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Stuck Nib Help!



Claud

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Just got a lovely Pelikan 100 with a CN nib. When I went to unscrew the nib for a first cleaning and piston grease, I was unable to unscrew the nib. I am afraid to use too much force so I soaked it in warm water overnight. If that doesn't work, are there any other remedies other than sending it to a nib master or Rick Propas?

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I think you will need patience.

 

Is it a 100 or 100N Pelikan?

 

I would normally suggest to add a few drops of ammonia in the water because that helps solving dried ink residues. But ammonia should be avoided on the earlier celluloid 100 barrels. Ammonia will do no harm to the later 100N acrylic barrels.

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I think you will need patience.

 

Is it a 100 or 100N Pelikan?

 

I would normally suggest to add a few drops of ammonia in the water because that helps solving dried ink residues. But ammonia should be avoided on the earlier celluloid 100 barrels. Ammonia will do no harm to the later 100N acrylic barrels.

 

 

Not really sure. It does not have the knurreled piston fill knob , and its piston seal is not cork.. At this point, I will just keep the nib end in clear water and occasionally warm water, unless someone has a better idea. By the way, piston seal works great so I am soaking inside and outside.

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Not really sure. It does not have the knurreled piston fill knob , and its piston seal is not cork.. At this point, I will just keep the nib end in clear water and occasionally warm water, unless someone has a better idea. By the way, piston seal works great so I am soaking inside and outside.

 

In your other post about this new acquisition, the piston turning knob appeared flat on its end. That would be a 100.

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I thought so too. Inked it up and it writes fine with a Fine nib. Think I will just use it until June when we have a pen show and I can have a nibmiester look at it.

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Karmachanic

I don't own a Pelikan. Try alternating hot (not boiling) and ice water. Maybe five minutes each, several times. This has worked for me in the past. Water won't stay warm overnight :o

Edited by kd3

"Simplicate and add Lightness."

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Bo Bo Olson

The 3 rill/combs of the 100-100n, like the 4 comb/rills of the '50-65 era are very delicate and fragile.

 

After soaking.

Fold a paper towel a couple of times in a pad, over the first joint of your left hand's index finger; a secure soft support. Place thumb on the top of the nib, ... hold, as you twist the barrel towards yourself.

 

After the first time, it is not always necessary to do it with a towel....but does keep the hand from becoming inky. Do the towel some three or four times until you know how little pressure to put on the combs. If you want to be safe always use the paper towel.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

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I don't own a Pelikan. Try alternating hot (not boiling) and ice water. Maybe five minutes each, several times. This has worked for me in the past. Water won't stay warm overnight :o

Do not do this.............

Fred

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Just got a lovely Pelikan 100 with a CN nib. When I went to unscrew the nib for a first cleaning and piston grease, I was unable to unscrew the nib. I am afraid to use too much force so I soaked it in warm water overnight. If that doesn't work, are there any other remedies other than sending it to a nib master or Rick Propas?

As mentioned above..vintage nib assembly..ebonite..longitudinal fins..are delicate..

If soakin' does not help remove dried ink..Do not force it..It will break....Send it to someone

who can remove.....And....Only Remove the Nib Assembly If Absolutely Necessary.....

Not To Clean The Pen...........................

Fred

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Yikes! Alternating hot (or warm) and cold water has a good chance of damaging -- cracking -- plastic as it expands and contracts.

-- Joel -- "I collect expensive and time-consuming hobbies."

 

INK (noun): A villainous compound of tannogallate of iron, gum-arabic and water,

chiefly used to facilitate the infection of idiocy and promote intellectual crime.

(from The Devil's Dictionary, by Ambrose Bierce)

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Yikes! Alternating hot (or warm) and cold water has a good chance of damaging -- cracking -- plastic as it expands and contracts.

 

+1 for this. I would definitely not try it. :o

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I would fill the pen and let it sit nib down overnight. You can also try soaking if the parts are not hard rubber. Hold the nib with a towel and turn the barrel. Gentle pressure and dont force it. I agree with all the comments against using water at extremes of temps. I use room temp distilled water.

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

fpn_1508261203__fpn_logo_300x150.jpg

THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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I soaked it in warm water with warm water in its ink chamber overnight. Of course the water got cold, but it soaked for 12 hours and 24 hours. No go. As I posted earlier, I am just going to let a pro remove it. I am too scared to ruin my old bird.

I have put pressure and torque to bear, but no go.

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Bo Bo Olson

Well not having a tiny fortune, never did buy one of the two Pelikan nib removing machines from that era that were on sale on Ebay (not at the same time of course) and mentioned here......but the factory needed a special nib removing machine, slotted to fit exactly the longitudinal combs.

 

You are wise to send it to a pro.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

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I don't own a Pelikan. Try alternating hot (not boiling) and ice water. Maybe five minutes each, several times. This has worked for me in the past. Water won't stay warm overnight :o

Thats a terrible, terrible advice.

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I have two or three vintage Pelikans where the nib will not unscrew, one is a 100N the others 400NN

I tried soaking them and gently putting some torque to unscrew them but they just will not move...

I read that in some of the vintage nibs (especially in the 400NN, if I recall) the collars for a period of time were manufactured with a polystyrine material which with time can become very brittle and brake if forced, or possibly they are already broken and that is why they will not unscrew...

I have decided to use them as they are, it does not affect performance.

(I have also bought the spare collars to substitute them, the days they do break... but so far don't want to risk finding myself in need to do that... :) )

Edited by sansenri
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For what its worth, some time ago I bought a 100N, with CN nib, that had been refurbished with new cork etc. When I got it I found that it would not fill so I tried to remove the nib unit bit to no avail. I tried soaking and all the other recommendations but still no luck (it was too late to send it back as I had left it in a drawer for some months). I gave up and put it back in the drawer. About a month ago I thought I would have another try and, after about 2 weeks of soaking, I finally managed to unscrew the nib unit. I inserted another nib unit that I had handy and the pen filled, and wrote, perfectly. So now to sort the CN nib out. It was obviously completely choked with dry ink and, in the end, I dismantled it only to find that it was completely clogged with dry ink which was rock hard, also the rear half of the nib had completely corroded away. Now I am looking for a replacement CN nib, feed and collar as the spare nib I used is a 14ct.

Peter

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I soaked it in warm water with warm water in its ink chamber overnight. Of course the water got cold, but it soaked for 12 hours and 24 hours. No go. As I posted earlier, I am just going to let a pro remove it. I am too scared to ruin my old bird.

I have put pressure and torque to bear, but no go.

Why don't you just go back to the seller? It was sold as 100% functional, right?

When I am selling Pelikans, I make sure the nib is not stuck. The changeable nib units are one reason why people buy these pens.....

C.

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Why don't you just go back to the seller? It was sold as 100% functional, right?

When I am selling Pelikans, I make sure the nib is not stuck. The changeable nib units are one reason why people buy these pens.....

C.

 

It is functional and a great writer. Its just like a Mont Blanc or lots of other pens. The nib is not removable without a special skill, tool or knowledge. It is fine until I send it off if I can't find someone at the June Pen show.

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Commonly, Pelikan 100 nibs just can be removed by unscrewing, by everyone. No special kills or tools needed. That's one of the points that makes these pens so popular. I never would sell one with a stuck nib unit without any mention...

C.

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