Wahl All MEtal Pen Sac Replacement

[Wahlnut]

I just voted, and was surprised to see the top category of the the Skyline devotees. That model impresses me as being so ungainly looking, it just may be appealing, in maybe a Hudson Hornet kind of way. Anyway, my attraction is to the 20s era gold filled all metal pens, FWIW. Just picked up a #2, Greek key, plastic section model, the most common of the common, but, still, it is a nicely proportioned design. Now scheming for others. I need to look at Da Book re replacing the sac in the one I have, obviously petrified. Any hot tips for this? I hope this is a straightforward proposition. BTW, the filler lever on my pen bulges upward at its middle, rather than being flush with the barrel surface along its length. Is this proper? Doesn't seem correct, but, then again, I imagine that over forcing it on filling would bend it in the opposite direction. TIA for any guidance!

 

Sac replacement in the All Metal Pen with the Black Hard Rubber section is very straight forward. The section is a "friction fit", but because of the compressibility of the black hard rubber, over the years the effect of the barrel threads pressing inwardly on the section area where they mate, may have developed complimentary thread grooves. Consequently it is a good idea to "unscrew" the section with an even counter-clockwise twisting motion. You should use some heat (about 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit as the previous repairer/owner may have used what Wahl called "Cement No. 1"...what you and I call shellac. Shellac melts around 140 degrees. The good thing about metal pens and overlays is that the metal acts as a heat sink and keeps the heat from harming the section (although not against outrages heat, mind you). After section and old sac removal, you will see that the section has the normal nipple onto which the sac was cemented with shellac (usually). Remove the old sac and the brittle/crystallized sac rubber from the nipple. Do take the time to knock out the feed and nib and clean well, then replace feed and nib into section. You may find that the presser bar may simply fall out of the pen when you remove the old sac. It is aligned in the barrel by being slid onto the lever prongs/ears...some also have a presser bar anchor at the closed barrel end. Some early models have something like a "J" bar pressed or soldered inside. Whatever it is you will need to make sure it is intact or replaced before inserting the newly resacked section. Because of the possibility of there being compression induced threads in the section left by the barrel, over the years, you will find it easier to screw the section in. You will find that in many cases when the section bottoms out against the barrel in this screw-on process the nib will not align with the lever. It may take a few tries to get the section started on the right thread position to achieve this alignment, but it can be done.

 

Anyway that is a basic overview.

 

Hope that helps you.

 

Syd

 

[Nihontochicken]

Thanks, Syd, for your explanation of the sac replacement. Might I further trouble you, should the fill lever be flush with the barrel over its length, or is the slight outward bulge in the middle of my lever correct? Should I try to straighten it out when I do the sac replacement? Also, what is the correct sac size for this pen (#2 nib, 3 3/4 inches long capped, not including the ring), and is a silicone sac appropriate? Thanks again!

[Wahlnut]

Thanks, Syd, for your explanation of the sac replacement. Might I further trouble you, should the fill lever be flush with the barrel over its length, or is the slight outward bulge in the middle of my lever correct? Should I try to straighten it out when I do the sac replacement? Also, what is the correct sac size for this pen (#2 nib, 3 3/4 inches long capped, not including the ring), and is a silicone sac appropriate? Thanks again!

 

 

There were 2 different lever designs in the All Metal Pens. On the early models the lever had a distinct raised "spine" that ran along its length from the lower rounded thumb nail lift to the front end of the lever where the raised spine turns toward the barrel just where the front end of th lever is inside the barrel and there is a definite hump right there, but it is such an obvious part of a good design that I doubt you could mistake it for a flaw. If this raised area or spine as I call it is the hump you refer to there is nothing wrong with that. The later models' lever closed flush with the barrel.

 

Now if the hump you are trying to describe is in the middle of the lever and the high point runs side to side on the lever something is wrong. The plastic pens of 1926-7 and onward did have a peak or hump in the middle of the lever, but that is the wrong lever for a metal pen. Got a picture? If it is bent, it is extremely hard to straighten in the pen, and even if removed and bent straight in a cushioned vise, there is no telling how the lever may buckle at its sides in the process...easier to replace it.

 

Correct sac size for this pen is 17 1/2 x 2 1/8" straight, but any 17 1/2 cut to size will do. No need for the extra expense of a silicone sac because the standard black rubber sac will not discolor anything about a gold filled all metal pen.

 

Hope this heps too.

Syd

 

[Nihontochicken]

Thank you again, Syd. From what you said, I believe the lever must be as made, whether it is original or a replacement, since a bend would bow the sides in or out, which isn't the case here. I would prefer spending more for a silicone sac if, as I have read, it will last substantially longer than a latex sac (the one currently inside the pen making a disconcerting crunching noise when I forced the lever out a bit to check its sides ). I appreciate your help!

[Nihontochicken]

Well, I just scored a little sister to the above pen, this one a #0 nib GF pen with a metal section. Are there any significant differences in replacing the sac in this pen as opposed to the #2 nib, BHR section pen? TIA!

[Wahlnut]

Well, I just scored a little sister to the above pen, this one a #0 nib GF pen with a metal section. Are there any significant differences in replacing the sac in this pen as opposed to the #2 nib, BHR section pen? TIA!

Nope, should be the same, except smaller sac.

Syd

[Nihontochicken]

Thanks, Syd! Now to screw up my courage and give it a go. Let's see, where did I put my hammer and screwdriver?

[Nihontochicken]

Do take the time to knock out the feed and nib and clean well, then replace feed and nib into section.

 

Syd (or anyone), does this mean that the feed and nib need to be driven out of the section from the rear as opposed to being grasped and twisted/pulled from the front? Is there a lubricant that should be used to facilitate removal? TIA!

[Wahlnut]

Do take the time to knock out the feed and nib and clean well, then replace feed and nib into section.

 

Syd (or anyone), does this mean that the feed and nib need to be driven out of the section from the rear as opposed to being grasped and twisted/pulled from the front? Is there a lubricant that should be used to facilitate removal? TIA!

 

Yes you knock out the nib and feed from the back (after removing the sac of course) using a knock-out block and a knock out rod of the right diameter to drive out the nib and feed together. Do not try to twist or pull the nib and feed out. 99% chance you will break the feed doing that. You will be well served if you to read up on this and other general/simple(er) pen repair topics before doing anything. Frank Dubiels Pen Repair manual is very helpful and is available from a number of vintage pen sources. Also Dennis Lively's 2 Pen Repair DVD's are very instructive.

 

Lubricant for nib and feed removal? Not exactly but do soak the the section in some water with sudsy ammonia ( about 5:1 water:ammonia) for a few seconds before doing the knock-out. The sudsy ammonia will dissolve old crusty ink that might otherwise make it hard to remove the nib and feed. This little bit of slippery liquid will penetrate some and make the knock out process a lot easier.

 

Good luck.

[Nihontochicken]

Do not try to twist or pull the nib and feed out. 99% chance you will break the feed doing that. You will be well served if you to read up on this and other general/simple(er) pen repair topics before doing anything. Frank Dubiels Pen Repair manual is very helpful and is available from a number of vintage pen sources. Also Dennis Lively's 2 Pen Repair DVD's are very instructive.

 

Thanks, Syd, that's was I was concerned about. I do have "Da Book", but while the pen-specific, more difficult refurbs are well indexed, my quick scan failed to find the more general repair covering the Wahl feed/nib, which is hiding somewhere in the front matter, I assume. Will have to go search again. Too bad about the required knock out removal, I just obtained a most excellent condition #2 pen, working with intact sac, except it's missing its nib. I was thinking of switching over the nib from another such pen in lesser condition with crunchy sac, too bad I'll have to sacrifice the good sac to make the switch. Typical Murphy's Law, sigh. Thanks again, I appreciate the help!

[artaddict]

Syd,

What a detailed response! Makes me want to get a Wahl pen that needs resaccing!

[PenLovingE]

Hey, @Wahlnut,

 

Sorry to resurrect an old post but I have a question about my all metal variant. There is a step inside the pen for the nipple of the grip section and it's too narrow to get the sac I bought from you (thank you!). How do I get the sac in?