I Plasti-Dipped My Gvfc Classic

[bemon]

Introducing the most reliable pen I own. It never hard starts even after sitting untouched for a week, never skips, and never leaks. The only problem is that polished metal grip section. My fingers slip and the pen tends to rotate in my grip. How much better would this pen be if the section was plastic? Or rubber? Enter Plasti-Dip, the $25 solution.

 

I didn't want to mess with this nib by trying to yank it since it's absolutely perfect. So I covered it in paper and masked it.

 

 

 

I used an empty Waterman cartridge to support the section so I didn't need to mask the whole pen barrel

 

 

 

It was late at night and the 'Dip is black, so it's hard to see but this is one freshly applied coat.

 

 

Layed to dry on my professional drying rack

 

 

After sitting over night (far longer than a single coat needs to sit for) it's a nice flat black.

 

 

The Dip cured to the masking tape and some of it peeled off when I lifted the mask, but this is the pen reassembled

 

 

I'll have to peel it off and start again since things got a little messy when I lifted the masking tape. Next time I'll apply the dip, let it sit for 20 minutes and then remove the tape after the Dip stops running, but before it fully cures.

 

Doesn't look half bad and it's a lot easier to hold on to now.

[Karmachanic]

Thank you for confirming that my aversion to metal sections is not irrational.

[bemon]

Thank you for confirming that my aversion to metal sections is not irrational.

It's completely justified. I've gotten rid of pens because of metal sections before, but this one is too good. I remember reading a blog or post somewhere about someone who buffed the polished metal section of their Lamy Studio so they could actually hold onto it. Looked good, but this is less damaging to the finish of a fairly expensive pen.

[corniche]

Hi Bemon,

 

Very interesting... it addresses one of my aversions to Lamy pens; most of their sections are slippery metal and the safari is just too fugly. It seems the German brands seem to lean towards slick metal sections.

 

 

- Sean

[JosephKing]

Nice! I considered dipping my procyon before I bedlinered it. It's good to see this option works well too. Thanks for posting this, bemon!

[bemon]

Hi Bemon,

 

Very interesting... it addresses one of my aversions to Lamy pens; most of their sections are slippery metal and the safari is just too fugly. It seems the German brands seem to lean towards slick metal sections.

 

 

- Sean

I find my L2K's quite easy to hold onto. The makrolon a little more so than the steel. But when I bought my Studio I got the palladium version to avoid the polished section. But I do wonder how some of these pens make it into production with a deliberately slippery grip section. Are they just not really supposed to be used for more than a signature?

[bemon]

Nice! I considered dipping my procyon before I bedlinered it. It's good to see this option works well too. Thanks for posting this, bemon!

No problem- bedlinering it would probably make even easier to hold onto. I wonder if I could cap over it though.

[Astronymus]

Maybe Germans have dry hands... I certainly have.

[Black Spot]

 

Layed to dry on my professional drying rack

 

 

 

used by professionals everywhere

[Carrau]

For those who find metal sections too slippery, a simple solution is to buy an alum block or stick (usually used for shaving nicks). Moisten the block or your fingers slightly, then briefly grip the block/stick with your fingers, and you’re done. The alum will give you excellent purchase on any smooth metal surface, and is easily removed with water or moistened paper towel/ cloth. Alum blocks can be purchased inexpensively from any shaving supply store online (like The Italian Barber, or West Coast Shaving-I'm sure there are many more) for $4.99 and up, and one will last a lifetime). Many who use safety razors use this regularly to keep razor handles from slipping in wet hands. Easy to do, and no permanent change to your pen.

[bemon]

For those who find metal sections too slippery, a simple solution is to buy an alum block or stick (usually used for shaving nicks). Moisten the block or your fingers slightly, then briefly grip the block/stick with your fingers, and you’re done. The alum will give you excellent purchase on any smooth metal surface, and is easily removed with water or moistened paper towel/ cloth. Alum blocks can be purchased inexpensively from any shaving supply store online (like The Italian Barber, or West Coast Shaving-I'm sure there are many more) for $4.99 and up, and one will last a lifetime). Many who use safety razors use this regularly to keep razor handles from slipping in wet hands. Easy to do, and no permanent change to your pen.

Care to demonstrate? Plasti Dip peels off without any damage, but it’s tough to get a smooth even application.

[sansenri]

I was initially concerned when seeing what you did to your Classic...

I own the Ebony and it's one of my best writing pens too.

Luckily I don't find the section to be slippery. A tad thin perhaps but it's such a good writer I forget about that soon after I start using it. I find the trick is resting it in your hand more evenly rather than trying to clutch the section.

[JosephKing]

...but its tough to get a smooth even application.

I was surprised to find out that Plastidip is a literal name for the original product: a container of the stuff for you to dip tool handles into. You might find it easier to get a smooth finish if you try the dip version instead of the spray.

[bemon]

I was initially concerned when seeing what you did to your Classic...

I own the Ebony and it's one of my best writing pens too.

Luckily I don't find the section to be slippery. A tad thin perhaps but it's such a good writer I forget about that soon after I start using it. I find the trick is resting it in your hand more evenly rather than trying to clutch the section.

The Dip comes right off- like pulling a piece of tape off the section. Zero damage! Actually often people use Plasti Dip to protect surfaces.

 

I wish I could enjoy this pen with the naked section. Glad you enjoy your Classic as well!

[bemon]

I was surprised to find out that Plastidip is a literal name for the original product: a container of the stuff for you to dip tool handles into. You might find it easier to get a smooth finish if you try the dip version instead of the spray.

I definitely wood, but then I’d have to remove the nib. I’d also have a lot of rubber to dig out of the inside of the section, so even though it’s not perfectly even the spray application works... ish. A few days in and it’s starting to peel off. But then it is just one coat.

[sirgilbert357]

The Dip comes right off- like pulling a piece of tape off the section. Zero damage! Actually often people use Plasti Dip to protect surfaces.

 

I wish I could enjoy this pen with the naked section. Glad you enjoy your Classic as well!

 

 

Have you looked into bead blasting? It gives the metal a matte finish that would be much less slippery. I've seen it done to a Lamy Studio section and the result was pretty nice. Someone from FPN did it at one point, a pen restorer, I think. Can't recall who. You could ask around.

 

Not sure if the nib would have to be removed or if the section can just be shielded from the blasting media somehow...

[bemon]

 

 

Have you looked into bead blasting? It gives the metal a matte finish that would be much less slippery. I've seen it done to a Lamy Studio section and the result was pretty nice. Someone from FPN did it at one point, a pen restorer, I think. Can't recall who. You could ask around.

 

Not sure if the nib would have to be removed or if the section can just be shielded from the blasting media somehow...

Yeah, I saw that too. I like it, but I can't reverse bead blasting. I'll have to give that some more thought.

[carola]

You could always get a spare section.

[sirgilbert357]

Yeah, I saw that too. I like it, but I can't reverse bead blasting. I'll have to give that some more thought.

 

 

It would probably be a considerable expense, but I'm guessing anything bead blasted can be polished up again. There might be some material loss in the fractions of a micrometer range to get the metal back to a glossy shine, but who knows.

 

Either way, I get it. You have to do what you feel most comfortable with.

[bemon]

 

 

It would probably be a considerable expense, but I'm guessing anything bead blasted can be polished up again. There might be some material loss in the fractions of a micrometer range to get the metal back to a glossy shine, but who knows.

 

Either way, I get it. You have to do what you feel most comfortable with.

It's an option! As well as getting a spare section as Carola suggested above. For now the Plasti Dipping works. It peels cleanly off with no effort, and when I want to re-apply it it's only a few minutes work to mask the pen. I've had my eye on the Macassar version of this pen. So maybe one day if I get that one and this one becomes an official beater I'll be more willing to permanently change the finish.