Fountain Pens For Sketching

[tgoto]

Hi pen friends,

 

I have been trying to get a fountain pen for sketching outside.

 

So far I like Parker Vacumatic with fine nib the best for this use.

However, since I do not post the cap, I have some hard time handling the cap while I sketch.

 

I see some fountain pens without a cap on market such as:

 

- Pilot Vanishing Point

- Pilot Vanishing Point Decimo

- Pilot Vanishing Point Fermo

- Lamy Dialog 3

- Stipula davinci

 

Have you had any experience with pens for sketching that you recommend (or any other pens that you recommend)?

 

Thank you!

 

Tai

[sidthecat]

If you don’t have big hands, you might like a ringtop. Worn on a lanyard, the cap problem takes care of itself.

[tgoto]

If you don’t have big hands, you might like a ringtop. Worn on a lanyard, the cap problem takes care of itself.

I don't have big hands.

Do you have any ringtops in mind that might be good for sketching?

I am not familiar with ringtop pens.

[Bluey]

Both of these are good for sketching:

Pilot 912 FA nib

Sailor 1911 zoom nib

[tgoto]

Both of these are good for sketching:

Pilot 912 FA nib

Sailor 1911 zoom nib

Thank you! FA nib is a great nib. I haven't tried it to sketch but did some writng and was nice

I am wondering how a zoom nib works... I gotta try it

[Bluey]

Thank you! FA nib is a great nib. I haven't tried it to sketch but did some writng and was nice

I am wondering how a zoom nib works... I gotta try it

Both are very different types of nib and thus serve different functions for sketching. As you may know the FA nib is kind of like a slightly resistant brush pen, but is not great for doing long thicker lines as it's designed for Kanji. It will starve of ink very quickly resulting in railroading.

 

The zoom nib is where you change the line thickness by changing the angle of elevation to the page, where the line can go from fine to double broad.

Edited September 23, 2017 by Bluey

[sidthecat]

If you want to try a ringtop, you must seek them out in the savage and uncertain place that is the vintage fancy. Ringtops went out of fashion in the 1930s, so they must be sought out on ebay and the various sellers of old pens.

I’d suggest you seek out a pen show and try a few out before spending actual money on them, but they can be lovely things to use and wear.

[Mech-for-i]

Sketching , if at the very core, require almost little or no line variation but of course even with a pencil, sketching can have some line variation by how one orient the tip and how to laid down the material onto the paper. With that, I do think the Fude ( Japanese ) or Calligraphy ( Chinese ) nib type would be best suited to the need. While primarily used for Chinese / Kenji ( this term in Japanese actually mean Chinese Text ) writing, the design is such that fairly wide variation of line width can be had with regard to how you hold and draw with the pen. Chinese fountain pen mfr(s) actually refer to the nib as either Calligraphy nib or Calligraphy and Painting nib ( sound weird but in Chinese both term are exactly a 3 word term , there are subtle physical difference between the two ). Japanese Fude nib all all open nib type and fairly sized; where Chinese can be had from fairly big no.8 all the way down to the hooded nib variant. The hooded nib variant is what I would recommend for starter doing art and calligraphy with this kind of nib, after mastering the technique one can move on to bigger size nib and experiment.

 

The other way to sees it is the complete opposite , get a steno , needle point , or a very firm fine nib, then the sketching can be done in its most traditional straight forward manner, that is to laid down consistent line to build a piece. No painting facilitated, cross hatching is what you do to shade the shadows.

Edited September 24, 2017 by Mech-for-i

[tgoto]

Both are very different types of nib and thus serve different functions for sketching. As you may know the FA nib is kind of like a slightly resistant brush pen, but is not great for doing long thicker lines as it's designed for Kanji. It will starve of ink very quickly resulting in railroading.

 

The zoom nib is where you change the line thickness by changing the angle of elevation to the page, where the line can go from fine to double broad.

I probably need to train myself to draw with zoom nib, but it sounds like I can draw more dynamic sketches with zoom nib. Too bad it doesn't come with capless pens...

[tgoto]

If you want to try a ringtop, you must seek them out in the savage and uncertain place that is the vintage fancy. Ringtops went out of fashion in the 1930s, so they must be sought out on ebay and the various sellers of old pens.

I’d suggest you seek out a pen show and try a few out before spending actual money on them, but they can be lovely things to use and wear.

Thank you!

I didn't specifically look for ringtops in SF, but definitely will search in LA pen show

[tgoto]

Sketching , if at the very core, require almost little or no line variation but of course even with a pencil, sketching can have some line variation by how one orient the tip and how to laid down the material onto the paper. With that, I do not think the Fude ( Japanese ) or Calligraphy ( Chinese ) nib type would be best suited to the need. While primarily used for Chinese / Kenji ( this term in Japanese actually mean Chinese Text ) writing, the design is such that fairly wide variation of line width can be had with regard to how you hold and draw with the pen. Chinese fountain pen mfr(s) actually refer to the nib as either Calligraphy nib or Calligraphy and Painting nib ( sound weird but in Chinese both term are exactly a 3 word term , there are subtle physical difference between the two ). Japanese Fude nib all all open nib type and fairly sized. where Chinese can be had from fairly big no.8 all the way down to the hooded nib variant; the hooded nib variant is what I would recommend for starter doing art and calligraphy with this kind of nib, after mastering the technique one can move onto bigger size nib and experiment.

 

The other way to sees it is the complete opposite , get a steno , needle point , or a very firm fine nib, then the sketching can be done in its most traditional straight forward manner, that is to laid down consistent line to build a piece. No painting facilitated, cross hatching is what you do to shade the shadows.

 

Thank you for the response!

 

I currently use firm fine nib to sketch, but I have to go over the same line multiple times to express the depth in space. Attached is a sketch I drew recently...

 

I definitely need to try Fude, Painting and Zoom (from previous response)

[corgicoupe]

Google "Eric schunk napkin sketch". I met him at a recent pen club meeting where he displayed some of his sketches. He uses Karas Kustoms pens, as well as Waterman 94 & 521/2v.

[pen2paper]

...

 

I currently use firm fine nib to sketch, but I have to go over the same line multiple times to express the depth in space. Attached is a sketch I drew recently...

 

I definitely need to try Fude, Painting and Zoom (from previous response)

Sidethecat's & corgicoupe's suggestion to test drive gold semi-flex (basic ringtops often at modest cost) could provide the gentle variable line motion to render depth you're seeking. SF & FA are very different. As are modern flex, except maybe the new Aurora, but that's way outside of your o inquiry.

 

edit to include since you mentioned VP - Decimo, at the CA show's you should be able to test drive a cursive italic by John M.

Edited September 24, 2017 by pen2paper

[pajaro]

Thank you for the response!

 

I currently use firm fine nib to sketch, but I have to go over the same line multiple times to express the depth in space. Attached is a sketch I drew recently...

 

I definitely need to try Fude, Painting and Zoom (from previous response)

 

I can see that the cap of the Vacumatic getting lost could be an issue. If you want all those nibs, maybe you need a kind of art table on wheels. You would probably want to have a pen for each, ready and inked. This might relieve the worry about the cap.

 

Sometimes you can find cheap, used Pelikans in the M100 to M200 range. There is a variety of nibs available from EF to BB. The flow of these pens seems more reliable to me than any other cannon fodder pen. If you want one of the more expensive capless pens, good, go for it. I thought the Pilot capless was a tad bit heavy. Everybody's style is different, though. You can always try the capless. The capless pen might be great for open air work. You can get used to a heavier pen through using it.

 

Actually, trying everything under the sun has the advantage of helping you decide what works best for you. You can always sell the ones that don't work for you.

[inkstainedruth]

I'll admit that I'm a poster, so the concept of losing or holding caps is kinda a non-issue for me. I have to hold the cap for the Rotring Art Pen, because it DOESN'T post due to the tapered barrel.

I've used a variety of pens for sketching, but the two that I specifically have for artwork are that Rotring, with an EF nib, and my Pelikan M400 Brown Tortoise, which has a springy and juicy F nib.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[Ted A]

I use a Sailor Fude nib. they are fun to use. I am not at all a good artist, but play at it. The Fude nib gives you the ability to lay down some very thick and some narrow lines. But the one I have does have a cap.

 

I also like to use a Pilot Elite. It has an EF nib so is difficult to easily add depth. This is one that is small with a long cap. You really have to post it to be able to comfortably use the pen. It posts deep and firmly.

[sidthecat]

A sketching tool is as personal as one’s back teeth, and everybody in my office has a different assortment of tools and methods. Switching to a new program for storyboarding is as painful as abdominal surgery, and I’m abjectly grateful that the specific thing I do requires only Photoshop.

That said, the sketch pen of my dreams is a Wall-Evershop Doric with a broken Adjustable nib. This is a lot like saying that I get to work by riding my unicorn to the office, but it’s kind of a testament to the lengths one will go for a mere tool. The pen and the nib were acquired separately and Frankensteined together by Mr. Minuskin, who has often indulged my fancies. What I ended up with was a pen that really does handle like a brush, which flatters my outline-intensive drawing style. I have other pens for writing, but the Doric is a Drawing Pen.

Here's something I did with it, using one of my household models:

[pen2paper]

adorable kitty sketch!

also zipping in to mention there was a repaired adjustable nib I think Doric being admired on Facebook just this past week

[tgoto]

Google "Eric schunk napkin sketch". I met him at a recent pen club meeting where he displayed some of his sketches. He uses Karas Kustoms pens, as well as Waterman 94 & 521/2v.

Thank you for the napkin sketch information! It's interesting that he uses different pens for his sketches. Really cool! I wish he shows the nib type he uses for each sketch on his Instragram...

[tgoto]

Sidethecat's & corgicoupe's suggestion to test drive gold semi-flex (basic ringtops often at modest cost) could provide the gentle variable line motion to render depth you're seeking. SF & FA are very different. As are modern flex, except maybe the new Aurora, but that's way outside of your o inquiry.

 

edit to include since you mentioned VP - Decimo, at the CA show's you should be able to test drive a cursive italic by John M.

Indeed. I should test out some fine semi-flex nib. I have a vintage flex but it gives too much line variations without the intension. I also have SIG flex from Franklin Christoph but it is a little too wide for sketching (maybe the normal fine flex might be good?)

 

Cursive italic will add some nice characters to the drawings. I will definitely try it out in CA.

 

Thank you!