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Vintage 120 Question


Sailor Kenshin

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A friend gave me a vintage 120 years ago, and I'm starting to use it more often.

 

I do not know the era, possibly 1960s...but can the nib unit in these older 120 pens screw out (as with a TWSBI) in order to make cleaning easier? It doesn't seem to 'want' to unscrew, and I don't want to force it.

 

Thanks!

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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Have you tried soaking the section? Or maybe doing a flush thru it with diluted ammonia? (or try putting the nib/feed/section portion into an ultrasonic cleaner with the rest of the pen held out).

Edited by KBeezie
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There were two runs of 120's, 1955-65 and 1973-77, and though they have the same name they are structurally different pens. Regardless of which 120 it is, both have nibs that are removable by unscrewing. Old ink can act like cement. I agree with KBeezie that you should soak the nib and section in water for a prolonged period as well as flush the pen. You want to hold the nib in your hand and turn the barrel. Gentle, persistent force. If it doesn't break free, repeat the soaking. It will come out eventually. A very small application of silicone grease to the threads of the collar prior to reassembly can help prevent this from recurring in the future. Good luck with it.

 

Here is a link to a tutorial for your reference: http://wp.me/p4XMw3-fI

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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There were two runs of 120's, 1955-65 and 1973-77, and though they have the same name they are structurally different pens. Regardless of which 120 it is, both have nibs that are removable by unscrewing. Old ink can act like cement. I agree with KBeezie that you should soak the nib and section in water for a prolonged period as well as flush the pen. You want to hold the nib in your hand and turn the barrel. Gentle, persistent force. If it doesn't break free, repeat the soaking. It will come out eventually. A very small application of silicone grease to the threads of the collar prior to reassembly can help prevent this from recurring in the future. Good luck with it.

 

Here is a link to a tutorial for your reference: http://wp.me/p4XMw3-fI

While not a Pelikan, I once had to soak a pen for 5 days while removing pieces in increment each day or two. Just a matter of patience. Alternating with an ammonia dilution can help a bit too, I just wouldn't leave the section in diluted ammonia for anymore than a few hours at a time as I know some plastics can be discolored and you usually shouldn't require more than that for ammonia to do the trick (Assuming it can reach the ink/etc, which is where an ultrasonic cleaner can come in handy).

 

PS: Just to clarify, I would only soak the section end, not the whole pen.

Edited by KBeezie
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A friend gave me a vintage 120 years ago, and I'm starting to use it more often.

 

 

 

He gave it to you 120 years ago? Just how old are you? :)

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There were two runs of 120's, 1955-65 and 1973-77, and though they have the same name they are structurally different pens. Regardless of which 120 it is, both have nibs that are removable by unscrewing. Old ink can act like cement. I agree with KBeezie that you should soak the nib and section in water for a prolonged period as well as flush the pen. You want to hold the nib in your hand and turn the barrel. Gentle, persistent force. If it doesn't break free, repeat the soaking. It will come out eventually. A very small application of silicone grease to the threads of the collar prior to reassembly can help prevent this from recurring in the future. Good luck with it.

 

Here is a link to a tutorial for your reference: http://wp.me/p4XMw3-fI

Thanks! Excellent!

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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There were two runs of 120's, 1955-65 and 1973-77, and though they have the same name they are structurally different pens. Regardless of which 120 it is, both have nibs that are removable by unscrewing. Old ink can act like cement. I agree with KBeezie that you should soak the nib and section in water for a prolonged period as well as flush the pen. You want to hold the nib in your hand and turn the barrel. Gentle, persistent force. If it doesn't break free, repeat the soaking. It will come out eventually. A very small application of silicone grease to the threads of the collar prior to reassembly can help prevent this from recurring in the future. Good luck with it.

 

Here is a link to a tutorial for your reference: http://wp.me/p4XMw3-fI

Like with the 140 and 400, there are also early 120's that have a push fit nib.

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It will come out.

 

I have one which I purchased back in the 70's. Used it for years then it went in a shoe box in storage for years. Then as I was strolling down nostalgia lane I came upon this trusty old fried. I inked it up and instantly recalled why I had put it way: It was leaking ink out the back at the interface of the turning knob and the barrel.

 

Refusing to give up on my old fiend, I sent it off to a fellow who does nib retipping and some pen repair. He sent it back saying that the nib and other parts were 'welded' together and the pen could not be repaired. I made a decision; rather than toss it I would hang onto this memento from a long a gone and exciting chapter of my life.

 

As time went by, I got more interested in FP's and in passing mentioned to Rick Propas my dilemma with this onld pen. He said to send it along. He returned it to me in perfect working order, and the nib now screws in and out as it should. The pen is now in rotation and ready to start back in on that dusty old draft of the great American novel which it was lying next to all those years.

 

If you start to get a little impatient and feel than that maybe you just aren't applying enough force to loosen that nib, remember this: It took 20 years for it to get good and stuck. What difference will it make if you give it a few more days, (A week?) to loosen up? Or, should you risk breaking it now and never having that same old pen to take you down the road for another 20 tears.

 

Luck to you and I am anxious to see a writing sample from your new/old pen.

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Like with the 140 and 400, there are also early 120's that have a push fit nib.

Is there a way to tell the age of a 120?

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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Presumably, from the original receipt or the serial number, if there is one, would be a clue. Then again, many don't have a serial number.

 

It's a 120 and nothing will shrink, so submerse the whole pen in water and work the piston under water, Leave to soak, work piston, change water as needed.

A few cycles in a cleaner if you have it.

In a day or so, when the water runs clear, try the nib again. Easiest to use a towel to grip the nib, wiggle a bit and try again.

If it doesn't move, soak some more. Don't rush and don't try to force it.

If it screws in, it will come out.

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Is there a way to tell the age of a 120?

 

You can at least narrow down whether or not it's 50/60's vintage or 70's vintage. Can you throw up a picture?

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Yes, I can. A very BAD phone picture. I can't get a close-up of the underside, but would its shape/fins tell me anything about whether the nib is pull-out or screw-in?

 

http://extras.ourpatioparty.com/files/9214/1918/2240/Pelikan-1800p.jpg

My latest ebook.   And not just for Halloween!
 

My other pen is a Montblanc.

 

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Looks to be the vintage model made from 1955-1965. Just eyeballing it, the cap band and clip are the biggest give away.

 

post-95756-0-20909200-1419183560_thumb.jpg

Edited by sargetalon

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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Like with the 140 and 400, there are also early 120's that have a push fit nib.

 

Are you sure on this point Whych? I agree that the 400, M400, and M481 have been well documented to have friction fitted nibs in their very early run models. I have even heard of some 400NN's having a friction fit feed. That's said, I have never heard of a 140 let alone a 120 with a friction fit nib. Most of the reports that I've seen have been erroneous because of a cracked collar.

 

If you have a source or, better yet, photos of a true friction fitted 120 or 140 nib and feed, I'd love to see them. Thanks!

PELIKAN - Too many birds in the flock to count. My pen chest has proven to be a most fertile breeding ground.

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THE PELIKAN'S PERCH - A growing reference site for all things Pelikan

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I have a old 120 that still has all it's gold plating.

 

It had remained in my rotation a long time.

For a some four years I thought that nib = to my '90's M400, until I was forced to push the M400's nib because of some '90's Celebry pens.

 

Still all in all a good springy nib....it matches some 200's nibs....not all ... 1/4th of the 200's nibs I've had pass through my hands in trans-mailing them.

Most of the 200's nibs do match my '90's M400 and Celebry nibs.

 

The school kids in the '50-60's had it made, the Pelikan 120, the Geha School pen and for others a 3xx MB.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Are you sure on this point Whych? I agree that the 400, M400, and M481 have been well documented to have friction fitted nibs in their very early run models. I have even heard of some 400NN's having a friction fit feed. That's said, I have never heard of a 140 let alone a 120 with a friction fit nib. Most of the reports that I've seen have been erroneous because of a cracked collar.

 

If you have a source or, better yet, photos of a true friction fitted 120 or 140 nib and feed, I'd love to see them. Thanks!

I'll have to pull the nibs again to show you, but basically the pens are identical to any other 120 or 140 - until you try to unscrew the nib.

The feeds are the same as those on the normal screw in nibs.

I should imagine they were manufactured about the same time as they did the 400 with push fit nibs.

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I bought a Pelikan 120 student pen (original 50s release) many many moons ago. I still have it but it's no longer the same pen. The last time I dropped it, the cap multiplied in several pieces. I had it replaced with a 140 cap bought from eBay. I have also replaced the the original nib with an M150 gold plated broad nib. I still use the pen as one of my everyday carry. Love this pen. What model do I have now?

Edited by BeRa

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