Pelikan m600 or m400?

[theodore94]

I just bought this pen (for $100). The seller and I were trying to figure out if it’s an m400 or m600, and I’m still not quite sure. It looks to be about 130mm with the cap on.... the difference between the m400 and m600 is so small that it’s tough to tell which side it’s on. Does anyone know? Here are a bunch of pictures (many with an m800 for comparison). 
 

Also, is there any chance it’s not real? The gold trim is a bit lighter on this pen than the m800, but this pen is “Germany” and the m800 is “West Germany”.

 

Thanks so much!

 

 

[irrigger]

Assuming you are comparing it to an M800, I would say it is an M400. For a quick comparison of sizes, this picture shows from left to right an M1000, M800, M600 and an M200(which is the same size as an M400)

[PAKMAN]

My M800 is about 140 mm, M600 about 130mm, M400 about 125.  I would say from the looks and length of it it is a M600.  And yes I would say it is the real deal. Also note that the old style M600's were the same length as a M400 but the new style are longer, I would say it is a new style M600.

[mizgeorge]

This is not hard to research for yourself. Pelikan Collectibles has all the information you need - including exact lengths capped, uncapped and posted. 

 

The Germany/West Germany production date cutoffs are also very clearly defined. 

 

https://www.pelikan-collectibles.com/

 

Similar resources exist for other brands.

 

[theodore94]

Thank you all so much! I just posted another comparison picture to match some of the others posted.
 

How do others measure these kinds of pens? I’ve tried doing it as carefully as possible using a tape measure, and it looks like it *may* be the m600... but with curved edges and only a 6mm difference, I never get it to the exact 133mm for the m600 or 127mm for the m400. @mizgeorge in that vein, I was looking for non-size based ways to distinguish between the two, like how I could use the nib to figure out my m800 was not an m1000.

 

Also, the piston is stuck. Should I attempt the same repair recommended here for the m800?

 

[PAKMAN]

Good price by the way! I would soak the nib for a bit and try to spin it out, then rinse out the chamber a while and see if it will move. A tiny tiny bit of silicon grease on a toothpick touched around the piston seal through the section will make it good as new. I added a bit of info to my first post that may help.

 

[theodore94]

1 hour ago, PAKMAN said:

Good price by the way!

Yes, I didn't know if it was an m400 or m600 so it was a bit of a gamble, but if it is an m600 then I think I got the better side of the bet!

 

I've been procrastinating on spinning the nib out from my m800 because I'm terrified of damaging it. Maybe I will give it a very careful try this weekend. Excuse me if this is a silly question but what does silicon grease do? I had been told it could fix a hairline crack in the grip of my Waterman 514. Does it just seal small holes? Do I need a particular silicon grease, or will any do (this is the cheapest option I could find: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Silicone-Grease-1-Pack-88693/dp/B000DZFUPC/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=silicone+grease+fountain+pen&qid=1617637655&sr=8-5)

 

For reference -- Thread on my Waterman 514:

 

[irrigger]

After seeing your new set of photos, I would agree it is the M600. 

[maclink]

23 minutes ago, theodore94 said:

Yes, I didn't know if it was an m400 or m600 so it was a bit of a gamble, but if it is an m600 then I think I got the better side of the bet!

 

Good on you.

 

23 minutes ago, theodore94 said:

 

I've been procrastinating on spinning the nib out from my m800 because I'm terrified of damaging it. Maybe I will give it a very careful try this weekend.

 

The nib and feed unscrew from the section as a full nib unit.  The only thing to be careful with is ensuring that you cradle the nib in your pointy finger while pressing down on the feed with your thumb.  Do this at the base of the nib and feed.  Squeeze well as you twist the body/section counter-clockwise.  I would avoid twisting the nib/feed while holding the section/body steady.  A nib/feed misalignment could result/not that you can't fix that easily.  This all comes with the territory and you should probably try this with a cheaper pen to get your confidence going.  

 

23 minutes ago, theodore94 said:

Excuse me if this is a silly question but what does silicon grease do?

 

It's primarily, just a lubricant.   An inert and water resistant lubricant.  So it's very fountain pen and ink friendly.   As a secondary effect, when used in threaded parts of pens, it can help create better seal as a secondary effect.  So you could use it to lubricate pistons in piston fillers or the little pistons in cartridge converters.  You could use it to lubricate threaded parts of pens that squeak.  If you're eye-droppering a pen, using a little silicon on the threading between body and section could improve the seal to prevent leakage of ink.

23 minutes ago, theodore94 said:

I had been told it could fix a hairline crack in the grip of my Waterman 514. Does it just seal small holes?

 

Likely wouldn't work for that sort of task.  Sounds like a task for a well selected glue.  Don't have experience there though.

 

[Bo Bo Olson]

It's not a 200 so it's a very good price....your cousin knows Somegi.

 

Take a Q-tip make a peak and use very little silicon grease, food or dive purity 100%, and less than half a rice corn, smear it around the barrel just under the piston.

Rick says you don't have to do that again more than once every 3-5 years. If that.

 

The good thing, is a semi-nail *** 600 will take a 200's nice springy regular flex nib.....or a Vintage semi-flex.....

I do find the 200's nibs to have a nicer ride and it writes with a clean like, like a semi-flex will.

 

Once you get a better nib for your 600, you can have it stubbed or made into a CI.

 

I have a baby bottomed 605 that Francis smoothed into a very nice 1.0/B stub.