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Adjusting Lamy Z50 Nib For Lanbitou 3059


Antenociticus
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I recently bought a couple of Lanbitou 3029s having read somewhere that the nibs could be swapped out for Lamy Z50 nibs. I wanted to use a piston-filler with a couple of broader nibs.

 

I'm no nib expert – this is my first nib project – but today I had a go. I slipped out the Lanbitou nib, which was easily accomplished, and slipped on a Lamy Z50 B nib.

 

It slipped on easily enough, but wobbled when it was in place. It seemed a little too wide to fit, though I couldn't see any real difference between the two nibs. I tried bending in the wings a little with my fingers. No result. I then used a pair of pliers and promptly ruined the nib, which bent along the centre line – the line between the tines – and had to throw it away.

 

Before I ruin any more nibs, can anyone advise me on how best to deal with this situation?

Lined paper makes a prison of the page.

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I've done the same and just squeeze a little at a time with my cloth padded leatherman tool until I get it tight.

 

At which angle do you squeeze?

Lined paper makes a prison of the page.

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squeeze the shoulders together just a TOUCH, with a pair of pliers wrapped in electrical tape.

If that doesn't solve it, squeeze the wings themselves upwards a touch.

 

I've run into the same problem as you. Fixing it was simple, just a little bit of tweaking fixed it.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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    • A Smug Dill
      @Texas42 Thank you. I myself have recently had the experience of cleaning out a Wing Sung 699, in which the iron-gall ink has been sitting for six months. No damage to the metal piston rod (whereas, in a Wing Sung 3013 vacuum-filler, it would have been corroded, turned green, and contaminated the ink in mere weeks), but there was a ring of colour at the far end of the barrel that wouldn't budge, and I found it impossible to unscrew the filling mechanism to clean the interior wall of the ink rese
    • Texas42
      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
    • Splat
      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
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