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New to pen restoration help with basics


newpenner
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Hello All:

I am new to the fountain pen world, and have quickly ramped up my collection over the last year. I began with new pens, then discovered the joys (and sorrows) of vintage pen collecting. I've gotten some amazing deals and have been quite happy with my progress. I particularly love my numerous Esterbrooks with various nibs, a lovely little Arnold, Parkette, and several Sheaffer Lifetime Balance pens (all lever filled). As you can see, I don't have super high end pens, nor am I likely to, as I am on a budget.

And then...I purchased some amazing pens, for great prices, but I think they will need restoring. All of these pens come from a collection that hasn't been cleaned since the 1990's. I assume they'll need work. But I am guessing the first step is to fill them with water to see if they leak? I've been afraid to touch them. They all LOOK amazing, no scratches that I can see. Someone loved them, collected them, and cared for them, before passing away in 2000

I don't know the first thing about restoration! I could use some help here. What do I need to buy, what's the best way to go about it all?

Here are the pens I have purchased that likely need restoring (as well as the price I paid, which, as an aside, I'd like to know how well I may have done). All of the pens apparently "thread okay"

  • Parker 51 ($50)
  • Esterbrook Dollar pen with a 2048 nib  ($41)
  • Sheaffer Lifetime 51/2" black barrel with silver cap, gold trim, I think it's a piston filler system? ($79)
  • Vintage Orienta German Matching nib ($14.50)

I can include photos if it's helpful. But I wanted to get started with the conversation.

 

Thanks to everyone in advance for the help. 

 

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For the Parkerr and Esterbrook those prices could run anywhere from average price foe a pen in the wild to extremely good as in go give the seller more deals. 
 

One would need to see the pens to say more. 
 

 

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next great pen show is on schedule for August 27-28-29, 2021. If we all do what we need to do...you can Book your travel and tables and make SF 2021 the Return. 
 

 My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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    • Texas42
      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
    • Splat
      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
    • amk
      That looks pretty good. You might want to add wood as a material (with its weakness of staining) and mention urushi. And under ergonomic considerations, the size of section (slender pens vs chunky pens), and shape of section, and 'disturbances' such as the Lamy 2000 'ears' and Pilot Capless clip getting in the way might be worth mentioning. Also possibly a general section on things you can do yourself with a bit of care, with a bit of practice, and things that are strictly "don't try this a
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