Montegrappa Otto Extra Shiny Lines and Extra 1930 Bamboo Black

[a student]

Both excellent and attractive pens, and therefore desirable. Any ideas on how to draw up an objective preference between the two?

[Arcadian]

Well, if you like to write with your pens posted, I would suggest the Otto. 

 

I have both, and the piston knob is prone to loosening, so it rattles a bit, which is annoying (and inexusible in a pen so expensive). When you post the cap on the Otto, the geometric design will help keep the cap in place, without any movement around the pen's axis, which in the first place will help to avoid the piston knob loosening, and secondly, if it does become loose, will allow you to post the cap without the loose knob causing it to move about. 

 

Finally, while the Bamboo Black is georgeous, the Shiny Lines Otto is breathtaking! 

 

 - P. 

[MoriartyR]

They are both the same pen, just with different celluloids and a different shape (the Extra 1930 is round and the Extra Otto is octagonal). So there can’t be any objective basis for choosing, other than the fact that the Extra Otto is more expensive and the Shiny Lines version is a limited edition of 888 (if that matters). The decision is really just a question of which look you prefer.

 

They are both superb and beautiful pens. Buy both, in whatever order you like.

 

[a student]

59 minutes ago, Arcadian said:

Well, if you like to write with your pens posted, I would suggest the Otto. 

 

I have both, and the piston knob is prone to loosening, so it rattles a bit, which is annoying (and inexusible in a pen so expensive). When you post the cap on the Otto, the geometric design will help keep the cap in place, without any movement around the pen's axis, which in the first place will help to avoid the piston knob loosening, and secondly, if it does become loose, will allow you to post the cap without the loose knob causing it to move about. 

 

Finally, while the Bamboo Black is georgeous, the Shiny Lines Otto is breathtaking! 

 

 - P. 

Thank you for your thoughts, and your assessment re "breathtaking". I am a little puzzled though about the quality control that lets through the rattling piston knob. Is it just your pen or a more general issue you think? I ask because in fpupulin's excellent and exhaustive review of the shiny lines and its stub nib, this problem did not come up to the best of my memory.

[a student]

1 hour ago, MoriartyR said:

They are both the same pen, just with different celluloids and a different shape (the Extra 1930 is round and the Extra Otto is octagonal). So there can’t be any objective basis for choosing, other than the fact that the Extra Otto is more expensive and the Shiny Lines is a limited edition of 888 (if that matters). The decision is really just a question of which look you prefer.

 

They are both superb and beautiful pens. Buy both, in whatever order you like.

 

One cannot fault the excellent advice you offer: 'buy both'. Absolutely. And that is indeed the plan, but one must bear in mind that not all plans materialise for any number of reasons. And hence, as a matter of abundant caution, the need to prioritise. Otto is indeed more expensive as you say though not an awful lot more to be a decisive factor, and the limited number thing is not as material as the aesthetic and the functional aspects. Functionally, I would have thought, that there is not likely to be any difference, though the piston knob rattle issue has been raised re the Otto.

[MoriartyR]

The piston system on both pens is the same. It is a ratcheted system where the piston knob rotates with audible clicks and does not move outwards, so it’s different from most piston systems. The piston knobs can sometimes wiggle maybe a millimetre or so - on either model. In any case the piston knob is designed to operate with quite light effort and it turns easily.

 

I think what Arcadian is saying (and I just checked with mine) is that the Extra 1930 cap posts onto the piston knob and the Extra Otto cap posts more deeply, onto the barrel. So with the Extra 1930 you might accidentally turn the piston knob a little when you post the cap, or the cap might wiggle very slightly.

 

Doesn’t really matter, but it is a difference that I hadn’t noticed since I never post my pens. If you do post the cap then I agree with Arcadia that the Extra Otto posts a bit more securely than the Extra 1930 because it attaches to the pen body rather than the piston knob.

 

[MoriartyR]

28 minutes ago, newstudent said:

One cannot fault the excellent advice you offer: 'buy both'. Absolutely. And that is indeed the plan, but one must bear in mind that not all plans materialise for any number of reasons. And hence, as a matter of abundant caution, the need to prioritise. Otto is indeed more expensive as you say though not an awful lot more to be a decisive factor, and the limited number thing is not as material as the aesthetic and the functional aspects. Functionally, I would have thought, that there is not likely to be any difference, though the piston knob rattle issue has been raised re the Otto.

I guess if you did want to buy both eventually then it may make sense to buy the Shiny Lines quite soon because it will become less available over time. Then again, Montegrappa could always produce a similar pen with the same celluloid in future if they still have stock of this celluloid.

 

[a student]

2 hours ago, MoriartyR said:

...  it may make sense to buy the Shiny Lines quite soon because it will become less available over time. Then again, Montegrappa could always produce a similar pen with the same celluloid in future if they still have stock of this celluloid.

 

Many thanks for your thoughts. Need to mull over this a bit. Incidentally, my Extra 1930 piston knob or blind cap is a trifle loose (and I thought this was peculiar to my pen perhaps from use) but the play does not bother me as it does no harm

[como]

I don't have the Otto, but I don't think the 1930 is meant to be posted. They are both so beautiful. Buy both, or buy Otto first (only because I don't have it😀)! Piston is a captive converter type. Be careful not to overturn it when the piston seal reaches the end.

[a student]

4 hours ago, como said:

I don't have the Otto, but I don't think the 1930 is meant to be posted. They are both so beautiful. Buy both, or buy Otto first (only because I don't have it😀)! Piston is a captive converter type. Be careful not to overturn it when the piston seal reaches the end.

Thank you. Liked your reasoning actually!

[a student]

Opted to go for the Otto Shiny Lines, being the general drift of comments received and my thinking too.

 

Now any advice on a stub nib would be welcome. I see from posts that the stub produces nice line variation. To check out, I tried a steel 1.1 stub with a Rotring pen, it does produce line variation but it also leaves a scratchy and staccato feeling. Perhaps the Rotring 1.1 steel stub is not the best sample to go by?

[christam]

I haven't tried a Rotring FP but did have a Montegrappa Elmo with steel 1.1 stub which was a nasty, scratchy writer.  It went back to the retailer for a refund.  

 

The two gold 1.1 stubs I've got now are on a Miya 450 (number 6 nib) and a Ferracina (number 8 nib, the same as the Extras).  If I had to choose between them it would be the larger nib but not by much because both are delightful in use. Both, however, needed a touch of smoothing after delivery, which surprised me.  Perhaps I was just a little unlucky because the M and two B nibs on my Extras were all perfect straight out of the box.  Would I recommend the 1.1 gold stub?  Yes, absolutely.

[a student]

4 hours ago, christam said:

I haven't tried a Rotring FP but did have a Montegrappa Elmo with steel 1.1 stub which was a nasty, scratchy writer.  It went back to the retailer for a refund.  

 

The two gold 1.1 stubs I've got now are on a Miya 450 (number 6 nib) and a Ferracina (number 8 nib, the same as the Extras).  If I had to choose between them it would be the larger nib but not by much because both are delightful in use. Both, however, needed a touch of smoothing after delivery, which surprised me.  Perhaps I was just a little unlucky because the M and two B nibs on my Extras were all perfect straight out of the box.  Would I recommend the 1.1 gold stub?  Yes, absolutely.

Thank you for sharing your experience. So gold should make a difference, if I understand you correctly. You also mention that your two gold ones "needed a touch of smoothing". I take it you managed this smoothing through just regular use; correct?

[Frank C]

2 hours ago, newstudent said:

Thank you for sharing your experience. So gold should make a difference, if I understand you correctly. You also mention that your two gold ones "needed a touch of smoothing". I take it you managed this smoothing through just regular use; correct?

Gold nibs are not inherently better than stainless steel. Some companies make really great stainless steel-nabbed pens. There are many pages on this subject all over FPN. Most nibs have some sort of tipping material, the gold or stainless steel doesn't touch the paper. Pens with gold nibs are more expensive because of the material; in theory, the manufacturers may spend more time getting them just right, but not all the time. 

 

Montegrappa has a nib exchange program, but you may have to send the pen to Italy to exchange it. 

[como]

@newstudentI had an MG Malachite which had a stub 1.1 which was very nice out of the box. My MG Turtle Brown’s B wrote very dry out of the box. I bought both new. The Turtle Brown went to Montegrappa and they were very kind and swapped to a very nice smooth M for me when I asked. Peter Zanesco at MG is a very nice.
 

I would say that when you buy, make sure you get it from a place where the dealer/seller is willing to at least dip test the nib for you to make sure that it writes well. If it’s very scratchy or too sharp, they would know it. If you get the pen and decide that the nib is not the way how it should write, please don’t tweak it yourself (unless you bought it used without any warranty). Contact Montegrappa first. Tinkering with your pen will void the warranty (yes they look and know!). MG repair outside warranty can be very expensive.

 

Also strangely the same diamond imprint nibs can feel very pleasant and smooth, or rather rigid. Best if the dealer can indulge your request to dip test it. The business end of a pen has to be right, otherwise it’s a real turn-off, especially for such an expensive pen.

 

Be gentle with the captive converter piston, especially when it reaches the ends. I never had problems but I know people who dislodged it and again the repair would be expensive. 

 

Montegrappy Otto and 1930 Extra are stunningly beautiful pens. Of course we take plunge for things we love in life, but still jumping with our eyes open so we can minimize any unpleasant experience that can dampen our joy.

[a student]

4 hours ago, Frank C said:

Gold nibs are not inherently better than stainless steel. Some companies make really great stainless steel-nabbed pens. There are many pages on this subject all over FPN. Most nibs have some sort of tipping material, the gold or stainless steel doesn't touch the paper. Pens with gold nibs are more expensive because of the material; in theory, the manufacturers may spend more time getting them just right, but not all the time. 

 

Montegrappa has a nib exchange program, but you may have to send the pen to Italy to exchange it. 

 

1 hour ago, como said:

@newstudentI had an MG Malachite which had a stub 1.1 which was very nice out of the box. My MG Turtle Brown’s B wrote very dry out of the box. I bought both new. The Turtle Brown went to Montegrappa and they were very kind and swapped to a very nice smooth M for me when I asked. Peter Zanesco at MG is a very nice.
 

I would say that when you buy, make sure you get it from a place where the dealer/seller is willing to at least dip test the nib for you to make sure that it writes well. If it’s very scratchy or too sharp, they would know it. If you get the pen and decide that the nib is not the way how it should write, please don’t tweak it yourself (unless you bought it used without any warranty). Contact Montegrappa first. Tinkering with your pen will void the warranty (yes they look and know!). MG repair outside warranty can be very expensive.

 

Also strangely the same diamond imprint nibs can feel very pleasant and smooth, or rather rigid. Best if the dealer can indulge your request to dip test it. The business end of a pen has to be right, otherwise it’s a real turn-off, especially for such an expensive pen.

 

Be gentle with the captive converter piston, especially when it reaches the ends. I never had problems but I know people who dislodged it and again the repair would be expensive. 

 

Montegrappy Otto and 1930 Extra are stunningly beautiful pens. Of course we take plunge for things we love in life, but still jumping with our eyes open so we can minimize any unpleasant experience that can dampen our joy.

Good advice. 

 

I am buying new from a MG authorised dealer, and there is a 2 week lead time. I have requested the dealer to ink the pen, try out the nib, and have it replaced if it is not functioning as would be expected. This should avoid any back and forth. The pen should be with me in 2 to 3 weeks I think

 

I have asked for a Fine nib as I do have some understanding of F, M and B nibs from experience (therefore I see F as a safe option). The Rotring 1.1 stub was not going well for me, and I honestly do not have the experience to take the plunge with 1.1 stub much as I like the writing samples. May be I'll try it on another pen after I have had more experience 

[como]

3 hours ago, newstudent said:

 

Good advice. 

 

I am buying new from a MG authorised dealer, and there is a 2 week lead time. I have requested the dealer to ink the pen, try out the nib, and have it replaced if it is not functioning as would be expected. This should avoid any back and forth. The pen should be with me in 2 to 3 weeks I think

 

I have asked for a Fine nib as I do have some understanding of F, M and B nibs from experience (therefore I see F as a safe option). The Rotring 1.1 stub was not going well for me, and I honestly do not have the experience to take the plunge with 1.1 stub much as I like the writing samples. May be I'll try it on another pen after I have had more experience 

Sounds good and very sensible. Good luck and enjoy your new pen! I agree that if Stub 1.1 is a rather unfamiliar grind to you, don’t try it on MG Otto. It’s like going to battle with a never fired weapon 😀!

[a student]

17 minutes ago, como said:

Sounds good and very sensible. Good luck and enjoy your new pen! I agree that if Stub 1.1 is a rather unfamiliar grind to you, don’t try it on MG Otto. It’s like going to battle with a never fired weapon 😀!

 

Thank you for your good wishes como

[fpupulin]

I come a bit late to the party, newstudent, so I see you already bought your pen. Which one you decided for eventually?

Please do not forget posting some pics of your new pen, just to follow with this so friendly thread…

[a student]

23 minutes ago, fpupulin said:

I come a bit late to the party, newstudent, so I see you already bought your pen. Which one you decided for eventually?

Please do not forget posting some pics of your new pen, just to follow with this so friendly thread…

Shiny Lines with a Fine nib. Ordered with Fontoplumo- they had not received it from the supplier (I assume Montegrappa) as of yesterday.

Sure I'll post photos, though my poor photography is not going to do the pen any credit I suspect. Hopefully it should be with me in a week or so