Are metal bodies more durable than plastic ones or the opposite?

[Azkim Rikschum]

What is your experience with pens with a plain metal body (e.g. Parker Jotter stainless steel) and with those that have a painted/colored metal body (e.g. Pentel Philography Turquoise)?
Do they show scratches and micro-marks after some use or are they very durable? (I'm wondering especially for the colored ones, but even the plain ones have always seemed delicate to me).
Are these pens suitable to be carried around (for example in a pencil case, or bag; at university) or are they better used in a "protected" environment such as an office or a studio where they are often sitting on the desk.

 

Edited April 29, 2021 by Azkim Rikschum

[flatline]

It is my experience that the heavier the pen/pencil, the more likely that the tip will be fatally damaged in a fall.

 

--flatline

 

[txomsy]

Only if it falls nib down 🙂

 

In my experience, metal pens are more durable, but then there is also a matter of philosophy. f you want it to look pristine, either will end up collecting scratches. What I do find is that in a metal pen I care less for those, I feel they "add" to its aesthetics, while in a resin/plastic pen they more usually "detract". But that's an altogether different way to look at it.

 

In any case, metal does not need to wear out as quickly as plastic. Finish may also count: mirror may be easier to show wear than matte finish. My, and that's only mine, experience has consistently led me to favor metal over plastic pens, but that's only because they fit more my taste and my (careless) rhythm of life.

[Honeybadgers]

Metal. I'm a paramedic, and my pens get BEATEN on. Dropped, tossed, slide off things. 

[Estycollector]

I've dropped a Lamy Al Star several times. While it is a bit scratched, I would never part. I doubt my vintage Esterbrook and Parkers would sustain such abuse. 

[BigBlot]

On 4/29/2021 at 1:01 PM, Azkim Rikschum said:

What is your experience with pens with a plain metal body (e.g. Parker Jotter stainless steel) and with those that have a painted/colored metal body (e.g. Pentel Philography Turquoise)?
Do they show scratches and micro-marks after some use or are they very durable? (I'm wondering especially for the colored ones, but even the plain ones have always seemed delicate to me).
Are these pens suitable to be carried around (for example in a pencil case, or bag; at university) or are they better used in a "protected" environment such as an office or a studio where they are often sitting on the desk.

 

Define "durable." To me, durable means it won't break in half or end up with finger impressions. Haven't left finger dents in plastic, but have in cheap "freebee" metal bodied pens. Breakage of non-fountain pens used to be enough of a problem that to this day I prefer stout metal bodied pens. But as noted elsewhere, I never broke a Sheaffer "School Pen" because the section is robust, even though it's plastic.

[austollie]

Plastics used in fountain pens age and get brittle over time.  That's true for ABS (one of the more common plastics used in pen manufacture) and it's doubly true for polycarbonate.  I collect school fountain pens from the 1970s and 1980s and embrittlement is an issue for these.  You need to treat them with more care than an equivalent modern pen.  However, it takes 3 or 4 decades for embrittlement to be an issue.

 

In terms of modern pens, when the metal wall thickness is too thin, such as for the Lamy Al-Star, the pen can be prone to getting dings in them, even when subjected to relatively small forces.  With the equivalent ABS pen (in this case the Lamy Safari) that is not the case.  

 

Overall, I have found my Parker 25 Flighter, which I bought in the late 1980s when I was at Uni, to be almost indestructible so that I don't think that there is a clear answer about which material is more robust.  It depends on how the material is used and the age of the pen.

[langere]

As @flatline and @txomsy implied, it's usually more important to worry about the nib. So plastic or metal are irrelevant for any well-built pen.  

 

That's my experience, at least...

 

Erick

[Azkim Rikschum]

For those asking for additional information to the initial question I will add some details.
I divide my pen usage into two categories:
A] "pens I use at home"
B]"pens I use outside the home" (carrying them in a mini case).

 

In category A] there is a small collection of pens that are not too expensive, varying within 30/100$, essentially with a modern design look. For example, my latest purchase is a Faber Castell E-Motion color Pure Black , just to name one. I use them to write a little analysis/performance page one evening on various life issues like work, money, physical fitness status, if there is anything more or less to do regarding love (like presents, restaurants etc), but also ideas for personal entertainment like records I want to listen to, small DIY issues I want to do for the house.... projects...  For this little moment of serenity that usually lasts fifteen to twenty minutes, I spread a small cloth similar to the green game cloth on the table and a nice pad, I choose a pen that I like and use it... the cloth makes sure that when I put the pen down between breaks it tends to stay new because it bangs on the soft. Then I put it back in the case.

It's not a matter of money, but I don't like to ruin things I like. In the background there's usually some good vinyl spinning, like Pink Floyd. Maybe I'll unwrap a chocolate and a shot of wine. It's a little healthy ritual.

 

In category B] essentially falls this little trio very sporty: the black "Noris Stick", a black "Uniball Eye" and a blue "Tratto Clip", as well as a Pentel 0.9mm micromine and an eraser. In short, three plastic pens that always look like new until the ink runs out inside, even though they whirl around each other, inside the case like clothes inside a washing machine, while I walk around town depending on what I have to do.

 

So I was wondering, if the metal pens were suitable to end up in a case using them as those without becoming "old" (ie visibly worn) after a few days or a couple of weeks. Or if on the contrary it is better to use them for personal writing moments, where they are kept safe.

Edited May 1, 2021 by Azkim Rikschum

[BigBlot]

13 hours ago, austollie said:

Plastics used in fountain pens age and get brittle over time.  That's true for ABS (one of the more common plastics used in pen manufacture) and it's doubly true for polycarbonate.  I collect school fountain pens from the 1970s and 1980s and embrittlement is an issue for these.  You need to treat them with more care than an equivalent modern pen.  However, it takes 3 or 4 decades for embrittlement to be an issue.

More info, please. I bought all of my Sheaffers in the 1970s. Is there something I need to be careful about?

[BigBlot]

4 hours ago, Azkim Rikschum said:

For those asking for additional information to the initial question I will add some details.
I divide my pen usage into two categories:
A] "pens I use at home"
B]"pens I use outside the home" (carrying them in a mini case).

 

In category A] there is a small collection of pens that are not too expensive, varying within 30/100$, essentially with a modern design look. For example, my latest purchase is a Faber Castell E-Motion color Pure Black , just to name one. I use them to write a little analysis/performance page one evening on various life issues like work, money, physical fitness status, if there is anything more or less to do regarding love (like presents, restaurants etc), but also ideas for personal entertainment like records I want to listen to, small DIY issues I want to do for the house.... projects...  For this little moment of serenity that usually lasts fifteen to twenty minutes, I spread a small cloth similar to the green game cloth on the table and a nice pad, I choose a pen that I like and use it... the cloth makes sure that when I put the pen down between breaks it tends to stay new because it bangs on the soft. Then I put it back in the case.

It's not a matter of money, but I don't like to ruin things I like. In the background there's usually some good vinyl spinning, like Pink Floyd. Maybe I'll unwrap a chocolate and a shot of wine. It's a little healthy ritual.

 

In category B] essentially falls this little trio very sporty: the black "Noris Stick", a black "Uniball Eye" and a blue "Tratto Clip", as well as a Pentel 0.9mm micromine and an eraser. In short, three plastic pens that always look like new until the ink runs out inside, even though they whirl around each other, inside the case like clothes inside a washing machine, while I walk around town depending on what I have to do.

 

So I was wondering, if the metal pens were suitable to end up in a case using them as those without becoming "old" (ie visibly worn) after a few days or a couple of weeks. Or if on the contrary it is better to use them for personal writing moments, where they are kept safe.

This isn't much of an answer, but it depends. When I bought a Metropolitan, I chose silver because I assumed it wouldn't show scratches as much as a painted metal pen. Right now there's a light scratch on it that's noticeable only if you look for it. In comparison, I once had a black painted no-name ballpoint that soon became scratched, showing brass beneath it. Because of the contrast, the black painted pen showed scratches more, and because it was a cheap paint job, it was easily scratched.

 

I have a chrome pen and pencil set I got for high school graduation that I put back into working order, and it looks just as good as the day I received it. Then again, even my Sheaffer "school pens" look good, the exception being one that once got caught a the top of a desk drawer and crazed the plastic a bit.

 

No doubt a close inspection would show light scratches on my 1970s Sheaffer pens, but since the color on the surface is the same as the material, there's no contrast and they're not noticeable.

 

How do you intend to carry your pens? A pen alone in a shirt pocket is going to be subject to less scratches than one in a trousers pocket with keys.

[austollie]

6 hours ago, BigBlot said:

More info, please. I bought all of my Sheaffers in the 1970s. Is there something I need to be careful about?

 

I don't know much about Sheaffers and the materials they use, but yes, you do need to be careful with older plastics.  I have broken the translucent polycarbonate insert on several of my 1970s and 1980s Pelikano pens.  I am yet to break an ABS section or barrel, but I do know that 1970s Lego (which is made of ABS) will break a lot more easily than modern Lego.  

 

I had one late 1980s Pelikano Model 6 pen that kept leaking and for the life of me, I couldn't work out what was happening.  When the polycarbonate section broke, I realised what had been happening, i.e. there had been a hairline crack in the polycarbonate section insert.  Something similar happened with a 1970s Pelikano Model 4.

 

Not all plastics of the same type are equal.  There are differences in additives etc. so that some batches will last longer than others, but all will eventually become more brittle than they were the day that they were made.  The good news is that you can glue the pieces back together again.  Solvent welding with MEK also works, but isn't the greatest and can cause crazing.

 

One of the daily writers is a Pelikano Model 2 from the mid-1960s.  That's held up really well.

[dadbar]

Metal pens dent. Lacquer pens scratch and chip. Plastic pens scratch and crack.

 

There is no free lunch.

 

I usually prefer lacquer pens because I like the way they feel but if I'm out and about and likely to drop things, then give me metal.

[Ethelios]

Depends, with daily use and were they're stored they can go from nearly no marks to oh my, it's still writing. Pick and use whatever you're comfortable with, if you attend any class and feel bad about carrying some vintage babe on a pocket, leave it for writing sessions at home. It's not like people stop their collection at one I had a dollar pen in my purse for years, along a tiny A6 notebook for catching writing ideas on the go. Better pen for classes (and nice paper), grial pen at home with the nice notebooks. Remember, you'll drop pens and get inky fingers, someday, somewhere.

[miwishi63]

Metal pens would best for me simply because I'm hard on pens. Modern plastics hold up fairly well in my experience. YMMV.

[1nkulus]

On 5/6/2021 at 11:36 PM, dadbar said:

Metal pens dent. Lacquer pens scratch and chip. Plastic pens scratch and crack.

 

There is no free lunch.

+1

 

I prefer metal for the heft but I have not had an issue with either, yet.

It also depends on how you use/carry them, mine are either in the coat pocket or a pen pouch in the briefcase.

[Estycollector]

I have two 1942 Parker 51 with acrylic parts.....

[JosephKing]

On 5/1/2021 at 7:10 AM, Azkim Rikschum said:

For those asking for additional information to the initial question I will add some details.
I divide my pen usage into two categories:
A] "pens I use at home"
B]"pens I use outside the home" (carrying them in a mini case).

 

In category A] there is a small collection of pens that are not too expensive, varying within 30/100$, essentially with a modern design look. For example, my latest purchase is a Faber Castell E-Motion color Pure Black , just to name one. I use them to write a little analysis/performance page one evening on various life issues like work, money, physical fitness status, if there is anything more or less to do regarding love (like presents, restaurants etc), but also ideas for personal entertainment like records I want to listen to, small DIY issues I want to do for the house.... projects...  For this little moment of serenity that usually lasts fifteen to twenty minutes, I spread a small cloth similar to the green game cloth on the table and a nice pad, I choose a pen that I like and use it... the cloth makes sure that when I put the pen down between breaks it tends to stay new because it bangs on the soft. Then I put it back in the case.

It's not a matter of money, but I don't like to ruin things I like. In the background there's usually some good vinyl spinning, like Pink Floyd. Maybe I'll unwrap a chocolate and a shot of wine. It's a little healthy ritual.

 

In category B] essentially falls this little trio very sporty: the black "Noris Stick", a black "Uniball Eye" and a blue "Tratto Clip", as well as a Pentel 0.9mm micromine and an eraser. In short, three plastic pens that always look like new until the ink runs out inside, even though they whirl around each other, inside the case like clothes inside a washing machine, while I walk around town depending on what I have to do.

 

So I was wondering, if the metal pens were suitable to end up in a case using them as those without becoming "old" (ie visibly worn) after a few days or a couple of weeks. Or if on the contrary it is better to use them for personal writing moments, where they are kept safe.

An e-motion rattling around in a case with other pens is potentially going to get it's paint finish ruined.

 

A stone washed or raw Kaweco Al Sport, a Steel Sport, a raw Karas Kustoms Ink, a stone washed titanium Namisu Ixion... no problem for your needs.

[txomsy]

On 5/1/2021 at 5:57 PM, BigBlot said:

More info, please. I bought all of my Sheaffers in the 1970s. Is there something I need to be careful about?

 

Probably not in your lifetime, if you do not abuse them.

 

My, and that's only mine, experience with plastics in an extreme continental weather is that all get brittle, whitish, fragile or even melt  sooner or later. Now, that said, I must clarify. The plastic items I've seen degrade were all exposed to the outside weather most of the time. Some might take ten or twenty years, but sooner or later they'd show the degradation. And I fear there is almost no exception...

 

But then the question becomes, do you leave your pens all time everyday outside exposed to bad weather, extremely cold in winter, extremely hot in summer, taking strong UV and IR light all day, getting damp, then frozen then melted away... ?

 

I'd bet you do not. And, most likely, that you'll keep them indoors, possibly in a drawer or box when unused, in a shadowy, temperature (more or less, say 10-40 ºC) controlled environment, and you only expose them to damaging agents when you use them to write outdoors in extreme weather. Then, it may take (possibly many) centuries for the damage to accumulate and reach a breaking point. Some lacquerware has been known to survive for seven thousand years (granted, in a pit grave or burial mound hidden from light and weather), which comes to show what a "protective" environment can achieve. Note that here, "protective" does not imply "in an inert box", many of those artifacts were buried in possibly damp soil, largely unprotected from running underground waters and soil chemicals.

 

Which is to say, most probably not in your lifetime. But note that this is just an opinion, and I may very well be absolutely wrong.

 

[1nkulus]

2 hours ago, txomsy said:

Which is to say, most probably not in your lifetime. But note that this is just an opinion, and I may very well be absolutely wrong.

I agree with the opinion, well elucidated.