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Adding grip to the all-metal section of a Pilot Murex


tubuliferous
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Hey folks, I'd like to hear your recommendations for a clear, thin, reversible (probably polymer) grip that I can apply to the all-metal section of a Pilot Murex. I love the pen, but it tends to get oily over time and to slip a little between my fingers. Anything I add to enhance the grip will need to be very thin so that the pen still properly snaps closed. Any ideas? Thanks!

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That is the downside to pens with metal sections and especially the Myu. For that reason alone it is difficult for me to use.

 

Whatever you use will need to be thin enough for the cap to close and not be located where the cap will abrade the coating. Two thoughts: Some rollerball pens come with rubber grip areas that can be removed from the pen. See if you can find one that fits. Probably need to cut to fit. Second thought is an applied coating. There are all sorts of industrial coatings on the market. Don't think they are cheap or come in little tiny cans. You might be able to get samples for free. Try hobby shops and ask what they suggest. If you find something remember surface preparation is key to success.

stan

Formerly Ryojusen Pens
The oldest and largest buyer and seller of vintage Japanese pens in America.


Member: Pen Collectors of America & Fuente, THE Japanese Pen Collectors Club

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How about changing your fingers rather than the pen? For longer sessions, cohesive tape/bandage is a great way to improve grip, or for a quick fix, how about a little pot of gym chalk to just rub your fingers from time to time?

 

I wouldn't do anything that could alter the profile of the pen or the effectiveness of the cap - especially if you might ever want to sell it. 

 

Alternatively, I have very dry hands, and would be only too happy to use it on your behalf for as long as you like ;)

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Along the lines of changing your fingers, you could try a grip lotion like this: https://www.dryhands.com/

 

The effect is like gym chalk, without the mess.  Don't think you can just apply it to the pen though, you have to keep reapplying it to your hands.

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  • 6 months later...

My hold when using the Myu is high on the "section" close to the center joint, this makes the taper toward the nib portion of the section a non-issue, but requires a different writing technique from what most people these days use.

 

As all have mentioned, the section has to remain clean of any added material, since the spring fingers that assist in cap retention slide across the section whenever it's capped... you could potentially roughen the texture of the section, adding a coarser pattern to the brushed finish, but it would alter the look and collectability of the pen, not to mention the fact that the texture would be burnished smooth over time by the spring fingers.

David-

 

So many restoration projects...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Funny, I have no problems gripping the Myurex...  but my biggest issue is that I prefer having the pen posted, and the webbing of my hand eventually knocks the cap loose...  so it's not good for writing more than a line or two.  I do like it for work b/c sometimes we still have a form to fill and it's hard enough to fill the duplicate.  

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On 12/15/2021 at 6:31 PM, awa54 said:

My hold when using the Myu is high on the "section" close to the center joint, this makes the taper toward the nib portion of the section a non-issue, but requires a different writing technique from what most people these days use.

 

As all have mentioned, the section has to remain clean of any added material, since the spring fingers that assist in cap retention slide across the section whenever it's capped... you could potentially roughen the texture of the section, adding a coarser pattern to the brushed finish, but it would alter the look and collectability of the pen, not to mention the fact that the texture would be burnished smooth over time by the spring fingers.

Am wondering if the pen should not be held tightly. For me, the tighter I hold the section the easier for the pen to slip from my grip.

 

Question: As the pens were made for the Japanese market do Japanese hold their pens less tight than westerners?

 

You may wonder why there were many new Myu available for sale over the past ten to twenty years. My hypothesis is the pen didn't sell well. The lack of grip may be one reason.

Thoughts?

stan

Formerly Ryojusen Pens
The oldest and largest buyer and seller of vintage Japanese pens in America.


Member: Pen Collectors of America & Fuente, THE Japanese Pen Collectors Club

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I've had a similar problem with other metal grip sections, including the newer Parker Sonnet models.

 

I have wondered about applying some clear nail varnish to add grip, which could later be removed with acetone. 

 

Has anyone tried this?

✒️ :happyberet:

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I had a similar problem with a Faber Castell Loom which also has a snap cap. I added heatshrink tubing but put it higher up so the non-slip is happening where the barrel rests between thumb and forefinger.

 

loom1.jpg.922ffa423bbcfcc926a10f119e86cc44.jpgloom2.jpg.bf10b810e21de23ee14fc2c36b2f734f.jpg

It's all about the greys...

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Shrink tube is a great solution for that pen!

 

The rub is that pocket pens pretty much need to be posted to use them comfortably so the only place to add it would be to the lower portion of the cap.

 

Just to clarify, are we talking about a Myu (pocket pen with no ribbing on the section), or an actual Murex (slim, but full length pen with ribbing on the section)?

Often people refer to both types simply as "Murex".

I had been assuming the pen in question is a Myu, since the Murex already has integral grip enhancement features.

 

This also points out that others before us weren't completely satisfied with the Myu's handling, since Pilot did a redesign that addressed both gripping inadequacies and cap wobble while posted.

David-

 

So many restoration projects...

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