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Pelikan 140 section crack

Ste_S

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Bo Bo Olson Ancient Artifact

Bo Bo Olson

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Have you tried wiggling it out like it is friction fitted instead of screwed in.

 

I have a 400NN that someone told me has a defective collar which is why it comes out like friction fit. I had put it back in and left it like that not worrying about it.

But I'd taken the nib out and put it back twice, before I learned it was not supposed to be a friction fit.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Ste_S Extremely Rare

Ste_S

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We’ll, that didn’t work well. More soaking, gave it a bit of welly, and, see picture. 
 

Collar still refusing to move, and the feed/nib turns in the collar (hence the nib coming loose) , rather than the collar moving.

 

Options? I guess the 140 is probably had it now, which leaves removing the feed and mounting it and the nib into a new collar for a M200.

7B456B42-CE1E-421D-B91B-44C851C87AEC.jpeg

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Bo Bo Olson Ancient Artifact

Bo Bo Olson

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The pen can be repaired, by a competent repairman.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Ste_S Extremely Rare

Ste_S

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Does anyone have any recommendations for someone in the UK who could repair this? Or is it a case of sending it off to Pelikan themselves?

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Bo Bo Olson Ancient Artifact

Bo Bo Olson

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I don't think .... in fact sure, Pelikan don't repair pens that old.

 

Marsh or Oldfield authors of the book 'Pen Repair', or Twydle, the son of Arthur Twydle who taught Marshall and Oldfield.

Don't have an address, don't have an address for any of those three.

 

You could contact the man I use for my pen re-corking who is also a nibmeister and repairs pens. He goes the extra mile.

Is the inverter of the Conid fountain pen.

Francis Goossen/Fountainble on the com. He's in Belgium and not overly expensive.

I sent him the pen below for re-corking and it had a broken spindle that someone superglued together. He made me a new one and didn't charge for it.

 

Send him a picture.

 

He prefers cash, and is reputable.

 

Not your problem, but....I must have had 7-8 pens re-corked by him; in he does it right..

Properly prepared  cork, boiled in oil and beeswax is the smoothest of all gaskets, and then he slathers the boiled cork with silicon grease.

Should last some 70 years if used often.......

 If you have others re-cork your pen, Insist on the formed cork be boiled in oil and beeswax.........the silicon grease was to me a new trick.

 

With permission of Penboard.de, slightly different chasing pattern on this '30's Fend, made in Milan 18k rolled gold Safety Pen.

Twist the black 'piston knob' and the nib and feed go in or out. Is an Eyedropper.UPQpECd.jpg

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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mizgeorge Antique

mizgeorge

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Francis would be a great option, but the problem with having repair work done out of the country is the risk of ending up being charged VAT/import duty on your own pen when it's returned because of the strange way the new rules are being implemented.

 

I would give Eric Wilson a shout in the first instance @eckiethump and see if he'd be able to take a look at it for you.  I certainly wouldn't give up on it yet!

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Ste_S Extremely Rare

Ste_S

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On 9/3/2021 at 2:13 PM, mizgeorge said:

I certainly wouldn't give up on it yet!

 

Would be nice if it could be repaired, as it has some sentimental value.

 

Had a week in Amsterdam a few years back, and treated myself to a M200 Cognac from Akkerman. Later in the trip, we visited Antiekcentrum, and saw a 400NN and 140 on display, which I didn't buy as I'd already bought the M200. 

My wife, unbeknownst to me, after returning to the UK, got in touch with the vendor and got them shipped over to the UK for a Christmas present for me.

 

The 400NN (brown tortoise) is a great pen that I love writing with. The nib in the 140 almost seemed better (whilst it was dunking ink on my fingers). I'll PM Erick.

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Bo Bo Olson Ancient Artifact

Bo Bo Olson

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I have 35 or so semi-flex pens and 15 maxi-semi-flex pens.

 

Regular flex one  (like a 120, '82-97 gold or the 200 steel/gold plated nibs)...one has to really mash the nib to get it to spread to 3 X a light down stroke...one can't write with the nib so mashed. Call it soft +.

Regular flex use to be normal issue for a number of pen companies even US....the Japanese call regular flex 'soft'.

 

Semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex are easiest found in German pens of the '50-70 era.

 

Semi-flex needs only half the pressure to spread it's tines out to 3 X...if one is heavy handed as I was then...:blush: it will write to 3 X....but that is not line variation On Demand......that's just heavy handedness. 

Took me some 6 week to get my hand somewhat light, more than likely 6 more weeks before I could get line variation On Demand....having a light enough Hand to demand a bit of fancy occasionally. It would be soft ++.

 

Maxi-semi-flex needs half the pressure to spread a semi-flex to 3 X or 1/4th the pressure to mash a regular flex. Soft +++.

 

IMO @ 1-in five semi-flex might well be a maxi-semi-flex.

So that might well be why the 140 writes 'better'* than your 400nn.

I do have a 400nn maxi-semi-flex OF but both my 140's were normal semi-flex as are my other earlier 400 semi-flex.

I do have maxie's in other brands.

*Wider nib??

xxxxxxxxxx

Degussa is and was the gold and silver producer in Germany. They made the gold ribbon wheels, for the pen companies.

In 1932 Degussa took over the great nib factory of Osmia for debt.  Osmai had both semi-flex and maxi-semi-flex mostly marked so. (also great steel nibs)

I think that other than being mostly exact with Osmia, anyone else who ordered a gold ribbon wheel got the first one on the wall, be it semi or maxi.

 Explains why some MB's, Geha's, Pelikans and Osmia/Osmia-Faber-Castel nibs are maxi and most are just semi-flex.

It is a WAG, but logical.........in no one but Osmia ever marked their maxie's.

 

 

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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stoen Extremely Rare

stoen

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Hello, 

Please pardon my late reaction. I’ll try to provide few useful hints.

 

Generally a prolonged ultrasound cleaning + gentle heating can help do the job. Such stuck collars are often consequences of poor maintenence and iron gall ink. Need not trash the feed. There is another possibility.

 

The collar might have cracked because it was made of clear polystyrene - many of the early 140s have been made with this engineering fault, which was corrected in the later batches. There is also a tool for safely removing the nib unit from 140, 300, 400 & post-war-100N. 

https://www.pelikan-collectibles.com/en/Pelikan/Nibs/Nib-units-since-1929/index.html

 

Once the nib unit is out, the feed and nib are separated from the broken collar, and the section is clean and dry, the crack can be repaired. However, if the section had split, and part of it chipped off, repairing this goes beyond my knowledge, experience and advising capacity.

 

There are several shops making replacement collars for vintage 140/400 pens. This is one of them:

https://www.custompenparts.co.uk/gb/pelikan/94-pelikan-compatible-connector.html

 

I’m sure Forum members will be helpful about this.

🙂

 

 

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