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What for? M, B nibs


mke

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As I define.

 

Bleed though, you really can't write over it and be able to read anything. Not really that often on medium paper say 90g or better and with medium (MB) to dry ink (4001).

Wet inks and there are Noodler inks and perhaps others that make the Noodler Fans ...like the once wet Waterman, think of as a 'dry ink'.:yikes:

I don't know enough about Japanese inks to know which ones are wet on the Noodler's scale of wet inks. From what I gather there are many wet Japanese inks....in they use a super skinny nib on a tiny printed script.

Waterman was considered wet because Waterman made for the time a narrow nib to match it's wet ink.

 

Superwet inks will bleed through where a dry ink wont.

 

 

Ghosting .... can if you want read part of a word on the other side. Is not bleed through in you can write on the back side; and read what you wrote.

 

 Echo....little dots here and there....from wet letter starts....can write easily on the back side.

 

If you have bleed through, it is fault of either or both ink and paper.

.

....a wet nib like a Pelikan nib....designed for a dry ink.....if used with a wet ink...............is a bad combo...........but many insist on using a super wet ink on a wet writing nib and then blaming the nib for their problems.

Pelikan's modern nibs are not best for wet Japanese inks....is an impression I have.

One has to match the ink to the nib, or the nib to the ink.....and good to better paper makes a big difference.

 

I may be doing that with out a thought, but I can't even remember the last time I had bleed through.....even ghosting.....

I do understand how a wet ink makes a nib float, like butter smooth, but if you buy that effect.....don't use poor paper.

 

I have an Artus Ballit, that I've not used in a decade. It was a good run of the mill # 92 steel nib (have a gold #92 Artus nib somewhere but gold vs good steel in regular flex  are the same. IMO. Not worth the small effort of pull the old steel nib out to put in the gold.)

With dryer ink one has more paper feeling, with the wet Iroshizuku Kon-peki ink, that nib was much smoother.

I do though use better paper ..... and being retired is not using crud office paper. I use 90g/24 pound paper now in my printer....

Et only costs $/E3.50 for a ream of 80g, twice that for 90g.....at 500 sheets of paper.....a whole beer in a bar more.

 

And if poor paper at work bothers you....bring your own...pop it into the printer and print out for your use on your own better paper, then remove your personal paper from the printer....

 

OR one could use a dryer ink.....like 4001.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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On 7/15/2021 at 7:15 PM, dkatiepowellart said:

I have no more bleed through with my M, B, or my favorite, the stub, than I do with the couple of F's I have.  It seems to be more about the paper than the nib.  I added this stub to a moonman.

 

W21 7 MOONMAN RO EUCALYPTUS 0916.JPG

 

By the way, what is the ink in this shot?  

http://www.aysedasi.co.uk

 

 

 

 

She turned me into a newt.......

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