Fountain Pen Revolution On A Jinhao?

[AberHulk]

Has anyone tried putting the FPR #6 nib on a Jinhao 450, 750 or 159? (does the 159 have the same nib size?)

[Jamerelbe]

Yes, I've tried it - but no, it's not a good fit. The back/bottom ends of the Jinhao nibs fit more 'snugly' against the feed than the FPR nibs, which are a bit more 'flared out'. A Jinhao nib will fit comfortably in a pen designed for a FPR #6 / #35 nib or similar - but I couldn't get an FPR nib to fit into the grip section of my Jinhao x750.

 

Also, in answer to your other question: yes, the Jinhao 159 has the same size nib as the x450 and x750!

[AberHulk]

Thank you for the information. Darn I really like their nibs

[Jamerelbe]

Thank you for the information. Darn I really like their nibs

 

Yeah, it's a shame - I find their #5.5 nibs are just a bit too wide to fit comfortably into a plastic 599 grip section, too. You really have to cram them in, and I'm not prepared to do that... Great nibs, though, especially for the price!

[mke]

As it doesn't - try this.

A Jowo #6 fits nicely into a Jinhao 450, 750 and 159.

I am using these nibs: http://www.fpnibs.com/en/jowo-steel-nibs/342-steel-nib-unit-size-6-rhodium.html#/

 

It is really an upgrade. You will realize the difference.

 

----

Which other Chinese pens do these FPR nibs #5.5 and #6 fit?

[Bookman]

The #6 F.P.R. "flex" nib in the JinHao x450. It's a tight fit. And you do have to round out the base of the

nib so it's less parabolic. But it fits, and both nib and feed are removable thereafter. Just make

sure you orient and insert the nib and feed properly. As I'm sure you're well aware,

despite commonly accepted folklore to the contrary there is only one correct

way to orient and insert nibs and feeds on most pens, and that is

equally true with the x450: every other way is wrong.

Use a generic #6 feed.

 

 

 

 

The # 5.5 F.P.R. "flex" nib in the Baoer 388. This is a nice pen with the stock nib. It's a fantastic pen, however,

with the F.P.R. "flex" nib. It makes the writing more fun and more interesting. As with the x450,

this nib needs a slight bit of rounding at the base to fit into the section. And as with the

x450, mind how you insert the nib and feed. If you don't orient them correctly,

the nib and feed won't go in at all. Be advised, however, that when

it does start to go in, the fit is very tight indeed.

Consider making this a permanent

change. Use a #5 generic feed.

For the benefit of the uninitiated, here's what I'm talking about when I talk about the proper orientation of the nib and

feed when inserting them into the opening to the section. Below are the feed and section of my JinHao x750.

The shape of the section opening is identical to openings for the x450, Edison and Conklin nib-unit

housing, Nemosine, and a great many other pens. One good look at these photos followed by a

good look at the opening to your similar section will tell you whether you've already

deformed your section by shoving the nib and feed in "any old way." Over a

very short period of time, shoving the nib and feed in "any old way"

will cause the shape to begin rounding, but won't necessarily

widen the circumference right away. The result: the

nib and feed will be more difficult to insert

until the opening has been stretched

wider than it should be.

Edited February 6, 2018 by Bookman

[bugsydog55]

Excellent description and photos to explain an issue I'm sure a lot of folks have questions about. Getting things properly oriented will make all the difference in the world. When I first started with fountain pens, friction fit meant just one thing-pulling like crazy to get the nib and feed out then shoving to the point of hurt fingers until they were kind of in the right place. Afterwards you wrap your fingers in bandaids and hopefully there won't be an ink hemorrhage when you refill your "improved" pen. Some pens do have rounded sections but pen users do need to be reminded to look first. Changing nibs can be a lot of fun but, depending on the pen you are working on, it can be a lot of delicate work. Use some caution before you grab a hammer and the channel locks.

[Inky_paws]

 

And you do have to round out the base of the nib so it's less parabolic.

 

What sort of weaponry do you use to do this?

 

Thanks for the photos of the correct orientation - obvious once you know about it.

[Bookman]

 

What sort of weaponry do you use to do this?

 

Thanks for the photos of the correct orientation - obvious once you know about it.

 

I apologize for omitting the reference to the body of the nib as well as the base. So let me make amends with more clarity. Round out the parabola by starting at the base, then moving up the body, but going no farther up than the bottom of the slit between the tines. As for weaponry, I use plastic-tip pliers, eyeballs, and, if necessary, a short bit of trial-and-error. (The nib in the photo is not an F.P.R. "flex" nib. It's just a stand-in.)

Edited February 10, 2018 by Bookman

[Inky_paws]

I wasn't aware of plastic tip pliers - oh goody, another tool to buy

 

I think I've also been a bit confused. I thought you were filing the end of the nib to a different shape but I now suspect you're squeezing it to change the cross section curve. Is that correct?

 

When I first looked at that photo, I was trying to work out what the spring in the middle was... then realised it was the back of the nib.

[Bookman]

I wasn't aware of plastic tip pliers - oh goody, another tool to buy

 

I think I've also been a bit confused. I thought you were filing the end of the nib to a different shape but I now suspect you're squeezing it to change the cross section curve. Is that correct?

 

When I first looked at that photo, I was trying to work out what the spring in the middle was... then realised it was the back of the nib.

 

Yes, my photo of the pliers on the nib shows the nib from the base and not the tip.

 

When I first tried to insert the nib and feed together, had trouble, and I took a closer look at the point of contact between the nib base and the section …

 

 

… it appeared to me that the "flex" nib wasn't as rounded as the top of the section opening. I tried but failed to squeeze the base and body into a rounder shape with my thumb and forefinger. My plastic-tip pliers were right there in front of me, and so I resorted to those and they did the job. It never occurred to me to file the edge. It might have escaped me because I don't own a file, but I own a pair of plastic-tip pliers.

[Enkida]

I'm going to caveat this thread with the fact that I just put three #6 FPR nibs on 3 x750 Jinhaos with very little trouble and no need for filing or bending. They were a stub, a EF, and an F nib, though, none of the flex options, so maybe they were shaped a little differently? I don't know. They were all easier to do by far than the Zebra G mod, which I've also done before. Only one of the pens gave a little trouble by being tighter than the rest, albeit I think this was because either the feed on the Jinhao or the nib from FPR were not precision tooled, so one or the other was a half millimeter or so thicker than its brethren, making things tricky.

 

Edited May 11, 2019 by Enkida

[Candlejackstraw]

Im glad to see this thread, I'm thinking about ordering FPR nibs to put on my Jinhaos (Ive put some zebra G nibs on a few already!)

[Denver2021]

I’ve tried two #6 FPR nibs in my Jinhao 450. Even modifying the base, I find the nib is too long to seat all the way into the pen. The FPR nib is longer than the Jinhao nib that came in the pen. The feed doesn’t reach far enough up the nib.  In addition the extended nib will not allow the cap to seat back on the pen. The nib’s tip hits the rubber insert in the cap. Maybe FPR nibs were once shorter.

[Magdalena Minerva]

On 2/18/2021 at 8:15 PM, Denver2021 said:

I’ve tried two #6 FPR nibs in my Jinhao 450. Even modifying the base, I find the nib is too long to seat all the way into the pen. The FPR nib is longer than the Jinhao nib that came in the pen. The feed doesn’t reach far enough up the nib.  In addition the extended nib will not allow the cap to seat back on the pen. The nib’s tip hits the rubber insert in the cap. Maybe FPR nibs were once shorter.

 

I just bought a few FPR F and EF nibs about a month ago, and put a modified F on my X750. I did have to bend the nib in order to do this, which was terrifying lol. The nib length is almost identical to the Jinhao nib, if you take it out and do a side-by-side comparison; but the base of the FPR nib does not have enough curve to fit snugly between the feed and the grip section.

 

If you wish to try this, you will have to follow the steps above to increase the curve in the bottom of the FPR nib: take some (preferably plastic, because they will not scratch) pliers, and, starting at the very bottom of the FPR nib, squeeze slightly, and move your way up, stopping well before you get to the tines.  It's easier to bend more than less, so go slowly, and try the fit out by slipping the nib only into the grip section and seeing how far it will fit snugly.  If you can see ANY gap between the nib and the section, you need to bend it a bit more. You could try marking on the nib where it stops, or just holding it up to another X750 with the factory nib still installed, to see if it's going in all the way. Mine is "in all the way," and caps properly, about 5mm from the bottom of the engraved "F."

 

My first try, I did bend a little too high up, and ended up messing up the tines to where a bit too much pressure makes one "pop" out of place.  But it still writes well and isn't scratchy. Luckily, the nibs are inexpensive and tinkering with them is honestly kind of fun.

 

EDIT: I just noticed you said you've already tried bending the nib - my guess is that you did not bend it enough, or you stopped too far down the nib.

Edited August 10, 2021 by Magdalena Minerva