Jump to content
Classifieds is broken, please do not submit any new ads ×

Vacumatic Jewel Replacement


Scrawler
 Share

Recommended Posts

I am not sure if this should be here or in the Repair Q&A forum.

 

I have a fairly tatty (gouged and worn) 1935 lock down filler vacumatic. It is basically black with strong ambering and some transparency. It is missing the jewel on its blind cap. I have a cap jewel from a 1946 vac that was destroyed by glue and a hacksaw. That cap jewel is just about the right size and screws into the blind cap. It is however a little over 1MM too long.

 

Before I make a mistake I will regret, I was wondering if anyone had advice on shrinking a black plastic jewel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Ron Z

    2

  • OcalaFlGuy

    1

  • sherbie

    1

  • Scrawler

    2

Top Posters In This Topic

I,m sure Ron or one of the many repair experts will chime in soon enough, but why not just file away the 1 mm excess - i presume from the bottom of the screw threads?

Edited by sherbie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sherbie is right. If you can screw the jewel into the blind cap and it fits the tassie as it should but the stem is too long, you should file it shorter. Anything attempt to "shrink" the material will damage the rest of the jewel. A bit tricky to do because it's tough to hold these little things and cut or file them without damaging the threads.

 

Blind cap jewel stems usually are short, but even so you may not need to shorten it. Try screwing it in first and see if it hits or pushes the plunger down before shortening it. If it doesn't interfere with the plunger, leave it as it is.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the only thing wrong is that the threaded part is too long. I figured I could file it or grind it off with a dremel. But as I do not know what they are made of, I was wondering if it could be cut through with a hot wire or something. I was trying to avoid plastic dust. It looks like I will just have to set the whole thing in wax ( to hold it, because it is small) and just file it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As thin as those threads have to be, and as thin as the stem is, I'd be inclined to try and put a stout single edge razor blade at the desired thread and use the blade to roll the stem around cutting it,

 

Seems about as exact as I can come up with.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Most Contributions

    1. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      31090
    2. jar
      jar
      26101
    3. wimg
      wimg
      25602
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Splat
      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
    • amk
      That looks pretty good. You might want to add wood as a material (with its weakness of staining) and mention urushi. And under ergonomic considerations, the size of section (slender pens vs chunky pens), and shape of section, and 'disturbances' such as the Lamy 2000 'ears' and Pilot Capless clip getting in the way might be worth mentioning. Also possibly a general section on things you can do yourself with a bit of care, with a bit of practice, and things that are strictly "don't try this a
    • Detman101
      Hahaha...this is brilliantly funny! 🤣 I did not know about this section of the site...what gem!  
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files

  • Today's Birthdays

    1. abdcolvinian
      abdcolvinian
      (29 years old)
    2. AndyN
      AndyN
      (59 years old)
    3. andyr7
      andyr7
      (70 years old)
    4. barefeetz
      barefeetz
    5. berryns
      berryns
      (38 years old)





×
×
  • Create New...