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Suggestion On Nakaya Nib



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Hello Everyone,

 

I received my Nakaya Decapod Writer with the EF Nib. I tend to write small and thought the EF Nib would be a perfect fit. Unfortunately it felt dry and very scratchy. I am going for a Nib change and wanted some suggestions if medium stub would be fine enough or should I specify the size while asking for the customization?

 

What is the minimum size I can get in a medium stub such that it does not feel scratchy

 

Please give me your suggestions on the nib.

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First of all :W2FPN: .

Not sure what happens with narrower stub widths, but a 0.5 or 0.6 mm stub is easy to handle & should not be scratchy. Depends on who does the customization. Some nib techs seem to make sharper & therefore scratchier stubs.

An M nib is about 0.4 to 0.5 mm. in width. A Japanese medium nib would make a good candidate for a narrow custom stub.

 

I use a 14c 0.5 stub as a daily writer. With a smooth (round cornered) stub of this size you can write fairly fast. At 0.5 mm., line-width-variation & shading is very possible.

Congratulations on your Decapod. Where did you get your Nakaya?

Edited by tinta

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Before you go a changing your nib, you might want to try different inks. You have not mentioned the inks you're using but try using a highly lubricated or wet ink, like a Sailor or De Atramentis ink. Stay away from Pelikan 4001s as they are not friendly to very fine or dry performing nibs.

 

I have had fine nibs write like a broad based on using a wet ink, which stressed me out no end, until I switched inks. The switch completely changed the character of the pen it writes much more like a regular fine.

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First, welcome home. As mentioned above, try different inks first. Then if you decide on nib changes or modification talk to your contact about wetness. Often all that is needed is a simply tuning to increase wetness.

 

My Website

 

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Before you go a changing your nib, you might want to try different inks. You have not mentioned the inks you're using but try using a highly lubricated or wet ink, like a Sailor or De Atramentis ink. Stay away from Pelikan 4001s as they are not friendly to very fine or dry performing nibs.

 

I have had fine nibs write like a broad based on using a wet ink, which stressed me out no end, until I switched inks. The switch completely changed the character of the pen it writes much more like a regular fine.

 

+1

 

I have 7 Nakayas. (How in the world did that happen??) I have no other make of pen where the ink used makes as big a difference. In general, mine are dry writers and write much better with wet inks, e.g., Iroshizuku. But, lubrication and some other parameters I can't identify make a difference too. So, for example, one of my driest nibs that is super scratchy with most inks loves Akkerman inks. Another loves Sheaffer Blue-Black.

 

Bottom line: Unless the tines are misaligned, which is unlikely, just try lots of inks before giving up on it.

 

David

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Thanks or taking the time to respond back on my query. I got my pets from Nibs.com and returning it back for tuning is not only a expensive hassle.

 

I will go through some inks before I send it back for change. I will keep you all updated on my experiments.

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Thanks or taking the time to respond back on my query. I got my pets from Nibs.com and returning it back for tuning is not only a expensive hassle.

 

I will go through some inks before I send it back for change. I will keep you all updated on my experiments.

That would be the best & least expensive first step. Getting into custom ground edged nibs (stubs) is another matter all together.

Best of luck

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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I agree with trying different inks. I have found in my limited experience that different pens have different ideal ink mates. :) An ink that is wonderful in one pen will be rather blah in another. The right ink really makes a pen shine.

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Bo Bo Olson

How many pens do you have?

 

Do you hold your fountain pen like a fountain pen laid behind your big index knuckle or before it like a ball point?

Holding it like a ball point = scratchy, especially with a super fine Japanese EF nib that is = to a western XXF. .........a very, very small sweet spot.

Japanese F = EF in western........M= western F. B= a M or a fat F.

 

Japanese nibs are designed for a tiny printed script.....good if you are a printer.

 

 

Wetter inks......slicker papers help with smooth too.

 

 

One should be able to write larger if one is using a wider nib....with out ending the world.

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany & https://www.peter-bo...cts/nib-systems,

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

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How many pens do you have?

 

Do you hold your fountain pen like a fountain pen laid behind your big index knuckle or before it like a ball point?

Holding it like a ball point = scratchy, especially with a super fine Japanese EF nib that is = to a western XXF. .........a very, very small sweet spot.

Japanese F = EF in western........M= western F. B= a M or a fat F.

 

Japanese nibs are designed for a tiny printed script.....good if you are a printer.

 

 

Wetter inks......slicker papers help with smooth too.

 

 

One should be able to write larger if one is using a wider nib....with out ending the world.

Thanks for this new information, I never realized that I held the ballpoint higher as compared to a fountain pen. I changed the ink and tried writing with a lighter hand. The writing is beautifully fine but I do not feel the joy in writing.

 

My other two pens are the Mont Blanc 149 with a medium nib which writs wet and big. And my current favorite the Namiki Nippon Fine Nib. This is the perfect size and smoothness till date in all the pens I tried.

 

I am still torn between keeping th EF Nib as the wife likes it. Or option 2 try a medium stub or take a safe route and opt for a wet Fine Nib.

 

I will keep you all updated on what I finally decide.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The decision seems to be oit of my hands. I lost the Nakaya Yesterday. I hope whoever finds it understands its true value and use it well.

 

I have ordered a Sailor Profit with EF Naginata Tobi nib. This will help me decide if I want a another Nakaya Decapod, Namiki Yukari Royale Vermilion or the Sailor Susutake.

 

I am attaching sample of the Namiki Fine Nib in Red Ink and Nakaya EF in the Irish Green.

post-136670-0-24347200-1497020787_thumb.jpeg

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