Jump to content

Fountain Pen Revolution Release A ‘Himalaya V2’


Jamerelbe

Recommended Posts

"Much as I enjoy my older models, I wish I could trade them in for the new. "

 

That's what I was afraid you'd say....but thanks so much for the detailed review! The amethyst and jade look especially good to me.

fpn_1451608922__truthpil_signature_small

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Jamerelbe

    29

  • Intensity

    8

  • Honeybadgers

    6

  • truthpil

    3

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

"Much as I enjoy my older models, I wish I could trade them in for the new. "

 

That's what I was afraid you'd say....but thanks so much for the detailed review! The amethyst and jade look especially good to me.

 

I do still like the older ones though B) - it's just that I really *really* like their #6 nibs!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do hope they will keep the #5.5 model around though and don't phase it out. I think it's sufficiently different in terms of writing experience to warrant its availability. Otherwise I'll have to stock up. In my experience, there's not a greater line variation with #6 nibs compared to #5.5 nibs--it seems about the same with the nibs I've had: 2 5.5 and 2 #6--the original non-EF ultraflex. I've had a lot of railroading with my #6 pen and almost none with #5.5, but I might need to tweak the feed in #6.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do hope they will keep the #5.5 model around though and don't phase it out. I think it's sufficiently different in terms of writing experience to warrant its availability. Otherwise I'll have to stock up. In my experience, there's not a greater line variation with #6 nibs compared to #5.5 nibs--it seems about the same with the nibs I've had: 2 5.5 and 2 #6--the original non-EF ultraflex. I've had a lot of railroading with my #6 pen and almost none with #5.5, but I might need to tweak the feed in #6.

 

I'm pretty sure they intend to keep both in their lineup - that's the impression I got from my interactions with the proprietor. As long as both sell well, there's no real reason to stop stocking them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have both now in ebonite and an acrylic 5.5. I prefer the 5.5, since it can take vintage nibs. My 5.5 V1 has the feed from an old eversharp and the XXF semiflex steel nib from a pelikan C100. And it is glorious. Wet, smooth, crisp, soft, comfortable.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have both now in ebonite and an acrylic 5.5. I prefer the 5.5, since it can take vintage nibs. My 5.5 V1 has the feed from an old eversharp and the XXF semiflex steel nib from a pelikan C100. And it is glorious. Wet, smooth, crisp, soft, comfortable.

 

Did you discover the sizes fit by trial and error or are there certain manufacturers commonly use that size of nib and feed?

 

Appreciate y'all's replies on my previous questions!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Did you discover the sizes fit by trial and error or are there certain manufacturers commonly use that size of nib and feed?

 

Appreciate y'all's replies on my previous questions!

 

The #5.5 is a common size for vintage pens. it's about a #2, some #1's will fit, but since they're friction fit designs, there are a huge variety of nibs and feeds that fit. I just used the eversharp feed because I thought it was pretty and had a spare, it was just a standard #2. The C100 nib would easily fit the factory feed as well.

 

The 100 nibs can be bought here for $25. This is the seller I used. I bought two XXF's and they write stunningly. Soft for steel nibs but snappy and responsive, very thin and very wet, very precise lines.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pelikan-single-spare-nib-CN-fp-1939-model-100-to-1944-and-model-100N-to-1952/151154808231?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

The #5.5 is a common size for vintage pens. it's about a #2, some #1's will fit, but since they're friction fit designs, there are a huge variety of nibs and feeds that fit. I just used the eversharp feed because I thought it was pretty and had a spare, it was just a standard #2. The C100 nib would easily fit the factory feed as well.

 

The 100 nibs can be bought here for $25. This is the seller I used. I bought two XXF's and they write stunningly. Soft for steel nibs but snappy and responsive, very thin and very wet, very precise lines.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pelikan-single-spare-nib-CN-fp-1939-model-100-to-1944-and-model-100N-to-1952/151154808231?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Do you have any writing samples to show with the XXF? I wonder how that would compare to Japanese Extra Fine range.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Did you discover the sizes fit by trial and error or are there certain manufacturers commonly use that size of nib and feed?

 

Appreciate y'all's replies on my previous questions!

 

I haven't tried vintage nibs on my Himalayas (I don't really have any!), but find they're pretty 'forgiving' when it comes to fitting other #5 nibs. Because the ebonite feed doesn't have funny notches or deviations in shape to accommodate a specific kind of nib - and the grip section likewise isn't notched - you can ram a wider variety of nibs in and get them to seat well. I really like using the older Himalayas with some JoWo #5 Arrow nibs I picked up from fpnibs.com - they look a little different (in a good way!), and write far wetter in the Himalaya than in their original nib assemblies, fitted to another pen.

 

Edited to add: I haven't experimented yet with the #6 or V2 Himalayas, but the Trivenis (which have a plastic feed) happily take JoWo or Bock #6 nibs, and I'm confident the Himalayas would too!

Edited by Jamerelbe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pens may have some variation.

 

#5 Jowo's fit pretty well in my Himalaya-Original.

 

#6 Jowo's were loose in my Triveni Jr....

 

But I found Knox nibs to fit securely if the Jowo's were a little loose. I guess the Knox's may be a little thicker in the back or something.

 

I haven't tried Bock nibs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pens may have some variation.

 

#5 Jowo's fit pretty well in my Himalaya-Original.

 

#6 Jowo's were loose in my Triveni Jr....

 

But I found Knox nibs to fit securely if the Jowo's were a little loose. I guess the Knox's may be a little thicker in the back or something.

 

I haven't tried Bock nibs.

I think I agree with you: JoWo nibs are a slightly looser fit in the Triveni, because of the shape of the nib assembly sleeve. It hasn't bothered me with the 1.1mm stub nib I have in my red ebonite Triveni, but I wouldn't try it with a finer nib. Then again, the EF and F nibs from FPR are so pleasant to write with, in not sure why you'd bother!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have both now in ebonite and an acrylic 5.5. I prefer the 5.5, since it can take vintage nibs. My 5.5 V1 has the feed from an old eversharp and the XXF semiflex steel nib from a pelikan C100. And it is glorious. Wet, smooth, crisp, soft, comfortable.

 

+1 for the nice ability to swap vintage nibs in the V1.

My first V1 Himalaya is currently sporting a 1950s wet noodle Degussa nib AND feed I got out of an otherwise ruined Artus. My only problem is that the converter only has enough room to hold enough ink to write a page or two with that paintbrush wet nib.

fpn_1451608922__truthpil_signature_small

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Do you have any writing samples to show with the XXF? I wonder how that would compare to Japanese Extra Fine range.

 

Dead nuts even with a japanese EF.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I pulled apart a couple of my Himalayas to clean them last night (wanted to get the pigment ink out of the Jade Smoke pen before it clogged it up!), and thought I'd take a pic for prosperity.

 

The top feed and grip come from the V2 - note the longer feed, to try and reduce the gap between feed and ink reservoir.

The lower grip and feed come from the gold-trim #6 version (which takes the old plunger-style ink reservoir).

 

fpn_1575377671__himalaya_section-feed.jp

 

I accidentally mixed the nibs up: the gold nib 'belongs' with the purple grip section, and the stainless steel with the jade smoke. [Yes, you can swap them, but they're supposed to match the trim of the pen.]

 

Note too the "EF" on the stainless steel nib - this is hidden within the section when the nib is deployed. I have to fill both pens with the same ink, if I want to more accurately compare the thickness of the lines they lay down - both of them flex really nicely though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And yes, the upper feed still needs more of a soaking (and maybe a light scrub?) - I don't think I'll be putting that particular ink in this particular pen again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which ink, if you dont mind sharing?

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which ink, if you dont mind sharing?

 

Kakimori Blue Moment - a pigment ink I bought from milligram.com, but made by a Japanese stationery store (I think?).

 

The little instruction sheet they include in the box says, among other things:

 

"This ink is a pigment type of ink... We recommend to use the pen filled with the ink constantly so that the ink will not dry on the nib... Only the pens sold at our stores have been tested with the ink. Depending on your pen, the ink may possibly clog up the feed, and it would be problems with the pen."

 

I like to live dangerously from time to time, or I wouldn't have bought the ink int the first place - for now, though, I think I'll be putting this in a cheaper pen. It hasn't seriously damaged the feed, but it *is* proving a little reluctant to dissolve away. Might put it in my ultrasonic cleaner later, and/or have a go at it with an old toothbrush...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohh ok, wasnt sure if you were referring to the more widely known pigment inks, such as those made by Platinum.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohh ok, wasnt sure if you were referring to the more widely known pigment inks, such as those made by Platinum.

 

No, this is definitely a 'boutique' ink, so I was half-expecting problems. I have a few pigment inks from Blackstone (Barrister Black, Blue, and Blue-Black), all of which seem to behave more nicely than this. You *can* expect sedimentation from *any* of these inks, though, if you leave them in your pen long enough - and at least with the Himalaya you can strip the pen down to clean it out!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like to live dangerously from time to time, or I wouldn't have bought the ink int the first place - for now, though, I think I'll be putting this in a cheaper pen. It hasn't seriously damaged the feed, but it *is* proving a little reluctant to dissolve away.

 

 

Or just go straight to something like a Platinum #3776 Century or gold-nibbed Sailor pen, both categories of pens that are extremely reliable in not letting ink evaporate when properly capped. :)

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33559
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26744
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...