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A Vintage Waterman Found (But Can It Be Restored?). No Photographs (Yet)


Tintafuego
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So, it was a hot summer's day here in the southern hemisphere of the world, and in a flea market a young fountain pen enthusiast saw what seemed to be a dusty leather cup (you know, the ones you use to play with dices?) with about five vintage pens (it was some days ago, so I don't remember the exact number). Among these pens there was a Parker 51, a Shaeffer PFM (in a poor condition), and what appeared to be in the eyes of this inexperienced young one a vintage Waterman. No more story mode.

I asked the vendor if I could see what was in there and to my delight/horror I pulled out an upside down Waterman with no cap from the leather cup. One tine was broken and missing, while the other was completely bent forming a U around the feed (wich seemed ok), but it was there in one piece. The sac was carbonized and the lever was full of rust. By the size of the body (wich was grey, but that may be different after cleaning) I would say that it was and oversized pen, and the nib was to die for: long tines, low shoulders, paper thin 14k gold, heart shaped breather hole, and the "Waterman Ideal's" words in an arch (I don't quite remember the number. Could it be 8?).

It was really something new for me. I had never even held or seen a vintage pen before. I knew they were suposed to be very light as compared to what a fountain pen tends be in terms of weight now, but to hold one of these was a surprise.

The guy wanted about US$25 for it. It's still there. So, all kinds of opinions, advices, ramblings, etc. accepted. Will provide you some pics when possible, wich would be the day after tomorrow in the afternoon.

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Much depends on the number on the end of the barrel/nib, but you're looking at most at a barrel, feed, and lever (?) as parts. The grey color of the barrel doesn't sound good, especially if it's chased. And again, depending on the model, a replacement cap and nib from a dealer can often cost as much/more than the entire pen would in the wild (doesn't sound like the nib is salvageable). But if the pen is a 58, I personally wouldn't pass up these parts for $25.

aka popcod (FPGeeks)

 

WANTED: Vintage Pens with White Metal Trim! —> Sheaffer: OS Balance w/ reverse trim (grey/red vein) | Balance (grey/red fleck); Canadian Balance 5-30 (roseglow, green, ebonized pearl); First-Yr Crest (silver cap) | Waterman: Lady Patricia (clean persian) | Wahl-Eversharp: "half" Coronet (rhodium cap); Doric (Cathay); Skyline (SS/Sterling Cap) | Rebadged Parkers: Diamond Medal (grey pinstripe, marble stripe, etc.)

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Thanks for sharing your view. I feel the same way as you about the feed and section (they seemed ok), but could you tell me more about your view of the body with the few data I gave? I really am at a lost with vintage Watermans barrel colors, numbers, etc. And if there is nothing to be done about the nib, well... too bad. It still was a joy to look at, missing tine and all.

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Thanks for sharing your view. I feel the same way as you about the feed and section (they seemed ok), but could you tell me more about your view of the body with the few data I gave? I really am at a lost with vintage Watermans barrel colors, numbers, etc. And if there is nothing to be done about the nib, well... too bad. It still was a joy to look at, missing tine and all.

 

There should be a number on the bottom end of the barrel. The last digit of the number on the barrel is the most important. On most models it tells us something about the size of the pen and the nib. For example, from smallest to largest one series of pens was 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, and 20. For another series, it went 52, 54, 56, 58. If there's a 'V' after the number, its half-length. If there's a '1/2' after the number, its the skinny version. There are some additional details, but this should get you started. The larger pens are more valuable.

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There should be a number on the bottom end of the barrel. The last digit of the number on the barrel is the most important. On most models it tells us something about the size of the pen and the nib. For example, from smallest to largest one series of pens was 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, and 20. For another series, it went 52, 54, 56, 58. If there's a 'V' after the number, its half-length. If there's a '1/2' after the number, its the skinny version. There are some additional details, but this should get you started. The larger pens are more valuable.

Thank you for this info. I will update with pics when possible.

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