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ADEMiller
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Hello all! I know this has been answered on a few other threads, but I could use some more help.

So I bought a Sheaffer vac-fil with a triumph nib and was wondering the best way to go about making it write. The pen is in semi working order, but the piston hasn't been greased in about 50, so it's stiff (don't want to force it) From what I have read, it sounds like the nib unit needs to be removed, so how is the best way to do this (without a ton of fancy equipment)? Also what is all this about "packing material" what is it? does it need to be replaced? Thanks, Alexander

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This is not a good candidate for DIY restoration. The best move is to send the pen to one of the half dozen or so folk that really do those well. RonZ, Sherrell Tyree. Daniel Kirchheimer, Berton Heiserman or one of the other experienced Sheaffer Vacfil experts.

 

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What other threads have answered your question?

 

--Daniel

"The greatest mental derangement is to believe things because we want them to be true, not because we observe that they are in effect." --Jacques-Bénigne Bossuet

Daniel Kirchheimer
Specialty Pen Restoration
Authorized Sheaffer/Parker/Waterman Vintage Repair Center
Purveyor of the iCroScope digital loupe

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No one post has completely answered it, I just have a very vague idea after reading through some threads and websites on pen repair.

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What other threads have answered your question?

 

--Daniel

What's a ballpark estimate for what you would charge to fix the filling mechanism?

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I already have about $40 into the pen, so wouldn't a repair put it over its actual value?

 

Only you can make that decision but my recommendation is to send it to them what know what they are doing. It will likely cost another $25.00-35.00 plus shipping costs.

 

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Only you can make that decision but my recommendation is to send it to them what know what they are doing. It will likely cost another $25.00-35.00 plus shipping costs.

I would only want the filling system fixed...I quite enjoy the patina that has developed throughout the pen... Would the cost still be the same without a full restoration?

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I would only want the filling system fixed...I quite enjoy the patina that has developed throughout the pen... Would the cost still be the same without a full restoration?

Yup, just be sure to communicate well with the restorer.

 

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Most charge in the neighborhood of $40-$45 plus shipping to restore these. Polishing for me is "added value" and not polishing does not change the final price at all. Depending on the pen, I rarely sell a plunger filler for less than $125 restored. Some go for much more than that depending on the pen and the color. The basic repair though more advanced than a sac replacement, it is not difficult to do, but has many pitfalls that can trip you up or turn a simple repair into something more difficult. Having the proper tools and the experience is in this case, worth quite a bit more than what is charged.

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Most charge in the neighborhood of $40-$45 plus shipping to restore these. Polishing for me is "added value" and not polishing does not change the final price at all. Depending on the pen, I rarely sell a plunger filler for less than $125 restored. Some go for much more than that depending on the pen and the color. The basic repair though more advanced than a sac replacement, it is not difficult to do, but has many pitfalls that can trip you up or turn a simple repair into something more difficult. Having the proper tools and the experience is in this case, worth quite a bit more than what is charged.

 

 

Just to elaborate. The pricing difference between what Ron posts and what I posted are likely simply reflecting the fact that I have not had to get one of my Sheaffer Vacfil pens repaired in over a decade at least. Regardless, even if it doubles your initial investment you will have a pen that writes well, holds a ton of ink, is easy to maintain and will likely not need to be redone during your lifetime.

 

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If the nib is good, then you will have a working Sheaffer vac-fill (or "plunger filler") for about $90, including shipping plus repair plus the initial $40. You will have a better pen than almost any new pen you could find today. (I have three of these pens: one with a decent nib and two without tipping. Eventually, I'll probably have the good one restored. The other two? I don't know.)

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      @Texas42 Thank you. I myself have recently had the experience of cleaning out a Wing Sung 699, in which the iron-gall ink has been sitting for six months. No damage to the metal piston rod (whereas, in a Wing Sung 3013 vacuum-filler, it would have been corroded, turned green, and contaminated the ink in mere weeks), but there was a ring of colour at the far end of the barrel that wouldn't budge, and I found it impossible to unscrew the filling mechanism to clean the interior wall of the ink rese
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      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
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      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
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      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
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      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
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