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Hi all!

 

For my first post on FPN, I would like to share some of my latest turnings, some wooden fountain pens I made which could be interesting because even the threads are made of wood, maybe not so common. I fitted them with Bock nibs, # 5 or 6, steel or 18K.

I'll show them crescendo...

 

First are some plain wood clipless pens, almost no deco, cigar shape. Right hand pen is snakewood, on the left: kingwood with a rollstop, some mother-of-pearl here and there:

 

 

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* * * * * * * * * * * *

 

Next are pens with clip. Pau rosa and lignum vitae with ebony rings. A funny clip for the lignum with a little pearl of wood:

 

post-133636-0-06788300-1484610586_thumb.jpg

 

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A similar one inspired by French cabinet makers of the XVIIIe century, who associated tulipwood and kingwood on their furniture, with ebony accents:

 

 

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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Thanks usk15! Let me just finish the showing off:

 

Then a pen made of double-dyed stabilized boxelder with bronze fittings. I did not photoshop the colors, I swear!

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Last but not least, "A night in Africa", blackwood with a bit more than 100 mother-or-pearl dots, 1 to 4 mm diameter, fitted with a semi-flex titanium nib. As the other ones, the weight is around 22 g.

 

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C&C really welcome!

 

 

 

 

 

.

Edited by Pierre---

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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These are gorgeous! Wooden pens have a wonderful tactile experience that no other material has. I currently own one kingwood pen with titanium furniture, and I have a cocobolo pen with gold furniture coming later this month. Those both have ebonite sections though and are essentially built as wooden shells over a pen constructed out of ebonite. The wooden sections on your pens look really nice!

 

I really like the roll stopper and clipless models. Looking forward to seeing more of your work!

 

Have you been able to test how the threads are holding up over time? Do you expect them to be stable or is there a risk of the threads crumbling over time with use?

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Hi rpsyed, and thanks for your comment!

 

I completely agree with you about tactile experience... Very dense woods (like snake wood, lignum vitae and blackwood) are directly under the skin : unforgettable touch. I only soak them in linseed oil, this light protection is enough I suppose. Paler woods (pao rosa or tulipwood) had a light sort-of-varnish-protection against ink splashes, invisible but I must admit you do not really touch the wood... The kingwood pen is lacquered, but I could have left it more natural.

 

Yes, usually, pen makers turning wood use it as a shell. One reason, I think, is that they make threads with taps and dies, which does not work nicely for wood. Other ways are more difficult to apply but the result is much better.

 

I thread wood for years. This is my experience: Crumbling can occur with some soft woods, I just don't use them. :rolleyes: With hard woods sweetly used, crumbling is rare. It can sometimes be seen and always comes from a weakness like a knot or an old crack. It can be seen very quickly after turning, so I just discard the piece and make a new one. Pen turning is easy ! :lticaptd:

 

One bigger problem is shrinkage, due to wood being not perfectly dry, or cut from too small logs, or sewn in the wrong direction; then one thread is becoming oval and does not screw nicely. Rather easy to avoid, mostly my problem. But also partly user's, he has to avoid humidity changes, or dryness'. I would not advice a wooden pen for an Amazonian customer... And please just don't stir your coffee too long with your pen. Btw, I do it - quickly - with all my pens, just to check shrinkage and finish issues... No kidding!

 

The other big issue is cracking, which can always happen if the pen is badly stored or used (heating, direct sun, kids under 28, washing machine, etc), I would say user's problem. Most of the time, cracking can be easily avoided. I must admit there is still a risk, very little if the wood is well chosen and if you take care. Or better said it will occur, but centuries ahead at best. It is the same with horn, ivory, antler or nearly every natural material. Having no metallic tube inside helps a lot. I would never bet on a snakewood tubed kit pen.

 

Hope I answered your questions. And please excuse my faulty English...

Edited by Pierre---

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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Hi all!

 

For my first post on FPN, I would like to share some of my latest turnings, some wooden fountain pens I made which could be interesting because even the threads are made of wood, maybe not so common. I fitted them with Bock nibs, # 5 or 6, steel or 18K.

I'll show them crescendo...

 

First are some plain wood clipless pens, almost no deco, cigar shape. Right hand pen is snakewood, on the left: kingwood with a rollstop, some mother-of-pearl here and there:

attachicon.gif100_2080 comp.jpg

 

attachicon.gif100_1663 bis.jpg

 

attachicon.gif100_2053.JPG

 

* * * * * * * * * * * *

 

Next are pens with clip. Pau rosa and lignum vitae with ebony rings. A funny clip for the lignum with a little pearl of wood:

 

attachicon.gif100_1550 bis comp.jpg

 

attachicon.gif100_1609 comp.jpg

 

A similar one inspired by French cabinet makers of the XVIIIe century, who associated tulipwood and kingwood on their furniture, with ebony accents:

 

attachicon.gif100_1693 comp.jpg

wow...

ur work speaks for itself

vaibhav mehandiratta

architect & fountain pen connoisseur

 

blog | instagram | twitter

 

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Well, I never thought I'd like a wooden pen (I was actually expecting to see horrible kit pens when I clicked this topic).

 

You have proven me wrong!

 

Every single one of those pens is a true work of art. Thanks for sharing then with us.

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Oruc Gazi Kutluer

Great works :))))

 

I am also working on wooden fountain pens recently..

 

How do you achieve solution for ink staining problems? Especially for grip?

Also, I am curious about the stregth of the threads..

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Great works :))))

I am very sensible to your compliment Oruc, all the more because I deeply admire your work. Teşekkür ederim !

 

How do you achieve solution for ink staining problems? Especially for grip?

I have several ways to fight ink staining, depending of the wood:

- I try to choose a very very dense wood.

- I soak it in linseed oil, overnight, twice or thrice and I let it dry in between.

- I ask customers to take care. Once they buy it, it's their pen actually...

- More seriously, when I am afraid the wood could be stained I spread 10 or 15 layers of CA. I give it a satin finish looking just like wood (the tulipwood pen above for instance), or glossy (the kingwood pen I showed). I don't do that for every wood (blackwood or snakewood have none), maybe I should, at least on the section.

 

Also, I am curious about the strength of the threads..

I am curious too! :P The main danger is when you thread. Once both male and female are done and work well without damage, I suppose you have good chance. The secret is to choose the good wood. Very few work well.

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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Very nice pens. I especially liked the all wood pens. Something about them being so simple. Nothing distracting from the wood.

You must have a lot of experience working with wood to be able to do the threads like that.

Josh

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the kingwood and snakewood look stunning.

Thanks Rudy!

 

Very nice pens. I especially liked the all wood pens. Something about them being so simple. Nothing distracting from the wood.

 

You must have a lot of experience working with wood to be able to do the threads like that.

 

Josh

Josh, I agree, nothing better as a simple snakewood cigar pen without any ring or stuff...

I worked quite I long time in ancient music instruments restoration, it teaches precision...

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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Pierre, this is absolutely beautiful work! :thumbup:

 

Might I ask how did you make the pen box for the night in Africa one?

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Snakewood one is simply STUNNING.

This wood is gorgeous, i have to admit. Making an ugly pen with it would be clumsiness. :)

 

Pierre, this is absolutely beautiful work! :thumbup:

 

Might I ask how did you make the pen box for the night in Africa one?

Thank you Flippy! The box is made of cardboard, covered with nice bookbinder's papers, also acting as hinges. Two invisible magnets for a good close. I made a bunch of them for my best pens.

post-133636-0-21841600-1485982512.jpg

Web shop : Rue du Stylo

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amberleadavis

Beautiful. Thank you for sharing.

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Really like the snakewood one!

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  • 4 years later...
oblique

Night in Africa is beautiful. I'm impressed with your work! How is it going?

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