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Noodler's Brown


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Well, Noodler's perhaps doesn't need an introduction, as everyone knows that Mr. Nathan Tardiff creates this inky lineup at his secret inky factory. A very extensive line of inks it is. Some are basic, some are more interesting. This one falls into the more basic range. That is not a negative, as not everyone wants a super shady, sheeny ink with glitter. Sometimes you just want an ink that works without fuss and I think this ink fits that criteria.


This ink falls on the drier end of the wetness scale, but it is but no means "dry". I used a Lamy AL-Star (M-Steel) which is decently wet, but with this ink I got a bit finer line than I might have expected. I also tried the ink on some cheap Cambridge notebook paper which usually has serious problems with show through and bleed through, and while there was a good amount of show through, the bleed through was limited. It has reasonably short dry times on the papers used, and no problems with skips, start-up, etc., and the converter experienced no staining. There was a little bit of ink collecting on the top surface of the nib, but nothing major, and it wiped off easily.


The ink is water resistant, so another plus.


Papers used were MvL=Mohawk via Linen, Hij=Hammermill 28lb inkjet, TR=Tomoe River.


As is typical, the images all seem to show the ink as darker than in reality. It's a middle brown, and it never shows as black or even dark brown. It's much lighter than Sailor Kobe #3, perhaps a little lighter than Iroshizuku Tsukushi. It is definitely a cool brown.












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Actually not as red as many others in spite of the red in the formulation. So some of what you see may be the poor camera and image manipulation non-skillz of the end-user :blush:

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Thank you for this review. I may have ignored this as a possible Brown in my quest for the "Perfect Brown" when I could have been happy with this ink for a while!

I just tried Sheaffer's Skrip Brown & am enjoying it so perhaps (thanks to this review) I should have this as well. It has been a pleasure to discover the many existing inks during the recent Sailor "changes."

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Thank you, White Lotus. I have meant to try all the Noodler's "regular" inks - like Green, Red, Brown - because I have found that Purple, Blue and Black are some GREAT inks. I didn't expect this to water resistant.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

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Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 366 Inks in 2016

Check out inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

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Glad you enjoyed the review. Trying all the regular Noodler's inks is quite a challenge. Brown has become almost my favorite ink, even though I really like blue inks. And green has developed quite a following in my heart as well. Black and purple are lovable, that goes without saying.

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    • Texas42
      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
    • Splat
      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
    • amk
      That looks pretty good. You might want to add wood as a material (with its weakness of staining) and mention urushi. And under ergonomic considerations, the size of section (slender pens vs chunky pens), and shape of section, and 'disturbances' such as the Lamy 2000 'ears' and Pilot Capless clip getting in the way might be worth mentioning. Also possibly a general section on things you can do yourself with a bit of care, with a bit of practice, and things that are strictly "don't try this a
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