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Experiment: Drawing Ink In Fountain Pen



lupulcelbun

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lupulcelbun

A couple of days I put Faber-Castell TG1 Drawing Ink in an Art Pen (1.5 nib) by rotring.
It seems to work just fine, for now. It writes divine.

How long does it take to clog?

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If you want a really obnoxious clog, take the cap off and let the ink dry in the pen. Maybe a day or two on the dash of a car with lots of sun. If you wash the pen often, it may never clog. Then again, maybe it will. But on its own time schedule.

 

Rotrings run a bit dry and do dry out in my pen box. I would use a good fountain pen ink and avoid the drawing ink. Not sure of the components in the TG1. Does the bottle say "Safe for fountain pens"? If not, wouldn't use.

 

Best of luck,

Yours,
Randal

From a person's actions, we may infer attitudes, beliefs, --- and values. We do not know these characteristics outright. The human dichotomies of trust and distrust, honor and duplicity, love and hate --- all depend on internal states we cannot directly experience. Isn't this what adds zest to our life?

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A couple of days I put Faber-Castell TG1 Drawing Ink in an Art Pen (1.5 nib) by rotring.

It seems to work just fine, for now. It writes divine.

 

How long does it take to clog?

 

I have no idea how long it will take..but do come back and let

us know....................Fascinating..ain't it.

And..Welcome aboard. lupulcelbun enjoy your time here..

 

Fred

Mmmmboy..that's good booze!

~ Reggie Van Gleason lll

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lupulcelbun

I wrote an international cartridge worth of ink with it and I am leaving it to dry.
It works like a charm.
There is was a little accumulation on the nib that went away with a wet paper towel.

About the ink, it says "encre de chine" so I guess that it is not fountain pen safe. There is no explicit warning in either direction.
"Faber-Castell drawing ink - light-fast, waterproof and quick-drying black ink. 23ml bottle. Suitable for Faber-Castell TG1-S drawing pens and all other steel-nib drawing pens. "
I put a written paper under a stream of water, the ink held until the paper dissolved, so it really is waterproof.

Rotring has a long standing relation with china-ink. The Art Pen dismantles easy and can be cleaned without fuss. That is why I was tempted to try and see what happens.
You will not see me using china-ink in any other fountain pens.

Edited by lupulcelbun
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OK, lupulcelbun,

 

Learned a few things from this thread. Have a few ArtPens with italic nibs, use them every once in a while. Didn't know they came apart so easily, will have to give mine a thorough cleaning. All three are at least twenty years old. Have cleaned them occasionally, often after letting the ink dry in them. Should work with them more, they write so well.

 

Enjoy,

Yours,
Randal

From a person's actions, we may infer attitudes, beliefs, --- and values. We do not know these characteristics outright. The human dichotomies of trust and distrust, honor and duplicity, love and hate --- all depend on internal states we cannot directly experience. Isn't this what adds zest to our life?

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I am afraid I can't say how long it takes but I cleaned out a clogged Faber-Castell technical pen with Rotrings cleaning fluid that had TG1 drawing ink in it the other day. It had been left idle with ink in it for years, so truly clogged and dried out. It didn't seem to take much to get it back into working order, first leaving the exterior submerged, then disassembling and again letting it soak while washing through it now and then. All in one day. Getting out all the cleaning fluid was probably the hardest. Ink game out grey initially when refilling it.

 

I dont think it is as bad as the kind of india ink you get in bottles for dip pens. But it is not like Platinum carbon black or Kiwa Guro, it has a very particular chemical smell. A sweet plastic like smell. Maybe paintlike even?

One thing that probably makes the Art Pen a great candidate for this as well is that the ones I have tried atleast have had very generous ink flow for untuned modern fountain pens straight out of the box.

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The Art Pen is truly low maintenance. One of mine must have had a rOtring cart in it for five years, but it cleaned up in no time.

A certified Inkophile

inkophile on tumblr,theinkophile on instagram,inkophile on twitter

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lupulcelbun

Yes, they come apart really easy.

It feel that they have a higher flow rate than the Waterman Expert, for example.

I wonder how easy it is to dismantle the said Expert. I am reluctant to put too much force on it...

 

BTW the experimental pen writes the same...

Edited by lupulcelbun
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India ink

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Redirected from Encre de chine)
"Indian ink" redirects here. For the Tom Stoppard play, see Indian Ink.
220px-Zeedijk.jpg
Example of India ink on paper, Zeedijk by Gustaaf Sorel, (1939)

India ink (or Indian ink in British English) is a simple black ink once widely used for writing and printing and now more commonly used for drawing, especially when inking comic books and comic strips. India ink is also used in medical applications.

 

Encre de Chine = India Ink = not fountain pen friendly

Edited by Runnin_Ute

Brad

"Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind" - Rudyard Kipling
"None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its cussedness; but we can try." - Mark Twain

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lupulcelbun

It seems that the Art Pen series works better with china ink than it does with regular ink.
I put a regular Staedtler ink cartridge in the larger nibs and is seems to leave too much ink, the 2.3mm nib drips ink.

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  • 3 months later...

After a while, it takes a little to get the pen going. Nothing major, just a little bit of pressing on it and shaking. Once we got it flowing, it wrote ok.

Encouraged by the results, we left it opened and filled with ink, nib down. As expected it clogged for good.

 

The good news is that all the residue can be mechanically removed quite easy from within the ArtPen. It washed away with the help of warm water, soap, a toothbrush and some patience. I had to pass a piece of paper between the nib's pincers to get all the residue out.

 

 

While it was drying, I bough an 0.5 Isograph from rOtring, isograph not radiograph. I wrote with it about 15ml of black Faber-Castel TG1 and about 10ml - almost half of bottle - of blue rOtring ink. It doesn't scratch, it flows nice. TG1 is thicker and from time to time it needs a shake to get the flow back to parameters. But otherwise, I can only hold against it the fact that it is a too short and too light.

 

Isograph is kind of short and very light and it is heavier towards the needle, however it feels fine in the hand. No need to press, not even a bit, it slides pleasantly, but it is miles apart - feeling wise - from Waterman's Expert and Pilot's Falcon (metal body) - both very heavy. It is very little fuss, refillable, feels worse that the 0.5 Tikky Graphic that is longer, but isograph writes way better than the Tikky Graphic.

 

Feeling wise + line left behind, I would rank them in this order:

Namiki Falcon SF with black Qink

Waterman Expert fine nib with black Qink tie with the 1.5 ArtPen feed with TG1

Isograph with TG1

Waterman Hemisphere medium nib with black Qink

rOtring Tikky Graphic 0.5

Isograph with rOtring ink

Hero 616 Regular green with Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue

1.5 ArtPen with Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue

Parker IM, fine nib - whatever ink

Edited by lupulcelbun
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I always advise " FOUNTAIN PEN INK ONLY, in fountain pens". Most non-fountain pen inks should function fine in you fountain pen, UNTIL THEY DON'T . It's your pen.

Auf freiem Grund mit freiem Volke stehn.
Zum Augenblicke dürft ich sagen:
Verweile doch, du bist so schön !

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