New Flock To Arrive Soon ,,,,,,i Hope !

[Bo Bo Olson]

March of '43 the German Government let the Pen companies know, no more pens to be made after the start of May, '43.

 

 

Rothemel has come a long way in the last 2-3 years since he first started. I'm willing to let him be correct that the color changed in the war............before that or him; it was amber before and during and green after.

That change date was not known to the community or even Rudigier six- seven years ago when I got my green window 100n.

So good for Rothemel.

[EdwardSouthgate]

Is there a good reference book on Pelikan that is available in English ? Bought another 400 set today $148.50 asipping included . It is green stripe with torpedo ends so a 400N or NN with a 455 ballpoint in a Pelikan etut with the original tag on a string attached to the etui . Sticker is still on the 455 also . I will use the 450 that was with the 140 to make a three piece set since I have a Pelikan etui for a thre piece set . Need to start looking ( after first of the year ) for the correct pencils for the 100's .

 

BoBo , the i40 has very little flex and writes on both sides of the nib . It is marked EF and I would say that is correct for the top side but the normal writing side seems F at best . A neat pen but needs cleaning inside and out . The barrel is stained inside and you can't see through . The cap threads may be a little off also as it only takes about 1/2 turn to lock it on . I am wondering if the nib is not from a 400 or something slightly larger than a 140 ? Cap threads on solid and does not seem to hit the point of the nib but I am wondering if it might be stopping on the shoulders .

 

I also am willing to let Rothemel be right , or wrong , really makes no difference to me as long as it looks and feels good and is a nice writer .

,

Eddie

Edited November 16, 2018 by EdwardSouthgate

[Bo Bo Olson]

Just fill with water and shake, then expel....if it comes out in a nice blue cloud....it is Royal Blue, the very best ink to leave in a pen for two or three generations.

If it comes out in strings, is Blue Black or black and will take some 15-20 minutes longer to clean out the old ink.

 

Soak the nib in a cup that has water in it up to the middle of the section....let sit an our or two.

Fold a paper towel over the joint of your left forefinger. Place the nib feed there, place thumb on top of nib, turn pen body towards you, and the nib will come out.

If you have a baby syringe bulb; used for other c/c pen cleaning, can clean out the insides of the Pelikan pen very fast.

Unless you have two and cut on to fit the Pelikan nib section...something to do eventually, in that cleans the nib out fast.

Eventually you should get a thumb's inch worth of 100% silicon pure grease....last years, to lube the piston every 3 or so years.....Rick says it's not necessary to do it more often. Half a rice corn on a tooth pick, or the same on one side of the Q-tip, on the barrel, not the piston.

 

 

What era nib, what company's nib are you comparing the 140 EF with? European or Japaneses?

 

To start with the nib is a stub (the 120's are not) ....so if you compare it to a round bottomed nib, the rounded bottom nib will be narrower. The stub will write with a cleaner line.

 

A 140's nib is 'small', if put in a 400 would look a bit dorky. A 400's or 120's nib are 'big'...not quite as big as I remembered, unless very lucky, would not fit the 140's cap, with out bending the tines.*** see below..

 

Writing on both sides of the nib was never anything I looked for. Look to see if there is an H or D on that nib, or if an early 140 on the piston knob; size.

A 140's nib unless H or D should be semi-flex....there is someone out there with a maxi.

If the nib is 'large' it could be a 120's regular flex nib......then it would not have a gold mark....14 C or 585. My 120 only has the F.

 

****Not a huge amount of difference between a 120 and a 140's nib, as I 'remembered' it.

My 140 has a Chevron along with gold mark, the 120 not...

The 120 is regular flex, the 140...either of two, I have one in OF and one in OB...the one in OF is on the fatter side of F close to a thin, OM.............the OB seems to be 'regular" sized B. The 140 is semi-flex.

Your 140 does have the 4 comb/rill longitudinal ...'50-65 feed?

 

Could be a 150's nib with modern horizontal feed combs.

 

A 400's nib is a slight tad wider, a slight tad longer....like the size of the tipping longer.

1.9cm for the 140, 2.0 for a '50's 400....1.92 for my '90-97 400 (not a stub). (the 400, definitely looked bigger back when I had fewer pens.... )

 

There are enough pens of that era that take only 1/2 to 2/3-3/4ths a turn to open it.

 

An, even though the 50-65 era nib, like the '82-97 era are @ 1/2 a Width narrower than modern, there is always slop/tolerance in any nib width. An EF can just as easy be = to a skinny F, as a fat EEF. Or the same with any other nib size. Nib width is always a gamble of tolerance, era and manufacturer's standards, which are different from company to company. Wouldn't want some one confusing a fatter Parker nib with a skinnier Sheaffer nib........back in One Man One Pen days the customer could buy the wrong pen and waste 7-10 years before he could get back to 'normal' .

 

Each company has it's own standard...................Japanese is still a small bit narrower than vintage '50-60's Pelikan nibs................The Pelikan would be more toward the size of an Aurora or Sailor nib. Pilot is the skinny Japanese nib.

 

400n is very rare, the piston knob looks like a 400 not the 400nn, in the 'shape' of the piston knob is so 'blured' I actually thought I had one, until I measured the cap....and the 400n's cap is long so it posted to a medium-long size like the longer bodied 400nn.

Once one measures the cap one knows.

The 400n is a 'standard' sized pen, that posts to medium-long. The 400nn is a medium-long pen with the same size cap as a 400.

The 400nn was torpedo shaped, so was more IN, than the 400&400n.

 

Do you have a regular flex pen?

I'm wondering if you got a maxi-semi-flex in your other 400.

Mash a regular flex to 3 X a light down stroke.

Semi-flex takes half of that.

maxi takes 1/4th of the pressure needed to mash a regular flex to 3 X.

If on has a maxi, then a semi-flex wouldn't be as much as one hoped.

Semi-flex gives you flair with out working at it.........................almost flex.....actually quite a ways a way from a superflex nib....first stage Easy Full Flex would be 1/8th the pressure needed to 3 X a regular flex.

Wet noodle 1/16th.

[EdwardSouthgate]

No gash on the OB nib on the 400NN , flexes without a thought . I have a fairly light hand and even so this one I will have to get used to . The pictures do not do it justice,it is much nicer than ot looks. The 100N looks mint in every way and is fairly flexy itself but not nearly as much so as the Tortoise 400 or this Green 400NN .

 

Bo Bo,

I was comparing the stroke of the 140 nib with Pelikan , Montblanc, Swan, Waterman ,Parker, Onoto, and the like . I have no Asian pens . The nib in the 140 has the chevrons and .585 markings as well as the EF. I have what I consider regular flex in most of the above mentioned as well as a pair of Esterbrooks from the late 40's. The 140 has the 4 comb 1950's style feed not the later .

 

Put me some black 4001 (1970's) in the 100N and will most likely load the 400NN with Parker Penman Sapphire .

 

Eddie

[mana]

Is there a good reference book on Pelikan that is available in English ?

There are two main reference books, as in, the 1st and 2nd editions of Pelikan Schreibgeräte (Pelikan Schreibgeräte 1929-1997 & Pelikan Schreibgeräte 1929-2004). In my opinion they are different enough to warrant getting both. Some issues with info but yeah, those are the ones for a serious collector. Did a search and found a few places which have those available (which is kind of rare). Oh, expect to pay something in the region of $100-200 per book (very limited print runs).

 

Here is a review of the second edition > https://thepelikansperch.com/2014/10/19/pelikan-schreibgerate-book-review/

[mana]

...there are other books too but they do not cover Pelikan fountain pens in anywhere near the same detail > https://thepelikansperch.com/tag/book/

[Bo Bo Olson]

Eddie, Parker Penman Sapphire , is a supersaturated ink....one of the first, lack of cleaning caused Parker to discontinue Penman inks. They were getting a lot of repair work.

 

Just a generation ago, Folks didn't know about cleaning pens as was, much less that supersaturated ones needed more care, needed to be cleaned out regularly....just like any supersaturated modern ink.

 

I have a couple cartridges of Parker Penman Sapphire. I really should use one....if I could remember.

Edited November 22, 2018 by Bo Bo Olson

[EdwardSouthgate]

Never had any trouble with any of the Penman inks ,....... Superchrome was one that for me gave every issue you could imagine .

[bass1193]

Never had any trouble with any of the Penman inks ,....... Superchrome was one that for me gave every issue you could imagine .

Very brave of you to try Superchrome! That's some nasty stuff.

[EdwardSouthgate]

Very brave of you to try Superchrome! That's some nasty stuff.

 

A kid will use anything he can get his hands on . When I used it the bad stuff that we now know about Superchrome was not common knowlege . Untill my pen quit writing it was just ink like any other . When I was a broke teenager I made some ink from Poke berries and syringe filled Skrip cartridges to use in a cheap Sheaffer cartridge pen . It worked , not well , but it did work .

 

Eddie

[bass1193]

A kid will use anything he can get his hands on . When I used it the bad stuff that we now know about Superchrome was not common knowlege . Untill my pen quit writing it was just ink like any other . When I was a broke teenager I made some ink from Poke berries and syringe filled Skrip cartridges to use in a cheap Sheaffer cartridge pen . It worked , not well , but it did work .

 

Eddie

Indeed! One must make do when one must make do 😄

[EdwardSouthgate]

There are two main reference books, as in, the 1st and 2nd editions of Pelikan Schreibgeräte (Pelikan Schreibgeräte 1929-1997 & Pelikan Schreibgeräte 1929-2004). In my opinion they are different enough to warrant getting both. Some issues with info but yeah, those are the ones for a serious collector. Did a search and found a few places which have those available (which is kind of rare). Oh, expect to pay something in the region of $100-200 per book (very limited print runs).

 

Here is a review of the second edition > https://thepelikansperch.com/2014/10/19/pelikan-schreibgerate-book-review/

 

Thanks for the info. Can't find any currently for sale but I will keep watching .

[EdwardSouthgate]

The 100 is leaving New York this evening so it should arrive Saturday or Monday at the latest .

[Barutti]

Indeed. I searching these books almost 2 years and get first edition (up to 1997) on ebay for sum near 100 USD. Second eddition noticed only once, but price was

[sargetalon]

These books will command up to $250 if found. I wouldnt pay more than that (youll see some asking for $500+) and anything cheaper is a big plus. Takes a long time of searching to source one but they do pop up from time to time.

[inkstainedruth]

That's still cheaper than an out-of-print needlework book I've been lusting after for about 25 years. Saw a copy at a place a few towns over from where we lived in MA and the woman wanted $425 US for the thing. A friend of mine in the Pittsburgh area talked her down to $300 (the woman didn't know Teri was doing it for me) but that was still too pricy. Found a German edition of it in a place in Ohio for $175, after moving back to the Pittsburgh area, so my friend and I went to take a look, and she decreed it wasn't worth the price in the condition it was in. We had to wait for the store owner to come back, so we went and grabbed lunch and then poked around a store that sold lace-making supplies, then went back to the bookstore. Owner said "Price is firm!" and we said "Thanks but no thanks" and left. After we got outside, Teri told me that her valuation at $100-125 had been generous, and that the book should have been marked at $80-$100. And that she was going to go complain to Bibliofind about the seller listing it as being "very good/very good" condition....

Fortunately, the main branch of the Carnegie Library has a copy in closed stacks (the copy in another library that could be checked out has gone missing ). Even *more* fortunately, CLP Main now has scanner/printers where you can save pages to a flash drive, and eventually I will go there enough times to scan in the entire book (3/4 of it is photos of extant pieces -- a few of which are in color -- and just photocopying will not get the details; but I can scan it to my flash drive and then print the pages in grey scale, assuming I get a secondary drawer for my color laser printer that takes 8-1/2" x 14" pages).

Yes, it's a violation of copyright (my mother would be spinning in her grave so fast as to generate enough power to light the entire state of NJ for at least a week ). But if it's the only way I can get a copy (short of getting Dover Publications to reprint it for something in the range of cheap(er)...), it may be the route to take that I have available to me.

I don't even want to think about how much the Pelikan Schreibgeräte books will cost....

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[EdwardSouthgate]

Bo Bo ,

 

See my post under European Pens On the Osmia 52SM I have added to the acumulation . Maybe you can give some info on what I have bought .