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Corrosion Inside Metal Cap (And Dent On Outside)


Linkdeath
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I'm in the very beginning of the restoration of my grandfather's Sheaffer Touchdown Tuckaway. My grandfather died 32 years ago, and wrote with the pen until the day he died. It's been sitting in my mom's desk drawer since then, fully loaded with a beautiful blue ink (which I shall identify someday). One thing I've noticed is that the inside of the cap has a very little bit of greenish corrosion inside of it. Does anyone have any recommendations of good ways of cleaning that up?

In addition, there's a small dent in the cap that doesn't affect the utility of the cap. It's about halfway up the cap, far enough to not affect the threads on the cap, but a ways from the end. Is it worth it trying to smooth the dent out? Or should I just leave well enough alone?

Mainly, though, I'd like some suggestions about the corrosion!

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You can clean out the cap with a scratch pad, or just leave that alone - it won't hurt anything. If you do clean, don't try to make it perfectly clean because you may remove enough material from the threads that the cap will jump threads when screwed on.

 

If you don't have experience and the tools, I would leave the dent alone. It's tough to do with out pulling the inner cap and without a mandrel to back it up.

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Thanks for both suggestions. I'll see what I can do about just wiping down the corrosion and the dent I'll leave in place, since it was likely put there by my grandfather anyway...

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So many of my Sheaffer's have the yucky greenish muck on the inside of the cap. I hate that. I just bunch up a tissue and twist it inside but I wish there was a more thorough way to clean the inside of the cap. I am not generally a fussy person but that muck irritates me.

Looking for a cap for a Sheaffer Touchdown Sentinel Deluxe Fat version

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    • A Smug Dill
      @Texas42 Thank you. I myself have recently had the experience of cleaning out a Wing Sung 699, in which the iron-gall ink has been sitting for six months. No damage to the metal piston rod (whereas, in a Wing Sung 3013 vacuum-filler, it would have been corroded, turned green, and contaminated the ink in mere weeks), but there was a ring of colour at the far end of the barrel that wouldn't budge, and I found it impossible to unscrew the filling mechanism to clean the interior wall of the ink rese
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      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
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      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
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      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
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      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
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