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Same Ink For Same Pen?



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Not sure if this should go in Inky Thoughts or here, so apologies in advance if I made the Wrong Choice :)

 

I was having a flushing and filling session yesterday, and noticed that one pen and ink combination was virtually unflushable:

 

Monteverde Impressa, with Iroshizuku momiji( which disappointed me by being much pinker than I expected)

 

After about half an hour of repeated flushing with just water, it - the converter - was still very very pink. I gave up after that, and will have another try later, but it got me wondering.....are some inks just so "stainy"(not the correct word, I know, but it conveys the meaning, I think) that you have to have a dedicated pen for them?

 

And does anyone do that in any case - keep the pairing if same pen with same ink?

Alex

"As many nights endure Without a moon or star So will we endure When one is gone and far "Leonard Cohen, of blessed memory(21/09/1934-7/11/2016)

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Isn't that the second reason BSB tends to get its own pen?

 

But one ink for each pen is more or less my preference. Right now I'm exploring some new inks, so I'm putting different inks into my pens. But my intent is that I go back to one ink per pen.

Edited by Arkanabar
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Thank you, Arkanabar....it seems very sensible to me. I have to admit ignorance/slow gathering my wits this morning: what's BSB?

 

Alex

"As many nights endure Without a moon or star So will we endure When one is gone and far "Leonard Cohen, of blessed memory(21/09/1934-7/11/2016)

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Thank you, Arkanabar....it seems very sensible to me. I have to admit ignorance/slow gathering my wits this morning: what's BSB?

 

Alex

 

BSB is Baystate Blue (Noodlers). BSB has a strong reputation for staining.

 

Often, but not always) red or reddish inks leave stains. Purple has some red in it. Some blues contain some red. Red tends to be more prone to staining, although it doesn't always stain.

Edited by Blue_Moon

Franklin-Christoph, Italix, and Pilot pens are the best!
Iroshizuku, Diamine, and Waterman inks are my favorites!

Apica, Rhodia, and Clairefontaine make great paper!

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Thank you, Blue Moon. I'm very much in the beginning and learning....and aside from the reason of staining, it does make a lot of sense to have dedicated ink/pen couples.

 

And a few cheapies for experiments, of course.... ;)

Alex

"As many nights endure Without a moon or star So will we endure When one is gone and far "Leonard Cohen, of blessed memory(21/09/1934-7/11/2016)

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one ink, one pen for me... on rare ocations I switch the ink on one of my pens. I do have more than one pen per ink.

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Hi,

 

Some stains can be removed with typical pen cleaning chemistry, others cannot. It depends on the ink and the type of plastic/celluloid etc that is stained.

 

For example, I found that Visconti Purple left a temporary stain on a converter, which was removed with a very weak ammonia solution. At the other extreme there are Parker pens from the 1950s with aerometric converters made of Pliglass which are stained opaque Black, but do not tint an Orange ink.

 

When I encounter an ink+pen combo that is tedious to clean with plain water, I'll often revert to chemistry stronger than water to do the necessary.

 

Also, before charging a hard-to-clean pen or a pen with ye olde plumbing, I give consideration to the clean-up overhead: Will it breach my Tedium Tolerance? Am I comfortable exposing the pen to chemicals stronger than ink and water?

 

One thing to consider is if a stain is not cleaned-up, will that stain attract other inky residue and eventually build-up to form what I loosely call 'plating'? That plating can come away when exposed to a 'cleaning' ink, so release chunky bits, which may clog the feed channel.

 

My approach to pen maintenance is to thoroughly cleanse a pen after use, so I can use any ink in it whenever I choose.

 

I reckon the only time I would dedicate a pen to an ink is if I was using the pen on a pretty much constant basis, so it would never dry-out (always rinsing the nib+feed prior to charging, then being filled and flushed with fresh ink), and never be left partially cleansed - leaving inky residue to dry-out in the pen.

- Though one might get away with leaving inky residue in a pen if one is using some of the benign inks whose inky residue will dissolve when the pen is filled with that self-same ink again, but that requires some empirical hands-on to determine if that's a wise thing to do. e.g. I could likely get away with leaving a residue of Lamy Blue in a pen, but not Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue; and definitely not a nano particle ink, nor a bulletproof ink, nor a 'permanent' ink, nor an iron-gall ink.

 

As I've mentioned previously, pen design has a fair bit of headroom, so pens will continue to function with a load of inky residue, but that likely increases until the pen has problems, requiring a 'full-on' cleansing. I'd rather not be one to send a clogged pen to the esteemed Ron Zorn, and cause that gentleman to mutter 'Idiot'.

 

Bye,

S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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BSB has stained every pen I every put it in. It is now restricted to a Blue Ahab that is a darker blue than it was before I dedicated it to BSB.

One part ammonia to 9 parts water makes a dandy pen cleaning solution when all else fails. A small drop of Ivory liquid to 100 mL of the above can help as well. With converters I use a blunt tip syringe to thoroughly flush the converter and an ear syringe to flush the nib/feed assembly. Water first on all flushes, ammonia water only if needed. Rapido-eze pen cleaner and/or an ultrasonic cleaner may be necessary for stubborn stains.

 

If your converter is heavily stained from something like Baystate or a couple of the inks I beta tested consider using one of these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/TINY-BRUSHES_47893

 

The smallest of the brushes will fit in some converters and they are also good for cleaning feed channels. Caution: Do not browse the product descriptions on this website while consuming beverages. It will peg your humor meter.

Dave Campbell
Science Teacher and Pen Addict
Every day is a chance to reduce my level of ignorance.

fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pi

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Bo Bo Olson

As 'noobie' one of the first things I leaned (reading) was red inks stain ink windows. Purple too but not quite as much.

So far haven't noticed much staining with Purple but I tend to use it once and change inks in a pen.

 

 

Then there is the supersaturated inks in either shade vs lighter 'pastel' shading inks that might not stain as much.....there I'm ignorant in defiantly don't buy red inks.

The only red ink I have is MB Collodi that was no where near a brown ink or even red-brown ink I thought when I bought it.

I do have 6-8 purple inks, some may be more saturated than others like DA Aubergine vs old C d'A Storm.

I am glad that an ammonia is helpful vs purple or Violette.

 

I don't have BSB...don't know if I have a cheap enough pen to use it in. And in I'm more into shading inks, can't see my self buying Supersaturated BSB....It's sort of monotone....bright monotone....but still monotone.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

German vintage '50-70 semi-flex stubs and those in oblique give the real thing in On Demand line variation. Modern Oblique is a waste of money for a shadow of line variation. Being too lazy to Hunt for affordable vintage oblique pens, lets you 'hunt' for line variation instead of having it.

RIP...200's once great nib, now a double ball.:crybaby::wallbash:

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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inkstainedruth

BSB has stained every pen I every put it in. It is now restricted to a Blue Ahab that is a darker blue than it was before I dedicated it to BSB.

One part ammonia to 9 parts water makes a dandy pen cleaning solution when all else fails. A small drop of Ivory liquid to 100 mL of the above can help as well. With converters I use a blunt tip syringe to thoroughly flush the converter and an ear syringe to flush the nib/feed assembly. Water first on all flushes, ammonia water only if needed. Rapido-eze pen cleaner and/or an ultrasonic cleaner may be necessary for stubborn stains.

 

If your converter is heavily stained from something like Baystate or a couple of the inks I beta tested consider using one of these:

http://www.sciplus.com/p/TINY-BRUSHES_47893

 

The smallest of the brushes will fit in some converters and they are also good for cleaning feed channels. Caution: Do not browse the product descriptions on this website while consuming beverages. It will peg your humor meter.

Ooh, thanks for the link! I often clean out around the openings of converters with an old toothbrush, but I've had some inks stain the very bottom on the inside of the ink chamber because of the interior spring or slide falling down when I'm draining the converter onto paper toweling after cleaning (and those spring things just seem to collect a lot of color that doesn't come out even when soaking in ammonia solution.

I have some of the small round brushes that come from Sur le Table but only the really little one is good for the insides of barrels (and then not on the smallest diameter pens -- the other brushes are too large.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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Also for some of us forgetful types (me). Blue pen = blue ink, red pen = red ink, green pen = green ink.

Changing different inks in the same pen would just confuse me. Luckily my journal does not care what color ink I use.

 

For black and flighter finish, I sometimes have to think what ink I put in them, as they are the neutral colors, so it could be any ink.

 

So far, I have luckily not run into a staining ink. (fingers crossed)

Although I have a couple of the opaque Parker 51 aerometrics.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Also for some of us forgetful types (me). Blue pen = blue ink, red pen = red ink, green pen = green ink.

Changing different inks in the same pen would just confuse me. Luckily my journal does not care what color ink I use.

 

For black and flighter finish, I sometimes have to think what ink I put in them, as they are the neutral colors, so it could be any ink.

 

So far, I have luckily not run into a staining ink. (fingers crossed)

Although I have a couple of the opaque Parker 51 aerometrics.

 

I try to follow the blue pen, blue ink model. I also try to use ink from the same company, same country, or at least the same continent in a given pen.

"One can not waste time worrying about small minds . . . If we were normal, we'd still be using free ball point pens." —Bo Bo Olson "I already own more ink than a rational person can use in a lifetime." —Waski_the_Squirrel

I'm still trying to figure out how to list all my pens down here.

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Lou Erickson

I wind up doing ink matching the pen, cause it feels odd to pull out a blue pen and get green lines. But I don't always do that. Sometimes I just giggle, and write shocking blue lines with an orange pen. (BSB in an Ahab, heh.)

 

I don't at all do the relating the points of origin. I currently have Italian ink in a Japanese pen (Aurora Black in a Pilot Myu 701) and Japanese ink in an American pen (Iroshizuku Su-ryo in a Parker 180 Flighter). Because ink goes in pens!

 

Oddly, all the pens I carry this week are stainless. I even dug out the flighter pencil. :)

--

Lou Erickson - Handwritten Blog Posts

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I do the continent of origin (Waterman and Diamine in all European pens), and sometimes the same company (only Iroshizuku goes in my Pilots). However, I'm flexible with American pens. I'll use everything I have in my Franklin-Christophs.

 

I do tend toward the same color pen and ink as well. However, many of my pens are black, and I don't care for black ink, so anything goes in them.

Franklin-Christoph, Italix, and Pilot pens are the best!
Iroshizuku, Diamine, and Waterman inks are my favorites!

Apica, Rhodia, and Clairefontaine make great paper!

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