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Visconti Skeletons On Auctions


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There are currently 3 ebay auctions for the Visconti skeleton pens. I am sharing the links here so that people who are interested can participate. These pens, especially the gold+titanium are so rare to find. As for myself, I will not bid on these auctions because I am not a fan of the skeleton design.






I just noticed that the silver skeleton is c/c while the other two are vacuum fillers. Why would such an expensive visconti pen be a c/c filler?

Edited by kauloltran
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The original non LE skeletons in black, orange & clear demo are narrower, smaller c/c fillers with awesome large nibs. Visconti was still perfecting the piston fillers & these were actually the more reliable pen in their day, which is why I bought two. There were matching ballpoints as well.

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The gold version had reached 395 usd bid, one day left. The seller has canceled the auction (maybe unsatisfied with the results?). Let's see whether he cancels the other two or not.

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The cc fillers had 14k nibs while the 18ks went in LEs back in the day. They have a lovely "soft" feel while the 18k feels stiff in comparison. The smaller pens were F, M, & B nibs exclusively while the 18k included stubs & an EF for a short while.

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Outcome: Gold version: canceled. Silver version: sold for 390 usd. Titanium version: sold for 715 usd.

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That is quite a steal for the silver one :)


I'm not really into the design myself as well, but thanks again for providing the details kauloltran, hope someone from here bought it :)

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    • A Smug Dill
      @Texas42 Thank you. I myself have recently had the experience of cleaning out a Wing Sung 699, in which the iron-gall ink has been sitting for six months. No damage to the metal piston rod (whereas, in a Wing Sung 3013 vacuum-filler, it would have been corroded, turned green, and contaminated the ink in mere weeks), but there was a ring of colour at the far end of the barrel that wouldn't budge, and I found it impossible to unscrew the filling mechanism to clean the interior wall of the ink rese
    • Texas42
      Dang. You are a great friend!   One comment as a relative newcomer would be within the cleaning section: issues/differences in cleaning vacuum filler, piston filler in addition to cartridge/converter. I just cleaned out my Pilot 823 and while it wasn't particularly difficult I was a little paranoid about the drops of water that I could not get out. Perhaps this is something you are already including.   Anyway, great project and very thoughtful of you. I know it's a project fo
    • Splat
      Ah Ruaidhri ya wee heid banger, you do indeed have an Irishman’s way wid dose words now. I’ll be from outer Aberdeenshire up in the blizzard riven braes of the Grampians.  Amateur medicine and surgery is it? Well what noble aspirations you do possess, we need to encourage such noble experimentations.  I pondered on leaving my own battered shell to science, but, until I read your pearls of wisdom and lament, I had comedown on the side of leaving my body to Findus frozen foods.  However, your rema
    • austollie
      Hi Smug Dill,   Nice project.  If it were me, I'd cover stuff like: - nib types available, i.e. styles, materials (SS vs gold), flex vs nails; - filling systems (I love the "thingie" comment) and how once can use them in practice (e.g. fill cartridges with a syringe); - pen body materials and their consequences (pen not balanced of too heavy and big for the hand); - and, whilst you've made it clear that you do not like vintage pens, a discussion of these beyond "I d
    • A Smug Dill
      Thanks for your input! Yes, not putting wood in the list of body materials warranting a mention was an oversight. I love pens with wooden bodies, but my main concern, or chagrin, is that I have not come across a wooden-bodied pen with a wooden cap that seals well. Actually, there is one, but it isn't really wood per se: the Pilot Custom Kaede's maple body is resin impregnated. All other wooden pens I have can dry out while capped and undisturbed; that includes several Platinum #3776 models.
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