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Writing Slope Dilema


my63

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One thing I have learned messing about with these boxes is mistakes happen.

I adapted a box for Esterbex earlier this year the original plan was to fit three trays into the box one tray was to hold oversize pens and the other two normal size pens.

To cut a long story short I managed to fit three trays in the box however when I sent the box to Esterbex's friend who had some oversize pens we found out that the oversize pens did not fit.

So I had the box returned to me and made new trays however I was only able to fit two trays into the box I had forgotten how difficult velvet is to work with.

So here is how I have done it

 

My starting point is a sheet of card with the dowels stuck to it as you can see from the picture this was not the first attempt I will explain why as I go along

The end dowels had been set in by 2 mm to allow for the final stage

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/9195176342_5e0b64f639_z.jpg
IMG_3974_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

To get an idea of the size of the card required I laid the velvet into the tray and up the sides measuring the distance between the sides which gave me the measurement for the card

This was where my previous error had occurred I had cut the card to the size of the tray and had not allowed for the thickness of the material. Rip it off and start again.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7291/9192387581_181a69c7da_z.jpg
IMG_3978 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I laid the card on a flat board and rubbed it over with a damp cloth I did not wet the card too much

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/9195185464_dfd44e849e_z.jpg
IMG_3980 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I used an extra piece of dowel to help to form the card to the shape of the dowels I let the card dry.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/9192406079_42e21d14e2_z.jpg
IMG_3990_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

I cut a piece of velvet larger than required and rolled it around a long piece of dowel making sure to have it the right way around I used a spray adhesive rather than pva as the pva soaks through the venvet

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/9195203078_5061f14803_z.jpg
IMG_3992_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I rolled the velvet across the card pressing down firmly allowing it to form into the shape of the card.

The final stage was to turn the card over and fold the edges over, the right and left ends were folded over the ends of the final dowels.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/9192412489_e95eb1b2ed_z.jpg
IMG_3994_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

People have often said that I make things look easy well it is not always easy and I make mistakes but I do put them right and I hope that by showing my mistakes others may learn from them as I have.

I will be doing a final polish tomorrow and will post the final pictures before the box is posted.

 

Thanks for watching

 

Michael

 

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Hi Skoff

Are you trying to cut the hole before you stick the veneer down?

Have you tried masking tape around the edges of the cut?

Make a cardboard template of the top cut the hole in the cardboard then put it on the veneer and cut it out on a flat surface if you try to cut it over a hole it will split.

I stick the veneer down and then use my proxxon multi tool to grind out the excess very carefully.

I don't fill anything with French polish and sawdust always seems too light so I now chop up pieces of veneer especially if it is burr veneer.

 

I hope this helps

 

Regards

Michael

Yes, my procedure is cut a bit of paper the same shape as the escutcheon, lightly stick it to the escutcheon, put a bit of sticky tape on top then put the veneer in place. When I pick it up the paper is stuck to the veneer in the correct place. I then use that as a template to cut out the shape on a cutting mat. I actually had a bit more success cutting the hole a bit small and trimming it when I had stuck the veneer down.

 

The masking tape sounds like a good idea. I don't have a proxon multi-tool, so will need to work carefully with my scalpel. I've just ordered some new blades so I will see how I get on with them.

 

When you cut out filler pieces of veneer do you find that the joins are easily concealed? I only have some very small gaps on the top and front, but I did apply a larger piece on the back as my veneer wasn't long enough, and that's visible up close, though it doesn't have any finish applied to it yet. I'm hoping it will blend in, the veneer pattern is a pretty good match.

 

On another note, I'm enjoying seeing the pen tray come together above, I might do something similar for my slope. From the picture it looks like you are using full dowels to make the ridges not halves as I would have expected, how do you stop them from moving about?

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Hi Skoff

They are full dowels when I used plywood as the base I used mitre fast since I started using card I use PVA but only a little You don't want to soak the card.

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9208120076_6dae7b0585_z.jpg
IMG_4038_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

If you are using a knife in a small area use a piercing motion rather than a cutting motion.

 

Regards

 

Michael

 

Burr veneer is very forgiving I keep off cuts in plastic bags when I need to fill gaps I chop it up into really small pieces with a chisel bits fly all over so watch your eyes.

I suppose something like a pepper or coffee grinder would be great.

If you have small holes I use a gasket punch set and punch a circular hole around the damage and then do the same on a good piece of veneer and you have a plug for the hole.

 

With regard to the edges could you post a picture burr often splits and cracks around the edges.

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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I have spent a little time today doing final fitting on the box for esterbex I had a few problems the pictures I took the box outside as we are having summer weather here TODAY :) could be winter tomorrow :lticaptd: it is strange to see people with sunburnt faces wearing overcoats.

 

This is the oversize tray in red velvet and oak

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/9216872025_0ed32b9e91_z.jpg
IMG_4074_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7451/9219642910_67fc5680d8_z.jpg
IMG_4073_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Hopefully the next pictures will be from the new owner.

 

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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My NESSR charity box has also moved forward today I have finished the brass escutcheon for the top.

I make these myself and follow what was there so if the original was symmetrical them mine will also be. However more often than not they aren't

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/9216873051_a94a918248_z.jpg
IMG_4081_2 by my0771, on Flickr

 

So here it is as you can see part of the veneer has chipped off and I have stuck it back in

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3783/9219646984_cc316825c5_z.jpg
IMG_4083_2 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I will be filling these gaps over the next few days so more pictures will follow.

 

Thanks for looking

Michael

 

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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I have started to fill the gaps around the escutcheon on the lid

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3679/9221048473_3d34129923_z.jpg
IMG_4090_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I used a very sharp pair of dressmaking scissors to cut a very thin strip of veneer trial and error here to get the size right.

The escutcheon is not fixed in place yet I will leave it there until the glue dries.

I remove the escutcheon before sanding as it tends to alter the colour of the wood.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/9223827006_3f57d09156_z.jpg
IMG_4092_2 by my0771, on Flickr

 

This is the other side these gaps are about 1 to 1.5 mm wide I know they look huge in the pictures.

 

This veneer is not very easy to work with it is cracking and chipping every time I touch it I have applied some wax to soften it a little but it is still chipping.

 

This picture shows the front of the box which is also chipping this is pretty common and although I wanted the grain of the veneer to continue over the front of the box I will be applying some thin strips of wood around the outer edge of the box lid.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/9221054481_432cde2d23_z.jpg
IMG_4095_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

This strip is the closest colour match I will finish the escutcheon first and then apply the edge pieces.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3720/9223840866_0152c2677e_z.jpg
IMG_4103_1 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Hi Skoff

I thought I thought the information might be useful for you.

I might try to repair the front edge as I want the grain to continue over the edge.

I think I will need one of those arm things with a magnifying glass and a light on it to see all of the small pieces.

This box has to be finished this week as NESSR are having a big fundraising event at the weekend.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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You do make the work look easy, Michael, but we can all see how painstaking and sometimes frustrating it must be. I do hope you still feel that the end results are still worth the hassle; I sure enjoy seeing them!

 

Holly

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Hole filling take forever I had filled this hole before but was not happy with the veneer match so I cut it out with a craft knife.

In this picture you can see the odd shaped hole and the veneer I plan to fill it with. I have cut out a notch in the patch to match the shape of the hole.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3752/9240434904_2397bfe090_z.jpg
IMG_4118 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once I am happy with the dry fit and the patch fits inside the hole, I fill the hole with glue so it comes out all around when the patch is placed in the hole.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3734/9237657429_92d87e3eea_z.jpg
IMG_4119 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Once in the hole I hold it down with my finger and break off the excess veneer then leave it to dry for a bit.

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3716/9237659169_fb8f54dc9a_z.jpg
IMG_4120 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Followed by some sanding the magnification via the camera is pretty high this patch is quite hard to see with the naked eye.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7371/9241214890_1479e65e5e_z.jpg
IMG_4135 by my0771, on Flickr

 

This gap is caused by too much sanding on the edge of the veneer I have cut a thin strip with scissors

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7428/9240442934_1035f80f97_z.jpg
IMG_4123 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Really I only want to fill the area with the veneer missing but I have found that if you stick a flat piece over the gap almost the correct size when you sand it it fits

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5328/9240446838_80754a3d80_z.jpg
IMG_4126 by my0771, on Flickr

 

And so the process will continue it is time consuming and boring but has to be done.

The alternative is to take a piece of edge banding and sand the corner of the box to 45 degrees stick the edge banding on and then sand it flush.

 

I have also been preparing the leather skiver and the writing leaves.

 

I extended the lines with masking tape then cut the leather using a craft knife

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3690/9238439037_8441552404_z.jpg
IMG_4138 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Then fixed one end with tape checked the position and added glue I may have jumped the gun here as I still need to apply the veneer to the edges.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/9238442507_8ae9a71a6d_z.jpg
IMG_4140 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Anyway it is stuck now

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2884/9241229554_3f1a29431c_z.jpg
IMG_4144 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

 

 

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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I spent a few hours yesterday repairing the veneer on the front edge of the NESSR charity box.

I know I am giving the box away but I still need to make something I am happy with.

Yesterdays work was removed this morning

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3825/9244749875_ea7cd7d1b0_z.jpg
IMG_4150 by my0771, on Flickr

 

As I handled the box this morning small pieces were breaking off only the front edge was chipping where it was walnut to walnut I had over sanded the edge and made the veneer very thin

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/9244748025_75910cf716_z.jpg
IMG_4148 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5522/9247529810_90d737844d_z.jpg
IMG_4149 by my0771, on Flickr

 

In todays light the edging strip I have is too redish so I will go and get more.

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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After sanding all four edges at a 45 degree angle and purchasing some lighter edging strip.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/9248110956_1459c8dd2b_z.jpg
IMG_4153 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2890/9248115154_50199e78ec_z.jpg
IMG_4157 by my0771, on Flickr

 

If anyone is planning on trying this then do not forget the 45 degrees the mitres on the corners need to be cut whilst the strip is at 45 degrees or they wont work.

 

Once the glue has started to harden on the inside I will start sanding if the outside of the glue is still a little soft the sawdust will stick to it and fill any small holes.

 

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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The rest of the afternoon has been spent sanding the newly applied edge banding.

 

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/9247065409_67b50babce_z.jpg
IMG_4177 by my0771, on Flickr

 

 

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3729/9249832614_c9526e97f8_z.jpg
IMG_4166 by my0771, on Flickr

 

There is a line around the edge of the banding it will fade (I hope) as the wax builds up.

 

I think the edges look better now and there is no chance of them chipping again

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5343/9249843506_e68f82beb6_z.jpg
IMG_4173 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Thanks for looking

 

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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Michael, you are truly a magician! Thank you so much for showing us the painstaking work, which is simply unbelievable.

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y331/fuchsiaprincess/Fuchsiaprincess_0001.jpg http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2010/036/2/2/Narnia_Flag_by_Narnia14.gif

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Thanks very much for your kind words it means a lot to me.

 

When last we looked at the inside I had cut the leather for the skiver (writing surface) I decided it would be a good idea to fix this in place at that time :wallbash: it was not a good idea the leather forms the hinge that allows the leaves to operate.

As I had not stuck the veneer onto the edges of the leaves I made it very difficult to fix them in place it is clear that I still have much to learn.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7443/9267537573_496e73ee64_z.jpg
IMG_4190 by my0771, on Flickr

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7372/9270322578_d9c7a65dbf_z.jpg
IMG_4192 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Unfortunately I have had some other commitments and do not think I will be able to finish this box for the event tomorrow as with all of my boxes it must be right when it leaves here and will not leave until it is as good as I can get it.

Thanks for looking

Michael

For more details on my current projects please visit my blog.

 

https://my63leather.wixsite.com/my63

 

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I've given the hinges idea serious thought, and somehow, I don't see it working on my box. The wood we're using for the writing-leaves is just too thin to support screws and nails. So I'm going to use extra fabric to reinforce the joints, instead.

 

I've started measuring and cutting the fabric today. I've just finished the top part, now for the underside...

Edited by Shangas

http://www.throughouthistory.com/ - My Blog on History & Antiques

 

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Good work everybody... Time for an update from me.

 

All the big bits of veneer are on the box, just tidy ups and fill-ins to do. I have put the brass work on and got the box together. Next step is to sand it down in prep for the French Polish. I've got the wooden flaps done with veneer, so they are going on soon.

 

I have used contrasting rosewood for the flap surrounds, and as you will see from the photos I have put two strips on the top of the box. I didn't have a big enough piece of walnut for the whole top so I thought I'd add a bit more inlay and the contrasting wood as a bit of a feature.

 

Still lots of work to do, but the box is starting to show its potential - I just hope I don't ruin it when I do the French Polish!!

 

Now for the pics:

 

First a reminder of the box when I got it:

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1427_zpsbb86c3a9.jpg

 

Now this is where I am up to (it should darken up quite a bit when it is polished)

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1461_zps76bf05a5.jpg

 

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1469_zpsbc5f6782.jpg

 

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t363/skoff13/smllDSC_1466_zpsf5f1551e.jpg

 

Thanks again to all of the contributors to this thread, and especially Michael for helping me solve my head scratching moments - I'm sure there will be more...

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Oh my, to just everything in this thread! I thank you Michael and all the others for sharing your work and showing how it goes along with problems and then solutions - it is very engaging and inspiring. :)

 

I have recently purchased a writing box and it is in a bit more, cough challenging cough a condition than I had realized and will need some repair. Is it all right if I post about it in this thread? Or is there another place I should do that? As you can see, this is my very first post and I want to get off on the right foot!

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I've tested the method which I intend to use to hold my writing-leaves and fabric surfacing together, and I'm fairly convinced that, applied correctly, at least, it should work wonderfully, even without hinges. It just requires some finessing, measuring and cutting, and then I can start the fiddly process of applying the glue and the fabric to the box.

 

Once that's done, comes the next step - fixing the lock.

http://www.throughouthistory.com/ - My Blog on History & Antiques

 

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