Jump to content

My First Pelikan - Have Some Questions


dragos.mocanu

Recommended Posts

Cork when shaped to fit, boiled in mineral oil & bees wax and then smeared with silicon grease is the smoothest of all.

Recommended in the great pen repair book by Marshal & Oldfield, over plastic gaskets.

 

I wouldn't worry about the problem you perceive in I don't see any problem at all. One gasket is working fine. It appears you cut the other gasket a bit short.

 

But if you yank your pen jet again apart....cork it. Should be good for 70 years.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 28
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • dragos.mocanu

    10

  • sargetalon

    4

  • Bo Bo Olson

    3

  • Erik Dalton

    3

Murky, you need to read Christof's remarks about this changing of seals: he does not approve and it is through <experience> (He wrote about this quite recently and I hope he'll chime in here). There may be reasons for sticking with cork (suitably impregnated with paraffin wax)

 

Lovely pen and I trust you will enjoy it. They are rugged enough instruments and this will last your lifetime, I imagine. I cannot see that there is much to be done about the Pelikan feeding her off-spring: just take care -- the ends don't usually get much wear-and-tear if you are as careful as you say.

 

PS: Murky, I see Bo Bo has chipped in -- listen to him: he's one of the valuable ones!

Edited by Christopher Godfrey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Murky, you need to read Christof's remarks about this changing of seals: he does not approve and it is through <experience> (He wrote about this quite recently and I hope he'll chime in here). There may be reasons for sticking with cork (suitably impregnated with paraffin wax)

 

Lovely pen and I trust you will enjoy it. They are rugged enough instruments and this will last your lifetime, I imagine. I cannot see that there is much to be done about the Pelikan feeding her off-spring: just take care -- the ends don't usually get much wear-and-tear if you are as careful as you say.

 

PS: Murky, I see Bo Bo has chipped in -- listen to him: he's one of the valuable ones!

 

Thank you all for the answers! One thing though, I don't think there's any way I could use a cork seal for my pen, since it is a post-WWII version, which had the synthetic seals (like the ones on the 140 or the 400)

 

http://i.imgur.com/080kAqp.jpg

Edited by Murky

"The truth may be puzzling. It may take some work to grapple with. It may be counterintuitive. It may contradict deeply held prejudices. It may not be consonant with what we desperately want to be true. But our preferences do not determine what's true..." (Carl Sagan)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They did not go away from cork because plastic was better, plastic was lots cheaper.

PM Fountainable, he could tell you more than I can.

They did not boil the cork in mineral oil and wax and silicon grease is new.

 

Better plastic gaskets came in in @1955...but cork if it can be done and I think with expertise it can be.

 

If you have a new old stock pen with cork...do soak it with water before inking. Just fill the pen with water and wait a day for the old cork to re-hydrate. It prevents the cork from becoming dirty with the first filling.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the pen originally came with an elastomer seal, it should probably be replaced with one. What I understand is that David Nishamura has both a regular sized seal (9mm) and a slightly oversized version (9.1-9.2). The oversized ones might be worth a try, especially if you can measure the diameter of the barrel with a caliper to determine the proper size of the seal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seal which is in the pen right now is a 9mm one from Mr. Nishimura...however, I don't understand why only the bottom half of the seal sits flush to the barrel, while the top one seems smaller in diameter.

"The truth may be puzzling. It may take some work to grapple with. It may be counterintuitive. It may contradict deeply held prejudices. It may not be consonant with what we desperately want to be true. But our preferences do not determine what's true..." (Carl Sagan)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Hello everyone,

 

It's been a very long time since I posted anything, and I wanted to revive this thread since I didn't really get an answer the last time around.

 

I have a gorgeous Pelikan 100N that I would like to write with, but there is a little caveat about the piston (see attached photo). Although the seal looks pretty flush, liquid still manages to somehow get behind it. This is one of Mr. Nishimura's seals, because my pen did not originally come with cork (it's one of the later versions).

 

I remember buying both black and green seals (the green being the slightly wider one), and I remember I couldn't manage to get the green one in (I didn't force it, lest the barrel could crack).

 

Is there anything I can do about this, or should I just use the pen and clean behind the piston from time to time (the piston unit can be disassembled quite easily).

 

Thank you!

IMG_0461.jpg

"The truth may be puzzling. It may take some work to grapple with. It may be counterintuitive. It may contradict deeply held prejudices. It may not be consonant with what we desperately want to be true. But our preferences do not determine what's true..." (Carl Sagan)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

@dragos.mocanu  I don't have an answer, but it is a lovely nib.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If you can trust your post office, send it to Fountainble/Francis Goossens in Belgium. Have it insured and registered.

 

Contact him, it is affordable. I've had 7-9 pens re-corked by him.

 

francis.goossens2@skynet.be

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33494
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26624
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...