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Working On A Homemade Prussian Blue Ink, Need To Speed Dry Time.


Flaxmoore

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The initial ink was very dry, so I thought to add a small amount (1 drop in 2 ounces) of dish liquid. I accidentally dropped in two- too much. It's now wet, and a beautiful shade, but never fully dries- likely from the soap. How do I counter this?

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A fresh batch with two microscopic drops is somewhat better, cut with water a little better still. I may keep diluting to find the right ratio.

Physician- signing your scripts with Skrips!


I'm so tough I vacation in Detroit.

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:W2FPN:

 

Hi,

 

We have an Inky TOD for improving ink flow @ https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/268124-inky-t-o-d-improving-ink-flow-make-a-dry-writing-ink-wetter-or-help-ignition-problems/?p=3016908

 

As for dry times, that is largely dependent on the inks in your recipe, and the paper. When I did some work with diluted inks, I found dilution wasn't a reliable / predictable means to shorten dry times. (Results posted in the Ink Comparisons Forum.) However, as dilution is a no/low-cost option, give it a fair go - perhaps you'll get lucky.

 

That said, the Noodler's Bernenke series inks (Blue, Black & Q'ternity) have the shortest dry times I've seen. So if reasonable flow and short dry times are key performance characteristics, you may find those inks are a good foundation on which to base your recipe.

 

Also, its best to evaluate ink flow from a clean fully charged fountain pen. Sampling with well chosen dip pens can give a good approximation, but one must engage the entire ink path of an FP to make a final determination. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/246789-a-better-dip-nib/

 

Oh, if you used an FP with the ink with too much detergent, please give it a thorough flush or the residue will skew the results of subsequent sampling.

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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Still too wet with water added. Guess I'll make a fresh batch.

Physician- signing your scripts with Skrips!


I'm so tough I vacation in Detroit.

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:W2FPN:

 

Hi, So if reasonable flow and short dry times are key performance characteristics, you may find those inks are a good foundation on which to base your recipe.[/font]

 

Also, its best to evaluate ink flow from a clean fully charged fountain pen. Sampling with well chosen dip pens can give a good approximation, but one must engage the entire ink path of an FP to make a final determination. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/246789-a-better-dip-nib/

 

Oh, if you used an FP with the ink with too much detergent, please give it a thorough flush or the residue will skew the results of subsequent sampling.

 

Bye,

S1

My recipe, such as it is, is simply a reduction of bluing solution so I can get a ferrocyanate ink. Classic color. Edited by Flaxmoore

Physician- signing your scripts with Skrips!


I'm so tough I vacation in Detroit.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Your problem is that you are using detergent straight from the bottle. You really only need tiny amounts of it.

Make a 1% solution of dish washing liquid and add one drop of that at a time.

fpn_1412827311__pg_d_104def64.gif




“Them as can do has to do for them as can’t.


And someone has to speak up for them as has no voices.”


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  • 3 months later...

The initial ink was very dry, so I thought to add a small amount (1 drop in 2 ounces) of dish liquid. I accidentally dropped in two- too much. It's now wet, and a beautiful shade, but never fully dries- likely from the soap. How do I counter this?

 

I believe alcohol speeds up drying time; however, too much can cause feathering.

Find my homemade ink recipes on my Flickr page here.

 

"I don't wait for inspiration; inspiration waits for me." --Akiane Kramarik

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You don't.

 

I would advise you to stop and listen for a moment because you're running blind.

 

Surfactants are not be used lightly... actually they are but in the other meaning of the word.

 

First off dish soap liquid is an unknown factor, you don't know what surfactant you have nor its concentration, so you don't know how much to add nor how much you're actually adding. Second there are lot of additives like humectants which may cause odd and unforeseen behavior, the never drying of the ink is most likely due to the added glycerin or propylene glycol. Since it's not seeping right trough the page faster than Parker 51 it means that the surfactant is probably not strong or at least not in a strong enough concentration.

 

Best advice I can give you is to search for pure surfactants and look out for its specific CMC (critical miscelle concentration, the point where the surface tension bottoms out no matter how much more you add) then add accordingly. It may influence on solubility of dyes or in suspension of pigment, but I haven't tested that yet.

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