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All Time Favorite Pen/paper/ink Combo


phillieskjk

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This has probably been posted in one form or another before, but why not find out once again. What is your ultimate favorite combination of Pen/Ink/Paper, the best that you could possibly think of, your idea of a perfect writing experience? For me at least, it's my Noodler's Konrad (with my adjusted nib) HP 32 lb Paper, and Iroshizuku kon-peki. How about you?

 

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I wish I could safely use BSB in any pen I want. Paper, any hi quality paper will work just fine.

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English Basildon Bond and Three Candle Sticks writing paper. Franklin Christoph Piper filled with Rohrer and Klingner Salix.

They came as a boon, and a blessing to men,
The Pickwick, the Owl and the Waverley pen

Sincerely yours,

Pickwick

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That's easy: Diamine Twilight, P45, Black 'n Red spiral notebook.

It's hard work to tell which is Old Harry when everybody's got boots on.

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There are actually several combinations between which I would not notice that much difference. But set me to writing with my Pilot Custom Heritage 92 (FM nib) Namiki Blue ink, on Life Noble blank paper (I don't like lines) and I'll happily keep it up for as long as I need to.

"So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable creature, since it enables one to find or make a reason for everything one has a mind to do."

 

- Benjamin Franklin

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Tough choice of pens since I have 50 and all are inked and I write with them at least once/week. I have been using stationery from American Stationery of late and really like both in Monarch and Standard size. Ink would be Pilot Blue and/or Noodler's X-Feather. I have to contradict my self here because my favorite pen is my first-A 2007 MB Starwalker that my late wife gave me for my 62nd birthday. It's cartridge-only and I use MB Mystery Black in it. I could refill the empties but choose not to do that.

Pat Barnes a.k.a. billz

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Either my pilot 823 or my 1950s Pelikan tortoise 400nn with just about any Japanese ink, (my current favorite is an ink sailor makes for Shousaikan called shin-zen--beautiful!!) and my Timor river notebook.

I like Japanese inks on this paper because I find they don't take as long to dry as some of my other inks. This combination is a joy to write with!

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Any pen/ Any Ink/ Roaring Springs Environotes (BioBase) filler paper. I have found this paper to hold up to all the Diamine (36), KWZI (three IG and one standard), J Herbin (2), Abraxas(2), R&K(1) inks I have tried them on...

 

I suppose if I were to choose a pen it would be an Esterbrook Dollar with a 2668/9668 nib, or a 3xxx nib. Or my Esterbrook 2-L as I prefer an oblique line in my writing.

 

Tomoe River, Life Bank Paper, or G. Lalo would be my go to non-lined paper.

 

it's very difficult to limit this to all time favorites.....too many great pens, inks, and paper out there that are enjoyable to use.

FP Ink Orphanage-Is an ink not working with your pens, not the color you're looking for, is never to see the light of day again?!! If this is you, and the ink is in fine condition otherwise, don't dump it down the sink, or throw it into the trash, send it to me (payment can be negotiated), and I will provide it a nice safe home with love, and a decent meal of paper! Please PM me!<span style='color: #000080'>For Sale:</span> TBA

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This is hard, first, what do you want the nib to do? What width, what flex? Shading ink of course. Often ‘true’ regular flex nibs in F&M are better being dryer than the wetter semi-flex. If one picks the ink width and paper well, semi-flex can be great.

 

:headsmack: :doh: :crybaby: :rolleyes: I forgot to list exact pen, nib....too late to do that again. German pens '50's mostly out side the 1745....some 'true regular flex' M&F....some semi-flex more towards OB, and a Waterman 52 superflex.

 

Before we go off, I have a system of grading ink and paper. In I do not like feathering or woolly lines. OCD is such a more polite term than AR to the Max.

BEF…bare eye feathering, seen while sitting.

NEF…near eye feathering or woolly line. With the paper just before your eyes.

MEF…mag eye feathering, feathering or woolly line seen using a honking big magnifying glass. Buy more of this paper. Buy more of the better inks tested.

No MEF…..no feathering or wooly line seen through a big honking magnifying glass….and no using a 10X loupe is stupid, so is an electron microscope. Stockpile this paper. Sell it on the black market. Buy more of its best inks.

 

All I can offer is a long wander though some papers, and some inks….with no clean cut winner…to the very end. So I must thank you for starting this thread.

I have read that Fugi-Xerox is better HP; but which one there is at least two. One of these days I’m going to remember that after I’ve been to my bank vault.

For pure sinfully good, forbidden to use in Kansas on Sunday writing, Rostler 100g.... a feather champ. Some of the 100% cotton are very close...and feather near as much. I've not been lucky with 50% either. 25% seems best...for rag.

 

Best paper have or tried, the 8 of 12 sheets of '70's no name pad....with no hope of ever finding it...and as of yet never matched...all inks and pens tried......of the close to 50 paper's I've tried. Once even cheap paper was coated for fountain pen use.....and I wasted the whole block back in the day with a Ball Point!

 

One of the better old cheap papers one side....Eaton's Corrasable Typewriter Paper...16lb!!!!! :o Medium-weight as it was called then. Now that is light weight. One side is very well coated....in it is typewriting paper...the other no money was wasted on that. It does bleed through major. Still well worth looking for in US Ebay. I save that paper....it's fun to write on.

 

I never decided which of the 100-110-120, 150-170g weight expensive Gmund papers...some in three paper types was best. That blew my theory that 'heavy' paper was always best. Depending on nib and ink, even the lower weight papers....sometimes did as well or better than the heavy....and the other way too. There is no perfect paper, no perfect ink, nor perfect ink….what is hoped for here is some folks Perfect Cubed.

 

Unfortunately, I can't use the 4 basic papers Aldi had labeled for itself for only two years. All four: 90g for 3 and 120 for the linen style, were good to very good, but the 90g marbled paper was very pleasant. It was the first time I had all four papers...hammered, laid, linen and marbled. 2 packs each = a life time supply in my yardarm years.

 

Southworth makes some real good papers....worth having. I have 8-10 packs, I picked up in the Stated a few years back. After testing found them to be good, to very good but not grail paper. Well worth buying. However as much as I like to write on 100% cotton 32 pound paper is one thing; that it does have a near eye woolly line is another. But Resume paper is for printing?????

Someone was so nice as to send me a sample of Faber Castell Garnet and Edelstine ink of the year Garnet. Faber Castel was the better. The Pelikan ink was just a red ink. That cheap Aldi marble paper beat that 32 pound Southworth paper. And all the rest too from spot sampling.

 

I am looking at a cut off sheet of now successfully hidden one of those old green cloth covered 8 1/2 x 11 Government journal books :notworthy1: ……do buy them should you ever find them. They are that great old normal paper that so loves fountain pens. Small, medium or large, it is that old time normal great paper. Many have told us to chase old paper on Ebay.

 

Well, MB Sepia don’t count in this thread; I’m very glad I went out to German Ebay and got a second bottle. I had a semi-flex Deguussa F-EF nib mounted in an Artus-Ballite (Lamy) pen of the early ‘50s. Then I had a superflex Degusssa nib mounted in a solidly made no name ‘Pewado’ war pen. That ink, that nib, this paper. Great.

Sigh, an impossible to get paper and inks...sigh. That paper might be in Army-Navy stores or American Ebay. It costs a fortune to ship by US mail, over here....and I forgot to look for an Army Navy store the last time I was back....I forgot. :crybaby: .... and Written lists are So In.

 

Zander 110g...one ink...both sides..one must check both sides...there is an A and B side (we need a snob smilie) ....under the Honking Big magnifying glass...the thought of a whisper of woolly line....just enough to take it out of perfect paper...99= not 100. Available, and postage is dirt cheap from Germany to the US.

 

Worth buying any of the three M&K papers. In the same class of worth to buy papers. Can be bought online. Buy all three, the typewriter paper may be best to write on (being typewriter paper has some showthrough, in typewriter paper is designed for one side use.)...mailing from Germany to the States is dirt cheap.Sigh cubed...I tested many inks and nibs...and didn't write down the paper. :headsmack: That’s what happens to you when you make the mistake of collecting paper last.

 

Avery Zwickform 170 g smooth slick paper gives a hell of a good shading...don't buy the 100-120 g stuff though.

Ah ha...that's why I divided out all those papers...40 different ones or so; some from fine posters, ....into 9 paper clipped piles!!! :headsmack: :doh:

 

Back then I was dividing the paper up between No Bare Eyed Feathering (seen when sitting) with = paper weight to echo, ghosting and bleed through.

I'd not then really pulled out my Honking Big magnifying glass or had not yet 'perfected' my anti-wooly line system. It was a test of nibs (17) first; paper second and ESSR ink. There was a time when that ink was real in as the best BB ink. There was 20-40 pages in that thread. Reputed as better than Diamine register's ink, cheaper and in a bigger bottle. It turns from blue to black often right before your eyes....any good BB ink takes up to 24 hours to change.....sometimes ESSR took lots less, or lots longer in it was the paper that determined how long it took I would have to hunt again...and am not going to but Eaton's paper that took the longest. A month later it was still blue...and a great shading paper it was indeed.

 

 

Best was that 35-40 year old no name. I told you about ...I was testing ESSR with 17 different nibs.

2nd was Aldi paper...and not the 90g and +, but the 80g colored paper...this sheet was green, but all the other colors was outstanding. ( did get a second 250 sheet ream of it) Again on that 49 paper 17 nib, ESSR test.

3rd. a real shock a Brunnen marbled 120 paper...in every other Brunnen paper was only good for the printer. As far as I can remember this paper didn't do well with other inks, so landed in the printer. Don't buy Brunner....outside of the M&K paper they own.

4th...Gohrsmuhle Zander 110 g..ESSR test. (The old 35 year old Zander bank/Post or 80g Bond paper is a slight tad better than the new one. It is for 80g a very,very good paper. I should get this 110 g paper again...and I have a Zander sample package, with a lot of good papers….after tomorrows pick up, no more ink…no more pens. Just paper!!!) I did have paper too good for my Jukie daisywheel printer and my later laser printer. The good bond typewriter papers…they just laid there getting old…in my ball point days.

5th....an Unknown 160-200 laid paper also 35 years old....and I only a two or three of sheets...a fool and his paper are soon parted.

 

Papers that I have but not tried Clairefontaine 160g DCP...Digital Color Paper...could well be something good. Nope...feathers too much....somewhat good shading....and too thick for the old laser printer of mine. Some inks, skinny nib paper...ESSR does well of course Lie de The...

 

 

Do not stumble into papers half haphazardly. Organization is 3/4th the battle.

 

Sorry I can’t give you a 3 cubed match of nib, ink and paper.

 

Some inks do look better on some papers with some nibs than ‘normal’, Sandy1 proves that.

Inks that catch my eye as I leaf through Gmund papers. Edelstein Topaz…in an Osmia 773 semi-flex KM. Beige Gmund 100g. R&K Scaborsa in a superflex XXF-BBB Waterman 52. DA Copper Brown is good in a ‘true’ regular flex Reform 1745 F and horrible in a Degussa Easy Full Flex/superflex. T

hen the Crème 120 g was good paper, no BEF/ before eye feathering, but had an echo. Topaz was best, Lie de The in a regular flex F next. Herbin did well…Aventurine also…on some papers it feathers. R&K Scobrosa didn’t quite shade as well as expected…and was darker than on the very next papers.

I have two ‘twin’ papers one crème the other Beige both 100g…. Bleu Pervenche jumps off the page on one, shades better on the other. Best shading in that ink in ‘true’ regular flex F nibs. One must match width and flex.

 

Lie de The, Scarabosa are good to very good shading inks.

 

Well, thanks to this thread…. I’ve solved my yearlong dithering :lticaptd: ,…my best paper is at E35 for 50 sheets, Gmund Blanc Beige…in either 120 or 170 g. The 120g won…the other has the slightest hair of woolly lines on some inks. …Oh My, Diamine inks don’t feather on this paper….even under magnification. For me, both Diamine and the slightly dryer Akkerman Diamine feather as a given. Akkerman has some nice colors….I’m glad I found a paper for them.

 

Top inks, Herbin Bleu Pervenche, Café de Illes, Lie de The`.

R&K Verdura beats MB Irish Green by a nose, Pelikan 4001 by a neck…4001 best buy.

Topaz as far as I can see is the best Edelstein ink.

R&K Scaboisa is on most papers one of the best of all.

 

Sadly, R&K Alt Gruengold, didn't jump off any of the papers. Still a fun ink. DA Golf is a good stand alone shading sliding towards murky that can not be compared to other inks....similar to Gruengold. Not so much in color but as stand alone inks. It will never win a green test...could win a green+shading test...or place well.

 

The laid Verge De France 160g showed no real wooly line but because it is laid…wooly can be mistaken thought to have occurred because the paper is laid. M or B is good for laid paper.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Wow! Great insight, especially on paper. I like to think I know a decent amount about pens and ink, but paper has always been my least knowledgeable point. I'll be saving this for future reference!

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Any of my Pilot, Sailor, or Waterman pens with any ink on Miquelrius squared notebook paper.

I've been on a quest to see if I could commit all Seven Deadly Sins in a single day. Finally, it dawned on me I shouldn't try for the One Day Wonder Prize for all seven in one day. It's simply out of any question as you can't commit decent sloth while busily ticking the other six off your crowded "to do" list. -- ViolinWriter

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Custom Pelikan M800 blue lizard with Diamine Mediterranean Blue on Clairfontaine paper

PAKMAN

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I just ended my tomoe river notebook and started my Mnemosyne notebook. Holy cow! That and a wet pen with a sailor ink is like heaven! It shades without feathering and doesn't have the super long dry time of Tomoe!

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I just ended my tomoe river notebook and started my Mnemosyne notebook. Holy cow! That and a wet pen with a sailor ink is like heaven! It shades without feathering and doesn't have the super long dry time of Tomoe!

 

I was writing in my little sample Mnemosyne notebook and something caused me to say, "Holy cow, I think this is my new favorite notebook." So I promptly added it to my wishlist and bought one the next time I ordered. By the time it arrived, whatever pen and ink I must have been using had run dry, and now I can't remember which combo it was!!! Fortunately, I still have the little sample notebook, so I'll figure it out eventually, but there's a lesson for you: when you find a fabulous combo, make note of what it is! :lol:

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but there's a lesson for you: when you find a fabulous combo, make note of what it is! :lol:

Oh I completely agree with you! I have to remember what paper to use which Noodler's inks with, but these sailor and iro inks seem to go great in any pen on any paper!

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A Platinum #3776 Music Nib and Diamine Mediterranean Blue make me happy. Paper can be anything good with fountain pen ink, but favorites would be Clairefontaine, Tomoe River and Apica.

 

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    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
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      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
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