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Frankenpen, Married Or Balance White Dot Of Some Type?


TXKat
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Okay, I'm at a loss and my newbie inexperience with Sheaffer pens is showing! I need help from all of you, please.

 

My sleuthing has not gotten me very far so I'm turning to the experts here to determine if my free, 'thank you' pen is correct or a couple of parts cobbled together.

 

 

Bought a great little Waterman Vest pen off the bay and when it arrived, there was a BONUS pen added as a thank you. :D How cool is that!

Here is where it gets interesting...she thought, and I am almost agreeing, that the pen looks married. Either that or the barrel is ambered or stained. I've not done anything to/with it as it's a vacuum filler and I'm clueless on these. I'm pretty clueless on Sheaffers as my stuff is normally the most obscure, cheapest stuff ever made for a one time school class, sold at a drug store and found in the junk drawer!!!

Here is the pen I'm wondering about. I know it's a vacuum filler, i know it's Sheaffer White Dot and I know it's a Lifetime nib with a number...but...

...do top and bottom match correctly? I have since discovered it IS ambered and you can see through it when held to the light.

Is the nib correct?

Is this a Balance or something else.

Timeframe for age (I think it's a '35 based soley on the hump clip shown. (Maybe someone changed the clip???)

Worth restoring?

I am coming to the experts as I R Not 1! ;) Any help is appreciated!! Thank you!! (Update: The pen inks from what I can tell, well, it's still writing, but I don't see ink IN it. Hmmmm.)

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So, what's your point?

(Mine is a flexible F.)

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Yes to ambering and likely needing to be resacked. Unable to determine nib condition due pictures not showing it fully. If nib in good condition would likely be a good daily writer. Would need to see nib from straight on, and from above and below at 45 degree angle to check alignment and Irridium condition. Definitely correct, simply worn and discolored.

Edited by Parker51
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This one is a plunger filler (from the blind cap, long rod) and the nib slightly turns up, but only slight tipping material that I can see.

 

Will take better photos. Can the ambering be polished/cleaned in the inside if I have someone redo the seal or is it even worth spending the money on it?? I know nothing about these pens. :D

 

Is this a '35??

So, what's your point?

(Mine is a flexible F.)

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Here are photos of the nib. (I think this is what was asked for...)

 

I may not have tried loading this properly, so may try again to see if it holds ink. When testing with water, it makes the water bubble, so no ink inside tells me I goofed up, lol. Yikes! :wallbash:

 

Thanks all for the info so far. Much appreciated. :D The blurb showing on the top of the nib is my ink, lol. I should have run a paper towel across to make it look pristine as I see it.

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Edited by TXKat

So, what's your point?

(Mine is a flexible F.)

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Tines look straight, slot looks straight as well, if it is a fine nib, there may well be enough iridium to write well. I suggest a soak in distilled, iodized or well filtered tap water overnight, before dipping to see how well it writes. Sorry about the comment regarding a sack, just reread your posts, and you mentioned the vacuum filler. If it bubbles when you depress the rod, then you are expelling air, the pen may have intact seals. Now, does the rod bounce back after depressing it part way down? If it does you are very lucky, as I have never found one in the wild with fully intact seals, and that is how you tell if the seals are intact, if you get compression of the air in the barrel. The other question, is it worth getting a Sheaffer Lifetime Balance Fountain Pen brought back to full use? Maybe. Once it is cleaned, try dipping and writing with it. If it writes well, smoothly and without problems, and you like the line, then yes, chose a reputable repair person, and send it off for repair and rejuvenation. But if the nib is toast, then likely no, but, it may be valuable as a donor pen. Condition makes a big difference in regard to this pen, and the same pen in excellent condition may sell for hundreds more than one in user grade, which honestly may be under a $100, depending on the degree of brassing, nib condition and discoloration.

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All good info! The rod does not spring back, so I'm guessing a seal is bad. The nib writes great! It's a XF-F, firm nib and it seems to be smooth for a nib that size. Great info. Thank you!! Am I close on age???

So, what's your point?

(Mine is a flexible F.)

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      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
    • amk
      That looks pretty good. You might want to add wood as a material (with its weakness of staining) and mention urushi. And under ergonomic considerations, the size of section (slender pens vs chunky pens), and shape of section, and 'disturbances' such as the Lamy 2000 'ears' and Pilot Capless clip getting in the way might be worth mentioning. Also possibly a general section on things you can do yourself with a bit of care, with a bit of practice, and things that are strictly "don't try this a
    • Detman101
      Hahaha...this is brilliantly funny! 🤣 I did not know about this section of the site...what gem!  
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