterman Kultur, Stipula Splash, Sheaffer Sagaris, Sheaffer Prelude, Osmiroid 65

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I've never had a problem with my old semi-vintage nor modern 200's, so don't let this throw you off of 200's.

 

IMO I don't know why that replacement nib you wanted didn't work. Nor why you didn't want the better original....even if it's only the slightest tad more springy; folks go out their way to get W. Germany nibs.

 

But IMO had you kept the original and better nib, you'd not had any problems. The nib had been tested back in the day of the Ye Old Corner Pen Shoppe, so would have been replaced immediately had there been a problem.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, Bo Bo Olson said:

I've never had a problem with my old semi-vintage nor modern 200's, so don't let this throw you off of 200's.

 

IMO I don't know why that replacement nib you wanted didn't work. Nor why you didn't want the better original....even if it's only the slightest tad more springy; folks go out their way to get W. Germany nibs.

 

But IMO had you kept the original and better nib, you'd not had any problems. The nib had been tested back in the day of the Ye Old Corner Pen Shoppe, so would have been replaced immediately had there been a problem.

I liked the pen and will keep my eyes open for another M200.

 

I didn't know the original nib was "better" and would have been in demand.  All I knew was that Fine is my usual preferred size, and I don't think I would like an Oblique Broad.  Once we agreed the Pen was defective, I asked Wasupen for the OB nib.  However, he was in Germany and the nib was in Greece and I didn't want to wait much longer.  I would still not have it by today.  He doesn't expect to return to Greece until Tuesday. Also, there is no assurance that the pen would write even with the original OB nib.

 

Bo Bo, what do you mean about Ye Olde Corner Pen Shoppe?

 

Even after I realigned the feed and nib and dunked the nib in ink, it only write for about one page.  It didn't seem to take any ink from the piston-reservoir.  This went on multiple times.

 

Dan Kalish

 

Fountain Pens: Pelikan Souveran M805, Pelikan Petrol-Marble M205, Santini Libra Cumberland, Waterman Expert II, Waterman Phileas, Waterman Kultur, Stipula Splash, Sheaffer Sagaris, Sheaffer Prelude, Osmiroid 65

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1 hour ago, Mysterious Mose said:

Ye Olde Corner Pen Shoppe?

Once the world was full of fountain pen shops.....some were in the middle of the block, not at the corner. Some of course were right on the corner, and of a busy street.

 

So you bought your pen, had it repaired where you bought it.

 

In Germany there were salesmen who had a three year or more apprenticeship; so knowing their job of selling, learned to do minor pen maintenance....as part of the job; would know inks and papers and so on.

 

Of course back in the Day, it was One Man, One Pen; bought new every decade. So the shop wanted to be remembered by you for when your pen was old fashioned or the nib had become worn; gave best service. A place to buy ink and good paper.

 

Those days are long gone; with luck if you have a B&M, they might know a repair person, if the problem is not send it back to the maker.

 

cccccccccccccccccc

Right now you like F, but on the 200 a B is still a writing nib, not a signature nib of a modern fatter gold nib nibs.

Sooner or later you will get an M; especially if you get some classic rough paper like laid or linen effect. There a B shines even more.

Of Course......you will some day want some Verge de France.............or Southworth Linen effect paper....it's a mountain that has to be climbed.... It is there.

 

I do suggest for every three inks you buy you buy a ream or a 100 sheet box of good to better papers...In no time at all you will have a paper collection worth writing home about.

 

I of Course, did it all wrong. First lots of pens, then lots of inks...and finally had to run to catch up with the paper.

Writing is 1/3 nib width&flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

It is so bad that Sandy1 The Com's Ink Guru, died and her heirs took down her pictures, in they didn't know how important she and her pictures were to  fountain pen users.

 Sandy used 4-5 normal width pens, on 4-5 good to better papers. It was often amazing, that it was the same ink; in nib width and paper made that big of a difference.

She had developed a perfect ink review form.

(A B adds pizzazz to your writing ....with the right ink and paper. Uh, la-la. :rolleyes:)

 

I did not like thin nibs wen I came back to fountain pens after a life time of ball point use. I ended up getting F's as place holders...Same with EF's; but am glad I have a few EF's....I don't have a lot, 3-4 (not counting superfelx) , regular flex, semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex...which with my slightly heavy hands turns that EF of a maxi, into a F.:doh:

I will admit not to using my OBB or BB nibs much any more. No problem with B or OB.

 

I've actually come to like M nibs.:unsure: They are very disrespected in many come into fountain pens with an M and move to fat or skinny on the next pen.

 

To get a thinner line, use a slick paper like Rhoda or Clairefontaine Triumphe, and a dry ink like Pelikan 4001 or Lamy inks (What ever you do...Do Not Buy Lamy Green!!!)

 

As far as I can remember, no one asks how do I get a fatter line....I'd guess, a wet ink and poor paper.....or 100% cotton might do that trick for better paper.....wider nib is the easy answer.

 

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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