Can These Phileas Nibs Be Repaired?

[Ernst Bitterman]

Corrosion in pens mainly comes about from letting ink dry in them; the concentration of hostile elements increases, and steels which resist corrosion fairly well start to pit under the more vigorous attack. That's why you usually see it (if you see it) under the section. Don't leave inks stand in pens for long periods, and make sure to flush thoroughly when putting them away.

[terminal]

I picked up a dropped Phileas on eBay and so I contacted Rubbermaid and got a replacement for the whole section and nib for $28. Shipping was a lot though... I can't quite remember how much now.

[JonSzanto]

Corrosion in pens mainly comes about from letting ink dry in them; the concentration of hostile elements increases, and steels which resist corrosion fairly well start to pit under the more vigorous attack. That's why you usually see it (if you see it) under the section. Don't leave inks stand in pens for long periods, and make sure to flush thoroughly when putting them away.

 

These are wise words from Ernst. In a number of the Phileas I've picked up over the last couple of years, it was with dedicated looking that I *did* find some pitting, and it was usually just coming out from under the section. I think Mr. B is spot on: concentrated ink is the culprit, and these are probably pens that had sat in someone's desk drawer, never having been cleaned. I found a Waterman Laureat with a similar nib that was so corroded that there were actually areas along the side of the nib, as you approached the tip, where it had indentations (like a rocky coastline) where the metal was missing.

 

Corrosion happens (slightly less poetic than Neil Young's "Rust Never Sleeps").

[TwelveDrawings]

I wonder if someone with a chemistry background could recommend a final rinse for an emptied pen besides water (which can induce corrosion). I'm wondering about magical elixers (alcohol, lighter fluid, distilled water, etc.?). I am not recommending these, but using them as examples of a hopefully inert final rinse that would leave no deposits.

[JonSzanto]

Most all inks will be cleaned off with simply water, or maybe with just a drop or so of dish-washing liquid, and some people favor ammonia, just a few drops added to the water. It isn't that it is hard to wind up with a clean pen, that is actually easy to do. It is the case that a lot of people simply don't clean the pens before they end up being... not used.

[Left FPN]

A steel Laureat nib showing 'hidden' corrosion,

 

[JonSzanto]

Well done, Force. That was roughly (and I use that term purposely!) my experience, except it made it to the front of the nib.

[Left FPN]

It gets worse,

 

[ashokdad]

Is the nib-feed combination friction fit and can they (together) be pulled straight out of section? My attempts so far have been unsuccessful and other threads quote Richard Binder suggesting that the nib/fees combo cannot be removed from section.

[Left FPN]

Richard is WRONG

 

They can be pulled out after a soaking in water to lubricate the parts. It can be done purely by hand but I have a small sketch to show how to rig it with a washer and pliers....now where is it.

 

Here tis, post #378

Edited September 5, 2014 by Force

[pajaro]

Richard is WRONG

 

They can be pulled out after a soaking in water to lubricate the parts. It can be done purely by hand but I have a small sketch to show how to rig it with a washer and pliers....now where is it.

 

Here tis, post #378

 

I have used this method and successfully pulled a Phileas nib. It works.