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Pelikan 100 Piston Cork-Replacement Question.


dutch-courage

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Hi everyone !

 

Last week I was so lucky to find a vintage Pelikan 100 for a very low price.

Since the piston was stuck I set myself to the task of repairing the poor thing.

Everything went well so far; I managed to get the piston moving and out of

the body.

Now I want to replace the washer with a cork.

My question (see picture) :

post-130121-0-43946600-1466350021_thumb.jpg

Can the end of the piston (where the arrow is pointing) be screwed of, and

if so do I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise ?

 

If it can't be screwed of then how do I put the cork in place ?

 

Since I am new at this any help is welcome.

 

Best,

Peter

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Hi everyone !

 

Last week I was so lucky to find a vintage Pelikan 100 for a very low price.

Since the piston was stuck I set myself to the task of repairing the poor thing.

Everything went well so far; I managed to get the piston moving and out of

the body.

Now I want to replace the washer with a cork.

My question (see picture) :

attachicon.gifpelikan washer.jpg

Can the end of the piston (where the arrow is pointing) be screwed of, and

if so do I turn it clockwise or counterclockwise ?

 

If it can't be screwed of then how do I put the cork in place ?

 

Since I am new at this any help is welcome.

 

Best,

Peter

 

 

The front disk is friction fit and remove by knocking it out from the back

using a small steel and or brass rod {K&S}. Or you can fashion from

a paper clip. For further reading on restoring Pelikan 100's suggest you

mosey on over to www.caprafico.com/home-69..site of Tom Westerich....

Pens.....Pen Facts and on right side Pelikan Pen Restoration......Good

luck on your first 100 restoration.

 

Fred

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The front disk is friction fit and remove by knocking it out from the back

using a small steel and or brass rod {K&S}. Or you can fashion from

a paper clip. For further reading on restoring Pelikan 100's suggest you

mosey on over to www.caprafico.com/home-69..site of Tom Westerich....

Pens.....Pen Facts and on right side Pelikan Pen Restoration......Good

luck on your first 100 restoration.

 

Fred.

Hi Fred

I tried to knock out the disk from the inside, using a metal rod, but I found that

rather tricky as the fit was very tight and the rod and disk are vulnerable.

So I used hot water from the hot-water tab (70 degrees centigrade) to warm the rod and then

carefully knock the disk out from the inside.

This worked well and I got the disc out without damaging it.

So now I will take a cork from my collection and fit it onto the rod.

Thank you for your advice and the link.

Best,

Peter

Edited by dutch-courage
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Hi Fred

I tried to knock out the disk from the inside, using a metal rod, but I found that

rather tricky as the fit was very tight and the rod and disk are vulnerable.

So I used hot water from the hot-water tab (70 degrees centigrade) to warm the rod and then

carefully knock the disk out from the inside.

This worked well and I got the disc out without damaging it.

So now I will take a cork from my collection and fit it onto the rod.

Thank you for your advice and the link.

Best,

Peter

 

Peter Welcome Aboard.

Glad I could be of some help.

 

Fred

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Peter Welcome Aboard.

Glad I could be of some help.

 

Fred

 

Hi Fred,

I only joined the fountainpennetwork very recently

(After lurking here for a year).

This site is a massive pool of knowledge which is

one of the main reasons why I joined.

I finished the recorking of the Pelikan 100; reassembled

the pen and it works and writes like a dream - an instant

favourite.

Thanks again !

Best,

Peter

Edited by dutch-courage
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The cork should be boiled in what the British call paraffin/mineral oil, and beeswax. Then smeared with silicon grease. That should make your cork good for 70 years or so.

 

Marshall and Lawrence claim that properly prepared cork is the smoothest, even doing some '50's MB's with cork than the plastic gasket they had.

 

Those who decide to go fast and easy and put in O rings will have to grease the pen very often.....and in other brands will ruin the pen quickly by yanking out the piston too often. The pistons of vintage pens were not designed to be yanked apart often like a Twsbi or Ahab.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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The cork should be boiled in what the British call paraffin/mineral oil, and beeswax. Then smeared with silicon grease. That should make your cork good for 70 years or so.

 

Marshall and Lawrence claim that properly prepared cork is the smoothest, even doing some '50's MB's with cork than the plastic gasket they had.

 

Those who decide to go fast and easy and put in O rings will have to grease the pen very often.....and in other brands will ruin the pen quickly by yanking out the piston too often. The pistons of vintage pens were not designed to be yanked apart often like a Twsbi or Ahab.

 

Hi Bo Bo !

Thank you for the additional information.

I only used some silicon grease on the cork.

I will use the parafin/Bwax recipe next time.

What ratio beewax/parafin oil percentagewise ?

Can you also use coconut oil instead of parafin oil ?

Best,

Peter

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I don't know....I think it's 50-50 and I think coconut oil would have a more limited shelf life. A bit more degradable too soon....I wouldn't use olive oil either.

 

Paraffin or mineral oil is easy to get....if need be go to a Pharmacist shop, there are still medical uses of it.

 

Marshall & Oldfield don't say exactly, but I believe Fountainable, who repairs pens said 50-50. All you need is a beeswax candle and a real small cough drop tin to boil your cork. 70-30 oil to wax might work too.

I've not gotten around to it...all the parts ... no time (hand sanding takes a long time***), and planned to just put in wax until rather thick. If you think 30% wax is enough might well be. I'd not go under that.

 

I don't know how long to boil the cork either....but think 3 or so minutes should be enough....just plop it in the boiling mix.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Prior to waxing the cork, I'd advise to glue it in place.Since you used hot water to knock-out the front, it is likely to have loosend that friction fit. This may result in cork and the front disk being slide off in barrel when piston moves up.This happens only sometimes but it's better to avoid it by glueing the cork in place.Glue a bigger diameter cork and work it out with 500 and 800 grit.Then bathe in hot paraffin for a while.This preserves from dry-out and gives that additional friction reduction.

Edited by kawuska
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I don't know....I think it's 50-50 and I think coconut oil would have a more limited shelf life. A bit more degradable too soon....I wouldn't use olive oil either.

 

Paraffin or mineral oil is easy to get....if need be go to a Pharmacist shop, there are still medical uses of it.

 

Marshall & Oldfield don't say exactly, but I believe Fountainable, who repairs pens said 50-50. All you need is a beeswax candle and a real small cough drop tin to boil your cork. 70-30 oil to wax might work too.

I've not gotten around to it...all the parts ... no time (hand sanding takes a long time***), and planned to just put in wax until rather thick. If you think 30% wax is enough might well be. I'd not go under that.

 

I don't know how long to boil the cork either....but think 3 or so minutes should be enough....just plop it in the boiling mix.

Okay,

I will do that next time.

thnx !

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Prior to waxing the cork, I'd advise to glue it in place.Since you used hot water to knock-out the front, it is likely to have loosend that friction fit. This may result in cork and the front disk being slide off in barrel when piston moves up.This happens only sometimes but it's better to avoid it by glueing the cork in place.Glue a bigger diameter cork and work it out with 500 and 800 grit.Then bathe in hot paraffin for a while.This preserves from dry-out and gives that additional friction reduction.

Hi Kawuska,

I'm a bit sceptic.

Surely you mean to only glue the cork - not the disk, because that might turn out to

be irreversible.

What type of glue you'd suggest ?

 

Best,

Peter

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Hi Kawuska,

I just found an old "Ero" piston fountain pen that needs a new cork.

It's build is very much like the pelikan 100 but there isn't a disk to keep the cork on the rod,

so one defititely needs some glue to secure the cork.

maybe schellak ?

Edited by dutch-courage
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I just found an old "Ero" piston fountain pen that needs a new cork.

It's build is very much like the pelikan 100 but there isn't a disk to keep the cork on the rod,

so one defititely needs some glue to secure the cork.

maybe schellak ?

Shellac is good because warming the parts will release the shellac if you ever need to take it apart again. You can also easily clean the old shellac with alcohol.

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Shellac is good because warming the parts will release the shellac if you ever need to take it apart again. You can also easily clean the old shellac with alcohol.

Thanks Whych !

I'll proceed using shellack then.

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To glue the cork use super glue, no need to use reversibles here.Don't glue that ending disc on piston in Pelikan 100.

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Don't glue that ending disc on piston in Pelikan 100.

My guess too :lol:

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The cork should be boiled in what the British call paraffin/mineral oil, and beeswax. Then smeared with silicon grease. That should make your cork good for 70 years or so.

 

Marshall and Lawrence claim that properly prepared cork is the smoothest, even doing some '50's MB's with cork than the plastic gasket they had.

 

Those who decide to go fast and easy and put in O rings will have to grease the pen very often.....and in other brands will ruin the pen quickly by yanking out the piston too often. The pistons of vintage pens were not designed to be yanked apart often like a Twsbi or Ahab.

 

Wow!

For this time, I couldn't more agree with you - I'm speachless!

C.

 

PS: Just have read again. I would not recommend to use mineral oil at all. Just paraffine is fine.

Edited by christof
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It is my understanding paraffin is what the Brits call mineral oil.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Interestingly there is parrafin (solid) and parrafin oil.I think silicone oils should work safely too.

It made best experiences with melted (solid) paraffine. I does not only seal the cork, it does fill tiny gaps and holes as well.

C.

Edited by christof
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