Jump to content

ADEMiller

Recommended Posts

Hello all! I know this has been answered on a few other threads, but I could use some more help.

So I bought a Sheaffer vac-fil with a triumph nib and was wondering the best way to go about making it write. The pen is in semi working order, but the piston hasn't been greased in about 50, so it's stiff (don't want to force it) From what I have read, it sounds like the nib unit needs to be removed, so how is the best way to do this (without a ton of fancy equipment)? Also what is all this about "packing material" what is it? does it need to be replaced? Thanks, Alexander

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • ADEMiller

    5

  • jar

    4

  • kirchh

    1

  • Ron Z

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

This is not a good candidate for DIY restoration. The best move is to send the pen to one of the half dozen or so folk that really do those well. RonZ, Sherrell Tyree. Daniel Kirchheimer, Berton Heiserman or one of the other experienced Sheaffer Vacfil experts.

 

My Website

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What other threads have answered your question?

 

--Daniel

"The greatest mental derangement is to believe things because we want them to be true, not because we observe that they are in effect." --Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet

Daniel Kirchheimer
Specialty Pen Restoration
Authorized Sheaffer/Parker/Waterman Vintage Repair Center
Purveyor of the iCroScope digital loupe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No one post has completely answered it, I just have a very vague idea after reading through some threads and websites on pen repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What other threads have answered your question?

 

--Daniel

What's a ballpark estimate for what you would charge to fix the filling mechanism?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I already have about $40 into the pen, so wouldn't a repair put it over its actual value?

 

Only you can make that decision but my recommendation is to send it to them what know what they are doing. It will likely cost another $25.00-35.00 plus shipping costs.

 

My Website

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Only you can make that decision but my recommendation is to send it to them what know what they are doing. It will likely cost another $25.00-35.00 plus shipping costs.

I would only want the filling system fixed...I quite enjoy the patina that has developed throughout the pen... Would the cost still be the same without a full restoration?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would only want the filling system fixed...I quite enjoy the patina that has developed throughout the pen... Would the cost still be the same without a full restoration?

Yup, just be sure to communicate well with the restorer.

 

My Website

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most charge in the neighborhood of $40-$45 plus shipping to restore these. Polishing for me is "added value" and not polishing does not change the final price at all. Depending on the pen, I rarely sell a plunger filler for less than $125 restored. Some go for much more than that depending on the pen and the color. The basic repair though more advanced than a sac replacement, it is not difficult to do, but has many pitfalls that can trip you up or turn a simple repair into something more difficult. Having the proper tools and the experience is in this case, worth quite a bit more than what is charged.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most charge in the neighborhood of $40-$45 plus shipping to restore these. Polishing for me is "added value" and not polishing does not change the final price at all. Depending on the pen, I rarely sell a plunger filler for less than $125 restored. Some go for much more than that depending on the pen and the color. The basic repair though more advanced than a sac replacement, it is not difficult to do, but has many pitfalls that can trip you up or turn a simple repair into something more difficult. Having the proper tools and the experience is in this case, worth quite a bit more than what is charged.

 

 

Just to elaborate. The pricing difference between what Ron posts and what I posted are likely simply reflecting the fact that I have not had to get one of my Sheaffer Vacfil pens repaired in over a decade at least. Regardless, even if it doubles your initial investment you will have a pen that writes well, holds a ton of ink, is easy to maintain and will likely not need to be redone during your lifetime.

 

My Website

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the nib is good, then you will have a working Sheaffer vac-fill (or "plunger filler") for about $90, including shipping plus repair plus the initial $40. You will have a better pen than almost any new pen you could find today. (I have three of these pens: one with a decent nib and two without tipping. Eventually, I'll probably have the good one restored. The other two? I don't know.)

Washington Nationals 2019: the fight for .500; "stay in the fight"; WON the fight

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33494
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26624
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...