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Sheaffer Vac Filler Mechanism


KingRoach
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Hi all. I have a striated Sheaffer vac filler (short pen about 120mm capped, not a Tuckaway kind of short, but also not a Balance long either.). I think it might be a Statesman but the question is more generic:

 

The vac fill unit: If I pull the plunger back and then push it forward, sometimes, against a light source, I see a piece behind the plunger that moves loosely forward, and it can be pushed to the back of the pen again if I pull the plunger back.

Does anybody know what I'm talking about? What is this piece, and what effect does it have? The pen still creates a vacuum and fills, but also if I pull the rod back, little ink droplets come out on the rod too, and I'm not sure they should.

 

What is the best way or tool to disassemble this particular pen.

 

Best regards

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Some of the plunger fillers have a short tube on the rod behind the head gasket. I have no idea why they put it there, but it was discontinued in later pens, so must not have been considered to be an essential part.

 

No, you should not have ink on the plunger rod. Assuming that the pen has been restored, a light coating of silicone grease will both repel the ink, and lubricate the rod so that the plunger moves more freely. If it hasn't been restored, you might want to consider havig it done.

 

If you are experienced in pen repair, you might be able to do it yourself. If you aren't, I woldn't tackle this as my first repair. Getting the nib unit out without damaging it will be your first, and major, challenge.

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I wonder if it has been restored if it's the little white seal retainer come loose or not been fixed in properly.

 

Just a thought.

 

Take Ron's advice on not making a Vac filler your first restoration, they are not the easiest by a long way.

 

Paul

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Thanks for the input guys. This is definitely not my first restore and I'm comfortable tackling a challenge. I love doing things by myself and get a kick from seeing good results (or a kick in the back from failing lol)

 

That said, this pen was not restored. I bought it as is, and it's been functioning like this since I bought it. The only thing I did to it so far has been to better seal the section-barrel as it was leaking air from there. I sealed that, and the pen was drawing ink. Then I noticed it was allowing droplets on the rod, and if left for a while, the ink level dropped, so I'm guessing evaporation.

 

No I don't know yet how to properly remove the nib on this one. I don't think it will be hard, but the only reason I would want to is if I get a replacement for the feed. It has broken fins, but it's only cosmetic. I'm still happy if it stays like that and functions well, so the main problem then is servicing the back end.

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      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
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      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
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      That looks pretty good. You might want to add wood as a material (with its weakness of staining) and mention urushi. And under ergonomic considerations, the size of section (slender pens vs chunky pens), and shape of section, and 'disturbances' such as the Lamy 2000 'ears' and Pilot Capless clip getting in the way might be worth mentioning. Also possibly a general section on things you can do yourself with a bit of care, with a bit of practice, and things that are strictly "don't try this a
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      Hahaha...this is brilliantly funny! 🤣 I did not know about this section of the site...what gem!  
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